TL125S

[Rozabikes Tim]

Looking at the parts list it looks to me like the coils are in the outer cover and the rotor is a permag hollow one, if so any "legged" puller will probably damage it.
It may be an 18mm  or 16 mm thread but use a HT bolt as it will need to be done up really tight.
The 4 legged Honda puller is a cross with a different thread on each leg, i have one but you are a bit far away.

Here ya go £16. Would say I would have it off you when done but I have the 4 legged one already.
Also they do a clutch nut too if you don't have one suitable.

[AndyD]

Dave,
Probably too late but attached is the section on the puller tool from the Honda Common Tool Manual.
I scanned the full manual for Ash quite some time ago so may be in the archive as well.
Hope you've got it sorted or if not that this may help.
Cheers,
Andy [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[AndyD]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Here are the pages in image form - linked to pdf in last post so probably doesn't work (must get a grip of all this IT stuff one day!).
Cheers,
Andy

[Laverda Dave]

Thanks for all the advice on the puller. I'll try a 14x1.25 pitch bolt high tensile bolt first and if that doesn't work I'll get a proper puller. The £16 price looks to be a bargain until the VAT & Post is added knocking it up to £26! If it were my bike I'd buy the tool but chances are it will be used once only, the owner of the bike is extremely unlikely to ever use it hence the bolt first option.

The engine is now out of the frame and on the bench ready for a full strip after crimbo (or between crimbo and new year depending on the mince pie and quality street situation 😋).

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

That looks an interesting challenge Dave, I look forward to seeing your progress 👍👍👍

[AndyD]

Dave,
Is it 1.25 - the Honda tool seems to show maybe 1.5 pitch.
If any help I can see if I've got any fiches for the TL125 in the pile in the garage - haven't used any or the scanner for a while but may still work with a bit of persuasion.
Cheers,
Andy

[Laverda Dave]

Thanks Andy.
Thankfully you won't need to fire up the microfiche for this one as the owner has supplied both the parts book and the full manual but thanks for the offer 👍.
I see what you mean about the thread pitch with the Honda manual stating both pitch sizes. The part offered by Honda Classics doesn't state the pitch. I'll have another look at what I need and will probably by a 14 x 1.5 and a 14 x 1.25 pitch bolt as they will always come in handy.
I'm in the middle of fabricating the missing cable and other brackets at the moment, very therapeutic as pulling and pushing at the moment is really painful considering I have apparently torn three tendons in my shoulder (rotator cuff accord to my GP) and I have no idea how I did it!

[Murf]

Hi Just seen your post,
I had a TL125 trials bike back in the day which I did use in competitive trials for a short time.  As  trials bike it was ok and reliable but did lack a bit of pick up and instant power for coming out of say a very tight slow turn straight into a steep climb or jumping up a rock ledge.  I did get a Sammy Miller 150cc conversion for mine and had it bored out. The kit also included a more straight through exhaust, which did away with the large triangular box type silencer fitted as standard.  The bike was better as a 150 but still a bit underpowered for me, I am sure a better rider could of course done better on it than me.  For the Sammy Miller kits I seem to remember that a standard piston from another Honda was used.  A lot of the bikes that were used in trials were bored to 150cc or even a bit more. The cylinder liner was a bit thin at 150 though. 

In its 150cc form the  bike was nice on the road and had a nice thumpy 4 stroke single feel and sound when accelerating. 
That exhaust flange is not a standard thing.
Mine was not fitted with any lights or indicators, though I do believe there was a lighting kit for it.

Good luck with the rebuild.

[Laverda Dave]

Thanks for your comments Murf. It does appear very few of these bikes have the lighting kit still fitted making it impossible to find any replacements. If you have any photos of your old bike especially of the back it would help me to fabricate some of the brackets that have been cut off the one in my garage .  If you have any parts for the old girl lurking away in a damp cardboard box in the garage or up in the loft that you'd like to sell off please let me know (I know its a long, long, long shot after all these years but worth asking anyway 

[Laverda Dave]

A bit of painfully slow progress to report.
 
I had to halt the strip down of the bike following the engine removal because the more I stripped it down the more Items I found were missing, bent or damaged. The frame has been de-lugged all over including the tool box, rear indicators, ignition barrel holder, helmet lock etc. Also missing were all the cable guides on the front forks. The front brake cable has been rubbing on the tire with the outer casing being rubbed down to the metal inner casing.

In view of the above and it being impossible to find replacement cable guides I have made them using the still available (pattern) inner cable guides. I studied the parts book and photos and from these I scaled up the images to work out where they should fit and the sizes. I had to make three in total, 2 x front brake cable and 1 x throttle cable guides. The same applied to the front reflector brackets that were also missing. I made them from cardboard first and once happy I made them from some 1.2mm metal sheet. I am assembling all of the brackets to the bike as a dry build to make sure everything is where it should be and doing what it should without fouling anything.

I still have the ignition barrel bracket and the rear indicator brackets to make. The front headlamp /indicator stay I purchased from eBay in France arrived and of course it isn’t a TL part as advertised but off something else! I need to modify this (it has already been previously modified by a PO) to make it fit properly and to cut off and make a new bridge piece for the horn mounting. Once all the missing brackets are all made I’ll finish stripping the frame down and get it checked for alignment.  I will get the cable brackets chrome plated and everything else can go off for powder coating with the frame.

I still need to find a suitable headlight shell as the Honda part is unavailable. The headlight itself I can get a pattern replacement but the only shell I have seen has the appearance of a boiled egg with its head smashed in! I have found a l/h handlebar switch, it is used, in Germany and costs an eye-watering £214, I’ll look around for a pattern or near to it part as it is not my bike but a mate’s and he’s not going to want to spend that kind of money on a s/h switch (err.... I would though ).

I checked the rear sprocket whilst I was in stripping down mode; I think a shark would be proud of teeth like these, another part that will be going into the scrap bin!

[Rozabikes Tim]

Nice going Dave, love your attention to detail.

Re switch, see link below. These a very close to original but have more functions. Leccy start etc. Dirt cheap. I've bought a set as nothing to loose. Plastic bodies but even so, a nice weighty feel. Not looked any deeper at quality. From what I remember, master on off control on right bar and dip / indicators on the left. Is that correct in the flesh?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387718872581?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=QYbagBvSTI-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Wwl4JSf7QJi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 

[Laverda Dave]

Hi Tim.

Thanks for you kind comments, its turning into a labour of love (or agnst!) depending on the day  .

I can send you the patterns to make the cable and refelctor brackets if you need them, let me know.

Yep, I looked at those switches and as you say dirt cheap and I'd rather try these than pay over £250 for a s/h part from Germany that may or may not work (the TL headlight bracket I bought from ebay France wasn't as advertised and I had to pay more #@%$ tax on it when I collected it from the post office  ).
The only issue I can see with these apart from the additional functions that are not need are the cable colours and the block connectors. I'd have to modify these with bullet connectors to suit.

I have been looking at these as an alternative, they look more the part and again are as cheap as chips;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276242885682?_skw=HONDA+HANDLBAR+SWITCH+FOR+TL125&itmmeta=01JGY8BKYNWMJWN1JERKPWBDDH&hash=item40515bec32:g:Oo0AAOSwUDRlQyMV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnrkUJG9NQKq7%2FH6F6ViBsT4CwXJv5tyQnbu6l6Eo%2FcSh%2B1QS%2BrrL5lkXo1yvlN8LACZoQNuIu%2FUoX0JPhfjhiRvbnD42BVeBByuMgjVcktV5y%2Bf0pMFf%2FmCnag%2BIf0dFGw%2FGL9oVCDyyeqm8D5g%2F%2B42UqHlcDQdgrRGvAKfaeFnQ%2B%2BK459HWeRXSoARTwAQojc1kq0sqWLvDvkpiJmApVjIfTJM71M1Xy%2BucyP0DGkXQ5jVzs14sZgTx4EJR8W1jfyZHGPVma4ms%2BrDH%2F3YV%2Bu%2FQ30eN20pWa25sFCiNlsIvWv0iFjxqF99h03QlHNOVU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMwr-uyIdl

I have contacted my mate and given him the details of the s/h switch and will let him decide, it's his money although I'd be happy to spend it for him  .

On another slightly different TL subject.......Does your bike still have the rear indicator brackets welded to the frame on the rear loop? The ones on my bike have been cut off. If your bike does have the brackets would it be possible for you to take a photo of it please? I know the indicators themselves have the normal 'U' shaped bracket with the internal rubber cushion fitted and these mount to the bracket. I'm just a bit stuck of how the bracket should look (I assume it is 'L' shaped), It's size as in dimensions and where it should fit on the loop (measurement from the upper rear shock mount). If your bike still has these brackets fitted it would be a godsend if you are able to supply some measurements. The good news is the U bracket and cusion is available as a pattern part from CSMNL (at a cost and DSS dont stock them).

Cheers
Dave

[Rozabikes Tim]

No problems re rear bracket  info for indicators. May get a chance tomorrow and will PM info.

Yes please on the patterns. 

Has your front light bracket got the rubber mounts where it sits into the lower yoke? If not let me know as seemed unobtainable but I located some totally  by chance in my Japan Buyee searches.

I recon that switch you have seen is the same as I've got. Image in the link I sent has left and right swapped round... I'll take some pictures of mine including cabling etc.

[Laverda Dave]

Thanks Tim and No, the bracket I have doesn't have the lower rubbers so if you can get a couple from your source that would be good. Let me know the details and I'll pay via PayPal F&F if ok with you.
I'll send the patterns, I'll draw them up and send these rather then the cardboard paterns. That will be the cable guides and the front reflector mounts. Send me a PM with your address and I'll get them drawn up.

[Laverda Dave]

I took a break from bracket making whilst I wait for some rubber cushions from HGB to determine the hole size required to make the ignition bracket.

In the meantime I decided to strip the engine and give the various components a good clean in the (freezing cold) parts washer. Getting into the engine was difficult due to the butchered heads on the engine screws, I had to drill a couple out after penetrating oil and lots of heat failed.

Once into the engine all was not good, the cam chain had done an amazing impression of a chain saw on the left hand crankcase eating away at the alloy and only prevented doing more damage due to the edge of the main bearing being in the way! The cam chain tension was on its maximum adjustment. Once out the deflection on the cam chain was in the region of 25mm, fair to say its toast! The cam chain drive wheel on the end of the crankshaft is so badly worn I am surprised the chain actually stayed on it! This appears to be an interference fit on the crank as I cannot see any keyway or other form of retention so hopefully it will pull off with a bit of heat and a puller? Has anyone changed one of these, I notice they are still available from CSMNL.

As thought the engine has been taken out to 150cc. The liner is like a knife edge at the spigot, what a shame whoever did the re-bore didn’t bore it straight  . One edge of the liner is thicker than the other. There is also a barrel fin waiting to drop off due to a crack so this and the state of the bore make me think I need to look out for another barrel and start afresh. There is someone on eBay who sells 150cc barrels but these are from Chinese Keyway engines and are square finned and would look a bit odd on a 1976 TL engine . If anyone has a cylinder lying around they’d like to sell please let me know.

I discoverd a nice selection of bolts holding the clutch pressure plate on, all of various lengths . It is obvious a final drive chain has failed in a big way previously looking at the state of the engine casing (and the sproket cover has a huge crack right across it).

Next task is to remove the engine dowels and finish scraping the gaskets off that have been stuck on with what looks likes cement!  I will drift out the gearbox bearings although one of these is a blind bearing so I’m not sure how I’ll deal with getting that one out, look on YouTube maybe? Once the cases are empty I will loosely reassemble, fit it back in the frame and take the frame, swing arm and rear wheel to be alignment checked, I bet the frame is bent