Front Caliper clearance.

[Johnny4428]

Mine is the same Ken, did wonder about grinding it off but it’s likely there for a reason. I’ll check the old pads that came out if they are still knocking about.

[Johnny4428]

The back of the old pad that came with the bike is just very slightly curved (convex). John was asking before if the pad was sliding freely in the Caliper which it certainly was when fitted but might have to check that out again to see if anything has been picked up to obstruct.

[Seabeowner]

I've a new Vesrah set. Near as dammit 13mm. They have a chamfer all round the abrasive face. So to start with only about 40mm dia of the 51mm will touch disc until it wears in. So no full braking until about 1.5mm wears off the face.

[Johnny4428]

It’s sorted! Would appear to be a blob of paint (or something) preventing the brake pad retracting fully inside the Caliper. Kicking myself that I missed that on assembly. Thanks all that commented, it is now set with the recommended clearance of 6 thou. Happy days.

[Oddjob]

Got to be honest and say I've never set the back pad clearance with a feeler gauge, I always used to get the pad so you could just hear it touching the disc when the wheel was spun and then back off the adjustment screw until I couldn't. I'd check it again after the pads had bedded in, feeler blades IMO can be deceiving, you're just checking the highest point in some cases, ok after the pads have bedded in as the pad is flatter then.

I found proper bedding in gave much better results than just using the brakes as normal, which TBH is what most people do, they just fit them and use them. I robbed this from the SBS website many months ago now.

Do 15 gentle brakes from 30mph and then a 2 mile cool down followed by another 15 or so from around 45mph using moderating brake pressure followed by another 2 mile cool down run, then stop to see how the discs look. You should clearly see pad transfer, it's a sort of blue/grey mist on the surface of the disc. Then do 15-20 full on braking sessions from around 65-75mph dropping the speed down really quickly but rolling off when around 10mph and then back up to speed again, followed by a 5 mile cool down run.

I've paraphrased that process a little.

[Johnny4428]

Ken that is good advice on brake bedding in, I actually followed that routine for the K3 following a previous post you had written. I will do the same again when the weather permits. Made a considerable difference on the K3.

[Oddjob]

Forgot to mention the existing brake pad transfer film on the disc surface must be removed when you fit new pads. Brake cleaner or a light sanding.

[Johnny4428]

Never thought about that Ken but I see why you would do that.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

When I worked in the car trade not only did we give customers a written advice about bedding in disc brakes but also tyres for the first 100 miles.

I remember most new cars back in the 1960's having running in stickers in the rear windows.

[Oddjob]

Never thought about that Ken but I see why you would do that.

I believe it's so the pad and the transfer material are the same, makes sense when you think about it. I preferred a light sanding to brake cleaner, scuffs up the disc surface as well making the bedding in process easier and faster IMO.

I remember the running in stickers as well Ted.