Author Topic: Neutral Switch  (Read 406 times)

Offline Martin6

  • SOHC Expert
  • Posts: 282
    • View Profile
Neutral Switch
« on: April 29, 2023, 08:09:14 AM »
My neutral light stays on, when in gear. Slightly dimmer, but on.

The wire connection on the switch is fine (not touching anywhere it shouldn't) and the wire is in good condition up to the point it disappears up into the bike.

I removed the switch and cleaned it. If I earth the base of the body to the bike and press in the sprung bearing, the light goes out. So, I put it back into the bike and the original problem persists. :-\

Am I missing something?

Online Bryanj

  • Grogu
  • *
  • Posts: 10836
    • View Profile
Re: Neutral Switch
« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2023, 08:29:25 AM »
Its possible that the O ring is too thick and not letting the switch fit far enough into the case OR the switch itself is filling with oil.

New switches are still available, same in GL 1000 and some Honda marine stuff

Offline Martin6

  • SOHC Expert
  • Posts: 282
    • View Profile
Re: Neutral Switch
« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2023, 10:27:41 AM »
Its possible that the O ring is too thick and not letting the switch fit far enough into the case OR the switch itself is filling with oil.

New switches are still available, same in GL 1000 and some Honda marine stuff
Thanks. I'm hoping the switch is OK, as it works when removed. I did pump out some dark stuff that was lurking behind the bearing, when I cleaned the switch out (with brake cleaner). I'm hoping that was the issue.

The photo in the manual isn't very helpful. Does the o-ring sit inside the engine case, around the shaft of the switch, or is it outside the case, between the face of the switch and the face of the engine case? At the moment I have it outside the case and that seems to be holding the switch out a bit and the retaining bracket is on a bit of a slant. To me, that looks wrong and maybe I should have it inside the case, so the bottom of the switch has a good direct contact with the outside face of the engine case. It was dirty under there when I removed the switch, but I'm 'fairly' sure the o-ring was inside?
« Last Edit: April 29, 2023, 10:33:07 AM by Martin6 »

Offline Nurse Julie

  • 1977 CB550/4 Mongrel Brat. 1974 UK 500/4 K1. Honda CD250u.
  • Grogu
  • *
  • Posts: 8271
    • View Profile
Re: Neutral Switch
« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2023, 11:09:13 AM »
The o ring is 3mm thick and it sits in the case. Lube up the o'ring with red rubber grease and turn it in. Make sure it is in neutral and you can see the dimple in the selector shaft. Once in put the retaining tap on.
LINK TO MY EBAY PAGE. As many of you know already, I give 10% discount and do post at cost to forum members if you PM me direct.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/julies9731/m.html?item=165142672569&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2562

LINK TO MY CB400/4 ENGINE STRIP / ASSESSMENT AND REBUILD...NOW COMPLETE
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,14049.msg112691/topicseen.html#new

Online Johnny4428

  • SOHC Master
  • Posts: 2112
    • View Profile
Re: Neutral Switch
« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2023, 11:19:13 AM »
Just to add my tupence worth, I sure I’m right in saying the neutral switch holds the selector drum in correct position. If slightly out of line it would be difficult to fully engage switch.
1952 Cymoto on Triumph bicycle.
1961 Matchless G3
1974 Honda CB550K1. Running resto,
1978 Honda CB550K3.
1999 ST1100 Pan European 50th Anniversary.
1975,1980,1984,1986 Honda C90’s
1973 Honda CB750K3

Offline Skoti

  • SOHC Expert
  • Posts: 328
    • View Profile
Re: Neutral Switch
« Reply #5 on: April 29, 2023, 01:00:14 PM »
Its possible that the O ring is too thick and not letting the switch fit far enough into the case OR the switch itself is filling with oil.

New switches are still available, same in GL 1000 and some Honda marine stuff
Thanks. I'm hoping the switch is OK, as it works when removed. I did pump out some dark stuff that was lurking behind the bearing, when I cleaned the switch out (with brake cleaner). I'm hoping that was the issue.

The photo in the manual isn't very helpful. Does the o-ring sit inside the engine case, around the shaft of the switch, or is it outside the case, between the face of the switch and the face of the engine case? At the moment I have it outside the case and that seems to be holding the switch out a bit and the retaining bracket is on a bit of a slant. To me, that looks wrong and maybe I should have it inside the case, so the bottom of the switch has a good direct contact with the outside face of the engine case. It was dirty under there when I removed the switch, but I'm 'fairly' sure the o-ring was inside?

Had the same problem with my neutral light switch, cleaned it with brake cleaner and compressed air.
Black gunge came out, problem solved.
Motorcycling is Life, anything B4 or after is just waiting...


1976 Honda CB750F1

Offline Martin6

  • SOHC Expert
  • Posts: 282
    • View Profile
Re: Neutral Switch
« Reply #6 on: April 29, 2023, 02:11:04 PM »
Thanks all,

Got it back in, behaves exactly the same. Off the bike I could get the light on and off. So wiring from the switch must be fine. Once in, out of neutral the light is slightly dimmer, but on. I guess the switch is leaking back to earth. Time for a new switch.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal