front brake adjust

[Bryanj]

I have been buying stainless piston with new sel as a kit from honda classics going direct rather than ebay, as to fluid i use what i have in stock, which at moment is dot 4 i think, bought 5 litres when i was having problems with my mates 1500 trike and still got a fair bit left, got it cos i was offered a deal after buying mannol oil from fleabay, using several different grades for the family "fleet"

[deltarider]

With all due respect and at risk of being blasphemous, may I dare ask this:
if chamfering does not help, why did Honda chamfer them? (see pic)

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Chamfering is common in the automotive industry. I was led to believe it helped in bedding in pads & reduced brake squeal.

[deltarider]

Chamfering is common in the automotive industry. I was led to believe it helped in bedding in pads & reduced brake squeal.

Yep, that's what I was told. It just happens to deviate from what's in that quoted post...

[Bryanj]

When Citroen come out with the big CX model that had the high pressure pump brake system the brakes would sometimes squeal a their answer was to put finger marks of coppaslip either side of the DISC, yes that is the disc braking surface and it did work, i believe the theory was the copper got into the micro holes in the friction matterial stopping the squeak.
I WOULD NOT SUGGEST THIS FOR ANY MOTORCYCLE, cars have four wheels and only fall over if heavily provoked

[Oddjob]

With all due respect and at risk of being blasphemous, may I dare ask this:
if chamfering does not help, why did Honda chamfer them? (see pic)

I would suspect they were chamferred from new because as Ted says it helped bedding in of the pads. I would also suspect that what Mike is saying about doing it after doesn't really work is that the problem lies elsewhere and the chamfering doesn't cure the squealing but the fact that to do this means disturbing the braking system and it's that which cures the squeal and people then think it's the chamfering that has done it. He could be wrong, it could be that he's tried it himself and it didn't work for him or it could be that it only works for certain types of squealing caused by a specific fault. 

[Johnwebley]

Chamfering originally was for the 2ls drum brakes, to prevent grab,

It could do a similar job with the leading edge of the pads,



Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk

[taysidedragon]

My dad always chamfered his drum brakes, single leading shoe,  bike and car.

[deltarider]

We'll soon have an answer.
Long time ago I have removed my unchamfered EBC brakepads, because they sqealed like hell, inspite of ATE grease being used. Now that my OEM Honda pads are at the red line, I have reinstalled the EBC pads which I now have chamfered. Next spring I'll report.
I'd like to grab the occasion to come to advised steps regarding reinstalling brakepads that have been in use before, but that are nowhere near the servicable limit. As you can see in the pic they are not worn perfectly even.
Let me try.
I have installed brake pad A, the one at the piston. Realise that this one can not do - wiggle somewhat - what pad B can do as the latter has this slight hump at the back. However I want first to align pad A to the disk as perfectly as possible to have the best starting point. How do I approach this?
The part of the caliper that holds pad B is still dissassembled for the time being.
I've looked for instructions, but although I have quite some manuals and articles, I haven't found the answer in steps I can follow. As you know I'm an amateur and depend on knowledge professionals have.
Thanks in advance.

[K2-K6]

These caliper are a hybrid design with swing/radius placement as they pivot on the arm, not often seen in other design now. Virtually everything now moves in parallel/sliding orientation.

The pads will wear ultimately into a wedge shape during use based on the radius of the arm. They ordinarily start approximately parallel (faces of pad to disc) with the arm position dictated by the non active pad, and the active pad more or less fully "retracted" into it's bore. From then onwards in their life they will accumulate wear that forms a wedge as the arm moves across it's arc through adjustment of the screw to take up wear of that non active pad.

Putting the same pair back into the caliper shouldn't be a problem as the wear status will still be correct for the arm geometry when last used in that part worn state.

Basic consideration (fulfilled by this design too) is to keep the back of the pad FULLY in contact with the hydraulic piston. This to facilitate consistent pressure across all of the pad from your hydraulic action of pulling the lever. 

[Johnwebley]

OK,first slacken the adjustment screw on the fork leg,ensure the caliper support arm moves freely,

The fit the caliper, but loosely,

The fit a flat spacer,about 2 or 3mm thick between the moving pad,now tighten the 2 bolts, when tight, loosen them and remove spacer,then retighten,
The wheel should spin easily, and the caliper swing aswell,

Turn adjustment until the pad just barely touches the disc,then back off Quarter turn,

Pump the brake, should be perfect



Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk

[deltarider]

Thanks gentlemen. I'll report back.

[...]
Basic consideration (fulfilled by this design too) is to keep the back of the pad FULLY in contact with the hydraulic piston. This to facilitate consistent pressure across all of the pad from your hydraulic action of pulling the lever.

That was and still is exactly my concern. I had not figured out a method - a following order - yet, but I will try what John suggests.
Back in the day these EBC* FA 13 made in Holland pads were quite popular. They are 'semi-metallic', but I have no idea what that means. I remember they were not chamfered at all and offered more 'meat' than OEM pads. They lack the red wear lines OEM pads have.
* European Brake Corporation

[Johnwebley]

I think the semi metallic pads were an idea to cut wet weather lag,

The minute metal pieces would cut through the water, and help the pad grip,

A personal note, the recent grey EBC pads I found terrible,




Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk

[Bryanj]

"Mettalic" pads were the first idea after asbestos was supposedly banned

[deltarider]

"Mettalic" pads were the first idea after asbestos was supposedly banned

Yep, package said NON ASBESTOS. I wonder if semi-metallic pads can harm disks?