Carbs Install

[Martin6]

Hi Martin! You are certainly being tested to the limit there!😡😡. Having done a couple of these fitted new spring and button as well as general cleaning and refurbishment. I’m finding it difficult to visualise what is going on there. I’m quite sure if it’s fitted correctly and the spring is pushing the button out again it should disconnect the circuit. Double check against photos sent with switch gear internals to ensure proper assembly. It can be a little fiddly to put together, but I’m sure you don’t need any glue unless there’s something broken. Sorry! If this isn’t that helpful, but good luck anyway.

Hi, thanks for your reply. Yes, the spring is pushing the button back out.

It is difficult to explain in writing: the spindle in the button goes through a hole in the 'live' tab. The spring around that spindle pushes against the live tab. By 'live tab' I mean the right angled piece of copper that has the black wire soldered to the top and a hole for the button pin to pass through. The action of the spring against the live tab is enough to force that tab against the RY contact, so it is closing the circuit, whether the button is pushed or not. I think the white nylon / plastic piece that screws the live tab to the switchgear housing, should hold the live tab firmly, so it doesn't move. Not the case on mine.

[Martin6]

If all else fails https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185407260951

Thanks. Unfortunately, the K6 also has the lights switch on this RHS (the P/H slider).

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If all else fails https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185407260951

Thanks. Unfortunately, the K6 also has the lights switch on this RHS (the P/H slider).

#
So its this one just in case.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184159105630?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D247414%26meid%3D11c778b6b451483cad2b1e56e37d375a%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D294090172332%26itm%3D184159105630%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV4V5V6ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecall&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A18415910563011c778b6b451483cad2b1e56e37d375a%7Cenc%3AAQAHAAABYBEC%252B8HimpTF6XPanG8lCeF3G6jifrewDlLoKJMPz0RnJH8s%252BUBlIo2cSQSdgSGvSW%252BiypWzATNrgsi2agxJDshTUcICtN84koFIxBjyT3J0Yv2cJO9SxJpCd6oLiUW1WFpLF3ZtVHQyxywf3rDdRkKNWEEBcurfD3jE2Tlfu7RbjZKX%252BgX%252FevqzJ97KPLwVqmhsRrMSTOvtjBZbvNmisHdOTXmxNv%252BCAJ4JJTFyR0P%252B%252FSqOMdsJooTa5p%252FV%252Bf2YEv0oNUwYpxQhRFZTjU3aVWEDOHt%252B0BXNtvHBzkyIdmCvDH6NBIR3Z1sQduvdSIUyVK1XJhUb91bLPVXu5%252BbyUMia4eBxQPfflZ8XORAxWVkMj%252FD5Uo5KRw4QMJFrP4X2NX70M%252B79Ze%252B4ia1N3L1RGKmCEVP64vz2z%252B8fl7zUJerxUoPmD7irtknkzDKgHZdUsIgEjJzvSwjMocyX8SCLjn8%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675

[Martin6]

If all else fails https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185407260951

Thanks. Unfortunately, the K6 also has the lights switch on this RHS (the P/H slider).

#
So its this one just in case.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184159105630?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D247414%26meid%3D11c778b6b451483cad2b1e56e37d375a%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D294090172332%26itm%3D184159105630%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV4V5V6ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecall&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A18415910563011c778b6b451483cad2b1e56e37d375a%7Cenc%3AAQAHAAABYBEC%252B8HimpTF6XPanG8lCeF3G6jifrewDlLoKJMPz0RnJH8s%252BUBlIo2cSQSdgSGvSW%252BiypWzATNrgsi2agxJDshTUcICtN84koFIxBjyT3J0Yv2cJO9SxJpCd6oLiUW1WFpLF3ZtVHQyxywf3rDdRkKNWEEBcurfD3jE2Tlfu7RbjZKX%252BgX%252FevqzJ97KPLwVqmhsRrMSTOvtjBZbvNmisHdOTXmxNv%252BCAJ4JJTFyR0P%252B%252FSqOMdsJooTa5p%252FV%252Bf2YEv0oNUwYpxQhRFZTjU3aVWEDOHt%252B0BXNtvHBzkyIdmCvDH6NBIR3Z1sQduvdSIUyVK1XJhUb91bLPVXu5%252BbyUMia4eBxQPfflZ8XORAxWVkMj%252FD5Uo5KRw4QMJFrP4X2NX70M%252B79Ze%252B4ia1N3L1RGKmCEVP64vz2z%252B8fl7zUJerxUoPmD7irtknkzDKgHZdUsIgEjJzvSwjMocyX8SCLjn8%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675

I owe you a pint! Switch ordered.
I hate to concede defeat, but 2 1/2 days on that bl***y switch is enough. Long lead time for delivery, but I have a back wheel to build anyway.

Thank you again Ted and thank you to everyone who has pitched in.

Martin

[Oddjob]

That's a copy switch Martin, in case you didn't know.
 
How can you tell? Very easily. The original switch doesn't have the dot coloured in red next to the P and H, the copy does. I don't think the quality matches the original Honda switches but it does the job and looks the part. If you want the throttle control system just drill the small lug on the bottom between the cable outlets 4mm, tap out to 5mm and fit the sleeper ramp inside the switch and the thumb screw and spring on the outside, I have them all NOS if you're interested. Comes in very handy on the motorway, just wind it in till the throttle sticks and you can avoid all that wrist stress of keeping it open, you can still operate the throttle if needed, it's just a bit heavy until you wind it back out again.

I've just done my switch halves again last night at 3am, filling in all those little letters etc. I often wondered why Honda left some unpainted but filled in the others, I did them all on my 2 R/H switches, even went further and did the run and it's corresponding dot in green as I think that's appropriate, green for go and red for stop seems to make sense to me. Just need to clean up the overpainting and they are ready to reassemble.

[Oddjob]

Just had a thought Martin, if the R/H switch you have is going spare I'd be interested. I'm trying to get a collection of broken switches and see if I can get some complete ones out of them, a little work and they'll be better than new and back into the community again.

Do something like this. Have them ceramic coated, repaint the letters, restore the interior parts and contacts, repair any wires that need doing, re-sheath the wires and then offer them to owners of our bikes.

[Martin6]

Looks good.

The red dot by the P is there on my current ones. They are very faded, like the anodising had been sunbleached. I assumed they were original. Maybe in the past someone has painted in the dot. 

Bit disappointing if they are copies, the ebay ad stated NOS. Hopefully, they'll work fine.  🤞

As folk may have gathered, my bike is not concours! At this stage I just want to get it back on the road and some miles on it.

[Johnny4428]

Nice work on the switches there Ken! They are looking good!

[Martin6]

Just had a thought Martin, if the R/H switch you have is going spare I'd be interested. I'm trying to get a collection of broken switches and see if I can get some complete ones out of them, a little work and they'll be better than new and back into the community again.

Do something like this. Have them ceramic coated, repaint the letters, restore the interior parts and contacts, repair any wires that need doing, re-sheath the wires and then offer them to owners of our bikes.

Odd job, I'd be happy to do that. First I'd just like to check the ones that are coming, to make sure they work / I'm happy with them.  Do you also do this with other parts for these bikes?

[Oddjob]

I do it with almost everything I can. I like to see if I can reclaim stuff that would end up in the landfill otherwise.

The switch is 100% a copy, the wires are wrong for a start, Honda didn't use that colour bullet connector, plus they have over a hundred of them, no way there is still over 100 original switches out there, I doubt there is 100 NOS originals in the entire world never mind one supplier. That's one of the drawbacks in buying copies, they can get connectors wrong, wire colours wrong etc.

For instance, on the original switch wiring, which I have in front of me, there is a male brown/blue wire, can't see that on the pic, male yellow/red which is there, male black/red which is there, there are 3 male blacks  and there looks to be 4 on the pic, there is also a female black/white and that's missing as well. That's for the kill switch BTW.

Lots of switches these days have been repainted so it's no surprise to find your red dot is there, look at the CMS pic of an original switch, check the wiring, note the missing red dot. https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-england_model17121/swassy-statkill_35150377013/ Check out that price!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now the copy switch from the same supplier, he has 2 versions, this one gets the wires right but has the red dot, https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-england_model17121/swassy-statkill-non-oe_35150377023p/ this one also has the red dot but note he doesn't show the wiring, they look ok BUT he's hiding them behind the switch so you don't know if the female black/white is there, https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550f2-super-sport-550-four-1977-england_model17121/swassy-statkill_35150377013p/

Coming on Johnny, busy fixing the switches together as we speak.

[Oddjob]

Sorry Martin, just realised yours is a 750K6 and I've been posting links to the 550F2 switch, same switch, just longer wires.

K6 switch, https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750k6-four-england_model14383/switch-starter_35150341600/ looks to be the same 7 wires. Except they are shorter as yours go into the headlight and the 550F2 go under the tank so need to be longer. Oddly is does have the red dot. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295536686286?hash=item44cf5bf4ce:g:O9sAAOSwtCNePTcK&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4NJHm%2FISXriuA0Bw47xIdnukoYeTLBAFf8r807pD3RIwDTIIybRsIF0XWx6KjFwJ96HEW2GeM9e6RmUpuotpwc2gslndU0KrVVwePRkT928E0owFLJOD8L5cobh94WVJjHPaJMEeSE%2FEntZJWKxgOqZPQOk0Iyi569PKNtZCABQMWHU6yI8NedtauaDUBg6j%2Bngl3owaqn0QQkx9E6sAq1lrGpdmyl%2BpeDh0bCzUNupPfVT13YfP5L214AOQezK0ZcdqqwhLUY71hSODb2fruIJFDQNuCoNn3mo2BT2q6tRC%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR76KvM7iYQ

Check out that price!!!!!

[Martin6]

Thanks. Yes, a K6. I could always paint a black dot 

I'll be interested to see what connectors and wire colours arrive. Guess, if not clear, I may have to open up the kill/light switches to continuity check and label them up. I can x-ref against my current switch to help.

Hopefully, there's enough room inside the headlamp bowl to fit any extra length of wire!

[Oddjob]

I've just reassembled all 3 of my switches and 2 of them were R/H ones. I must say they were fairly easy to do and the starter button was pretty easy, it's just getting it fitted in the right order.

Just in case you feel like having another try I'll describe how it's done. First fit the horn button, after greasing the spring up really well so it doesn't rust in the future, the horn button has a flat side on the flange, this goes uppermost inside the switch, if you can read the TEC writing on the button from the outside it's in the right way. Next fit the yellow/red connector plate, this is shaped so there is a curve at the bottom, it slides into a recess in the switch housing, the next bit was slightly tricky but not even remotely hard, slide the white housing down into place whilst holding the horn button back with a small flat bladed screwdriver, you may have to pull the spring back a little, push it into place and secure with screw whilst holding the white box hard up against the wall of the housing, it has 2 flanges which push against the front wall. There should also be a shaped plate which screws into the housing which holds all the wires from the upper part of the switch in place inside the bottom part of the switch. I'll post a pic later today showing how it should look. That's it mate. Easy peasy. All I need to do on mine now is test all continuity when the switches operate and make sure they are no shorts, easy to do when you've unsoldered the kill switch plate, it's very close to the body when assembled. 

[Martin6]

Odd job,

Yes, I understand that, the issue I have is that the white plate you mention was separate from the copper live tab (what the black wire is soldered on to). So even when fully assembled, white housing screwed down, the pin of the button nicely through and sliding into contact with the yellow/Red plate, the copper live tab was just pushed against the Y/R plate by the button spring and starter remained on.

I must have assembled it half a dozen times on the bike, but when I took it off, I could see no way to stop the live plate from moving under the springs pressure into the Y/R plate. I assume that live plate should be firmly fixed in the white holder, so they were a single unit holding it firmly against the spring pressure. Mine had separated, broken. So that 50p part caused my problem!

[Martin6]

There have been two beneficial side effects of my nearly 3 days on the starter button:
1. Getting the headlamp off to release the switchgear wiring was the prompt to investigate the pilot light, which wasn't working. No bulb inside the mounting was the cause! New bulb fitted, should be good to go.
2. As I rotated the bars to ease the wiring through, brake fluid started oozing out of the m/c banjo. Why did I feel the urge to pull the brake lever to see if it was brake fluid! A 20 minute general wipe down and clean up followed. Luckily, it was only loose and I could feel the bolt crushing the washers home as I tightened it. So far fine after bleeding some air out. I'll keep an eye on it.

I did know some of the fixings were loose, one of the front mudguard stay bolts came adrift when I trailered the bike home, prompting some general checking (lower rear shock bolts were also loose). But I'd missed the brake line fittings. I'll check top to bottom again.

The joy of old machinery