Project CB350F

[magpie114]

Thanks for all your comments, much appreciated. I thought they were ok, but I had a slight nagging doubt. I'll replace #2 tho while I can.   

[Oddjob]

Can't remember what was recommended for removing old gaskets but might have been Acetone. I'm sure that will remind someone of what it actually was if I'm wrong. Sort of melts the gasket or maybe the bonding agent Honda used.

[magpie114]

I’ve just got some cellulose thinners to try. If that doesn’t work I’ll have a go with acetone.


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[Oddjob]

Might have been thinners TBH.

I do remember it as being something that dissolved stuff, like thinners does with paint and acetone with expanding foam

[Orcade-Ian]

When I did the head gaskets on my GL1200 Aspencade, I tried all kinds of stuff to remove the old gaskets - thinners,  acetone,  tar and glue remover and ended up with Hermetite gasket remover.  This worked very well but it still took a long time soaking and removing.  I have had Loctite gasket remover recommended to me recently but not bought any yet.

Ian

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Those cylinder base gaskets really do stick hard as both sides of the gasket are baked hard - I continually brushed thinners on mine  to try to make it soak in. I used a hard plastic scraper to lift an edge peice then soaked the new edge in thinners to eventually get small sections to lift. Sometimes an inch or more would come off, then only small sections. If you can rough up the gasket surface that seems to help the thinners soak in.

I did buy some gasket remover off e-bay but it was no better at removing gaskets despite what it said on the tin. I did mine over a period of time as it's boring work eventually reverting to using a loose Stanley knife blade held almost horizontal to the alloy surface to avoid it digging in. With a hand held blade it's easier not to press too hard as the dull end digs into your thumb.

[K2-K6]

If you get something like an old woodworking chisel, then grind the end completely flat-square- 90 degrees to give a no blade end. Then gently grind across the end (from one side to the other)  in very broad radius (something like dinner plate edge in size) then make sure you've no burr on the edges to ensure no snagging, you've now got a metal scraper that you can lay flat on the gasket surface so that it doesn't cut the surface, but will easily remove the gasket material as you push it.

If the description is too long winded, it should finish by looking like perhaps a two pence piece layed flat on a surface to give you orientation. 

Its not an unusual thing to make, but quite ordinary as a metal scraper than would be used in a toolroom for making things like surface plates by hand scraping. If you tip it up to any degree it'll cut the metal surface, but run it flat to gasket face and it'll take nothing off, just the gasket. 

Sounds cumbersome, but very effective in use.

[magpie114]

I'll try some gasket remover - either Hermatite or Loctite, whichever I can get first. I've been working on it much like Ted recommends, slowly and a small area at a time with a Stanley blade and yes I've got a very sore thumb!

The scraper sounds logical, I've got an old woodchisel I can sacrifice. I'll try that in combination with the remover.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

The aerosol gasket remover I used was called BONDLOC  "formulas that work" it spouts on the tin  -  trouble is it's Non-Chlorinated & Dichloromethan free - means useless.
It does stick to vertical surfaces though.

[K2-K6]

The aerosol gasket remover I used was called BONDLOC  "formulas that work" it spouts on the tin  -  trouble is it's Non-Chlorinated & Dichloromethan free - means useless.
It does stick to vertical surfaces though.

M E K pvc solvent, a useful and more potent cleaning agent is worthwhile trying 

Handy to keep some around for variety of task. Check first on plastics though as it'll dissolve some.

Also useful for cleaning gasket contact surfaces of castings etc prior to assembly as its a good degreasent.

[Bryanj]

Go to b&q and in the paint section they have plastic handled scrapers with replacable stanley knife blade for about £3

[Sesman]

The trouble with those scrapers is that a hamfisted user like myself repeatedly snags the aluminium. Put a sharp edge on credit card, preferably the wife’s. Warming old gaskets with a hot gun can be helpful….one of those paint stripping types.

[Moorey]

      Keep soaking them in petrol and scrape off as they soften. A pain in the arse of a job.

[magpie114]

Well progress has been much slower than I wanted but the frame, stands, brackets etc have now been powder coated and the swing arm phosphor bronze bushes from Julie fitted.

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The VIN plate was damaged and partially detached at the top when I got the bike but its straightened out reasonably well. The damage at the top is more noticeable in the photo.

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I know taper roller head bearings are popular but I had an unhappy time with them on my VFR400. I ended up fitting the stock Honda bearings which were perfect so I’m doing the same again.

Tomorrow I’m taking a pile of nuts and bolts to Able Platers in Livingstone who do small batch barrel zinc plating. They’re very near to a soda blasting company so I’m killing two birds with one stone and taking the cases along. However I’m unsure when I’ll be able to spray them as its far too cold in the shed and garage. Its very frosty at the moment and taking a lot of willpower to work in the garage!

I already have the engine and gearbox oil seals and but am unsure which gasket set brand to use as I’ve read conflicting opinions. I would like to get a genuine Honda head gasket if that tackles the oil weep issue.

[magpie114]

Collected my zinc plated bits and pieces this week and I've sent some fork and shock parts for chrome plating which look like being an 8 week turnaround. Still haven't fully removed the cylinder base gasket but it's currently soaking in WD40 at the moment. I've never come across a gasket as stubborn as this one.

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Also stripped the forks which are in surprisingly good condition to replace the seals. One fork came apart easily but the bottom socket bolt on the other fork refused to move and the Allen drive rounded the socket out. Had to drill thro the to the shank to remove the damper and found a rock hard adhesive or sealant around the head, top threads and copper sealing washer. Fortunately soaking in cellulose thinners softened it and freed the washer.

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I'm going to try industrial strength paint stripper on the crankcases and any brand recommendations would be welcome. First though, in the next day or two, I've got to tackle the sheared sump bolt which I've been putting off, really don't want to get that wrong. 

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