I did ask Mark about removing the 2 screws that hold the box the unit comes in and using those screws to attach a steel plate to so I could then attach the plate to the back of the battery tray and hang it off there. He said it would be just fine doing that.
Too much work if you ask me. Under the strap has proved to be an excellent location. Mine hasn't moved a mm in all those years, in spite of numerous bumpy roads all over Europe. Also this location is vibration free, because of the six rubbers in the battery cage, meant to shield the battery from vibes. Moreover, the original wires in the harness can easily be disconnected and connected as the original male and female connectors are so nearby. All in all, the location couldn't be better and it's very tidy too, allowing the wires to be as short as possible.
Just the other day I have finished another of my homebuilt transistor ignition modules. This time I have chosen a bigger box as I found out that behind the RH sidepanel there's ample space, much more than you'd expect. This bigger box will allow fitting the 630VDC capacitors instead of the smaller 400V ones I used in the previous much smaller box. Also in this new module I use the BU931P power transistors instead of the old TIP 162 which seem no longer available. This new box will probably go on my CB500 and the old unit, still working flawlessly, will be donated to a friend's Yamaha XS650.
The reason is that:
a) I have already transplanted the
Honda colour wires from my old box to the new one, so for the
old module I will try to find the right colour wires that will match the
Yamaha colour code.
b) More important: the Yamaha's OEM capacitors are, unlike our Honda ones, real near the coils, so I can easily have them maintained
them and by doing so, I won't need capacitors
at all anymore in my original box and so the problem of not enough room for the big 630VDC capacitors is elegantly circumvented.
Now please have a look at the wires if you will. Obviously the yellow and blue
males will be connected to the original
females coming from the resp. coils
NEG hanging down. The yellow and blue
females will be hanging down to be connected to the original males coming up from their resp. breakerpoints.
Obviously the
green wire will be connected to the nearby battery's
NEG terminal. The
black wire obviously still needs extension to be connected to one of the coils
POS side, so when the kill switch is in OFF the ignition unit will also be switched off.
What I am
not satisfied with, is the two short
black and the two short
green wires exiting the box which - for the moment - are joined in one side of a 'kroonsteentje' (don't know the word in English). Now I have used
kroonsteentjes before with success. The ones needed to extend the wires to the rear indicators, when I fitted a luggage carrier in 1980 (!) have never caused a problem and are still there. But
here, at my ignition box, I'd welcome a solution that looks somewhat nicer. What kind of connector can I use to replace the two '
kroonsteentjes'?