Hello from Aberdeenshire

[Trigger]

Thanks for the well wishes folks

Post a pic of the underside of the seat, it sounds like a copy and they are known not to sit properly. It may be possible however, if it is a copy, to alter it so it sits on the frame better.

Yeah its a copy, was included with the bike. Was tough to get it to even tilt up. Here's what it looks like atm, you can see it sits high on the latch side, in fact it doesn't even rest on the rubbers.
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Prefer the 350 to the 750 myself. Personal choice.

I prefer the 350 too, as things stand! It goes, stops and turns properly. I'll re-evaluate once the 750 does those things too

Welcome aboard! The 350 looks nice! What is the exhaust link pipe in the 750...Looks like rubber tubing ?

I'm not sure tbh, just seems like creased metal tubing, painted a strange finish. Needless to say I'm not keen on the exhaust as a whole, I think I'll probably end up with a Delkevic one, as I haven't seen any others similarly priced. I'd of course love a proper 4 into 4 set, but I can't see myself spending 1k+ on one!


Lastly, for now - steering head bearings. I'm seeing different kits come with different spacers/washers, and wondering if there is a "known good" set out there, for a k3?

That looks like a DSS after market seat. Some years ago they were selling them with the rubbers too long. You need to measure the depth of the rubbers . 

[Trigger]

The Two rubbers at the front should be 25mm, the rear three should be 10mm. I did find one of the rear ones that DSS used to fit and it was 17mm ( last Picture ). Check this before even thinking of changing the seat pan 



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[Oddjob]

Personally I'd try and get the copy seat to fit correctly first. Remove the seat lock plunger, does it sit right now? If not remove the rear rubber, try again, keep doing that, removing stuff until it looks right. Refit the seat lock plunger and check to see if it still sits right, if it does it's the rubbers clearly. If nothing works it's the shape of the copy pan causing the problem. You could try getting some plasticine when the rubbers are removed and settling the seat so it looks right, measuring the thickness of the plasticine and altering the rubbers to suit. It should be fixable, unless the seat pan is made wrong. In which case go down the route I described above. 

Just doing my seat pan for the 500 as we speak, altering stuff so it fits better and trying to solve problems I've found over the years.

[Trigger]

Nothing aftermarket seat pans from DSS, it is a well known fact that it was the rubbers. If you find the rubbers too thick and you have just bought the seat from Dave Sliver, contact them and they will send you the correct size rubbers 

[Billd]

Welcome Gary, I'm new here as well but I can tell you................a good group to be associated with!

[garyjpaterson]

Now thats embarrassing - the seat fits fine. Turns out it just needs a good slam! I didn't realise there were 2 catches on the plunger, after the first click i thought that was it, and tbf it clearly takes a good bit of force to get to the second as it held my weight before. I did loosen it off and align it a little better, but it still needs a good push to get that second click. All nice and level now, and all the rubbers sit nicely on the frame

[Johnny4428]

Nice one Gary, yes you want it tight but not awkward to close. Doesn’t need to be with someone’s rear end on it.😜

[Trigger]

Now thats embarrassing - the seat fits fine. Turns out it just needs a good slam! I didn't realise there were 2 catches on the plunger, after the first click i thought that was it, and tbf it clearly takes a good bit of force to get to the second as it held my weight before. I did loosen it off and align it a little better, but it still needs a good push to get that second click. All nice and level now, and all the rubbers sit nicely on the frame

Glad you have that sorted. That is why there are two notches on the plunger. These can be adjusted with a couple of spanners