Doms CB550F1 project

[Bryanj]

Advisable for new on kicstart shaft inside cases

[Oddjob]

No, I meant you can buy cheaper alternatives Dom, not reuse old ones. The ones on the gearbox shafts are special so need to be Honda ones, the rest of them should be ok to use copies. I'd certainly use a new one on the clutch basket for instance and on the kickstart shaft if removed. When you go to replace the primary damper rubbers you'll think you need to remove the 3 screws but IIRC it's just the circlip you need to remove to split it in half. Don't remove the screws unless you have to. Far too many fall out again afterwards.

[DomP]

No, I meant you can buy cheaper alternatives Dom, not reuse old ones. The ones on the gearbox shafts are special so need to be Honda ones, the rest of them should be ok to use copies. I'd certainly use a new one on the clutch basket for instance and on the kickstart shaft if removed. When you go to replace the primary damper rubbers you'll think you need to remove the 3 screws but IIRC it's just the circlip you need to remove to split it in half. Don't remove the screws unless you have to. Far too many fall out again afterwards.

Interesting you should say that Ken, I thought they needed removing too (they dont) so set about taking them out with a JIS screwdriver, they were already loose but the staking prevented them from fully undoing by themselves. I'll be making sure they are tight and staked when I put it all together. 

The dampers when removed were pretty hard.

[Oddjob]

When you fit the new rubbers you may think it's not going to go back together. A little silicon oil on them works wonders.

[DomP]

When you fit the new rubbers you may think it's not going to go back together. A little silicon oil on them works wonders.

Oh that's good then, there was a very small amount of play in it

[Oddjob]

Before or after the new rubbers Dom.

[DomP]

Before or after the new rubbers Dom.

With the old rubbers Ken, still waiting on my DS order due to a few backorder but my Cruizinimage pistons are on their way.

[DomP]

My plan is to prep the engine ready for paint this weekend except for the barrels as they'll be going off to Bryan for some work.  There's not much paint left on them, just a bit of black remnants from a previously bad paint job so a bit of nitromors and a bit of scotchbriting should sort it.  I was going to use carb cleaner as a final pre paint prep then Simoniz vht aluminium silver paint followed my a 'Millyard bake'

[DomP]

I have a question, has anyone on here any experience with straightening bent fins?  I've got a few which are out of sight and minor enough that they can be ignored but two on the cylinder head are top left and obvious.  I've watched a few videos of warming with MAPP gas and carefully tweaking back, do I dare risk it before painting or just accept them as battle scars?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Think of it as age related patina.👍

[Nurse Julie]

If you don't get the heat just right, the alloy easily snaps. Best leave be unless you're doing a concours engine renovation.

[DomP]

Ted and Julie, I think you're correct. Let's hope the temptation doesn't get the better of me!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

You will be well disgruntled if one snaps as NJ has warned you.

[K2-K6]

Agree if you're not confident, to leave it, as snapping a bit off will look worse.

If you waht to try something to feel what it moves like, an old / broken clutch lever of similar, clamp end in vice, put ring spanner on it and pull very slightly to tension load it, then heat with torch where you want it to bend, then you'll feel it yeald as the heat reaches critical point to let it move. No real increase in pressure, just as it comes in range you'll feel it start to soften enough so it moves easily.

Some use soap on surface to see it going brown as it approaches the right heat level too.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Using soap as a temperature indicator that takes me back to the 1960s.👍👍👍