Author Topic: 1969 Diecast/ K0 restoration (Read 34515 times)

Seamus · « **Reply #15 on:** November 18, 2012, 11:05:50 AM »

Some tank repairs are performed by welding on studs to the dent and then heating the area. Pull the dent with a slidehammer attached to the stud. Gets most of it out, but will still need some filler.
Other option is to use a professional..

Good luck

K2-K6 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 18, 2012, 06:08:57 PM »

It's worth asking around to get a pro opinion on if it can be done without any invasive surgery as would would be ideal to keep it as good as possible.

If you weld to it, then longer term you'll probably get it rusting on the other side (inside the tank) so it may even be better to leave as-is and just fill it really well as ultimately thats the same as using a skim if filler to finish anyway unless you wanted to lead it to get final profile.

Also if you weld to it in order to pull it out that is quite an agressive tactic normally used on accident repair when they just want a fix and don't really care as they are not the owner and will never see it again either.

I'd guess a gentle old fashioned method would go something like this:- get a specialist long curved panel beating dolly to reach inside, get someone else to gently heat the outside without going too hot and slowly tap it back out, finish off with lead surfacing and sand back to correct profile ready to pant.

I can see how people may judge you talking to the rabbit Pete, you've got a point there.

UK Pete · « **Reply #17 on:** November 18, 2012, 06:48:28 PM »

Stuart, the stripper i used was nitromores with a bit of thinners added , it got the paint quite soft ,and then i shaved it off with a fine blade followed by a satin polishing mop
As for the dent i suppose the easiest and cheapest option is for me to fill it, i recon i can get it quite good by taking my time with it,
i have a good two pack primer filler as well so after filling i will give the whole tank a couple of coats and smooth out any inperfections,
i was even considering constructing a spray booth and having a go a my own paint job
pete

K2-K6 · « **Reply #18 on:** November 18, 2012, 09:00:49 PM »

I guess some are just cut open and beaten out then welded back shut again on the base side which to some may not matter, but as the wrinkled pressing on the base of these is part of the original basic manufacture then a more sensitive approach may be wise if you wish to maintain that. And it would most likely still need filling.

As you say Pete, nobody will see a very well done fill if you get the profile and flatting correct.

UK Pete · « **Reply #19 on:** November 18, 2012, 09:19:55 PM »

Made some more progress today, i was thinking of a plan of attack which way best to tackle the restoration when it occured to me that my preffered method of installing the engine is to lay it on its side and lower the frame over it, so i really need to build the engine sooner rather than later as i wont be putting anything back together until the engine is in the frame, so i set about getting a decent size bench for engine building, the perfect place is in the warm and dry so in my nice heated garage it is, on top of my pool table, which happens to be where i built my F2 engine

The problem as always is man handling the engine, you have to so carefull lifting these as its quite easy to bust your bollocks and back, so below is how i tackled it

First of all create the space

Get the engine out and onto a scate board

Up into the garage and on to a lower work bench

And onto the build bench

Its first time i have had a good look at the engine, the main thing is no bad cosmetic damage , all the fins are in great condition, also the lower half of the engine looks like its never been disasembled before which is always a plus point i find, another good point is that the engine ran really well it just leaked oil so i am hoping for no nasty surpises

Bryanj · « **Reply #20 on:** November 19, 2012, 08:25:26 AM »

Looking at that engine I would guestimate that most of the oil is leaking round the rubber seals.

Do check the threads in the head for the 6mm studs and bolts and use sealant on the threads when re-fitting

mooks-parts · « **Reply #21 on:** November 21, 2012, 02:36:15 PM »

you could do with a set of Henry Abe Mag Wheels

UK Pete · « **Reply #22 on:** November 21, 2012, 07:47:12 PM »

Here goes then time to strip the engine

Rocker cover off,a well preserved number written on inside

all looks good in there

Cam towers off they both have a code on the side, could it be a date ?

I have had one of these snap before so i am not taking any chances as this one is in real tight, a bit of heat and a hit from the hammer free,s it up

Off with the head,it has had a serious oil leak for some time by the looks of it

Off with the barrels

Open up the crankcase, all looks good, vitually no sludge, just a few bit of muck in the oil strainer

Washed the cases in my parts washer, more preserved numbers written inside

Could this be the bearing code on the underside of front upper crankcase

At last some sort of order, all small bits baged and labled, cases cylinders and head all washed clean , now i can work my way through this lot and see what i need to order

K2-K6 · « **Reply #23 on:** November 21, 2012, 11:00:45 PM »

That looks pretty good inside, I'm still amazed at what's in that design considering what else was around at the time, they just shifted engine design by miles then.

Bryanj · « **Reply #24 on:** November 22, 2012, 07:34:25 AM »

The BAABB are the main bearing housing codes and looking at the headgasket picture whilst the fin is absolutely covered the gasket looks dry so i doubt it was leaking there, maybe a small amount at the 2 "O" rings round the studs at the rear. I still think it was leaking past the rubber pucks, and speaking of rubber that cam chain tensioner wheel is furxtd

UK Pete · « **Reply #25 on:** November 23, 2012, 09:37:35 AM »

Nigel it does look really good inside, the cam and crank surfaces are amazingly good for 43 years old, the engine bottom end has definetly not been opened up before, the head has been off and thats it, i have done a visual inspection and i would guess this bikes milage is quite low,i have not done any measurments but the bores and pistons seem good as well
Bryan i would say you diagnosis is spot on , the rubber pucks showed all the signs of letting oil past them, also your right about the cam tensioner wheel , it is pretty chewed up, i bet the adjuster was over tightened a bit for it to chew up like that, i will be renewing all the cam tensioner parts and chain, and the bottom crank chains with its tensioner, new rings and a hone , and possibly valve guides and valve seat job if needed, ok David silver stand by you are about to relieve me of a whole heap more of my hard earned LOL
Just been adding up what i have already spent and what i am probably going to spend, F---K ME , it would probably be cheaper to buy a bike that is already done, but hey where is the fun in that
Pete

Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP) · « **Reply #26 on:** November 23, 2012, 10:49:42 AM »

And you get the satisfaction of knowing its done properly by you and not taking someones word that yeah I replaced this that and the other
Regards
Bitsa

Lobo · « **Reply #27 on:** November 24, 2012, 02:50:50 PM »

Pete, the tank...read elsewhere a trick is to fill the tank with water & freeze it...but taking great care towards 'the end' & choosing the right time versus bursting it. Fraught perhaps! But possibly worth experimenting with an old dog of a tank before committing the beauty you have. Good luck with whatever you decide.

UK Pete · « **Reply #28 on:** November 25, 2012, 09:02:28 PM »

Done my battery box and electrics this weekend, a bit random i know, one minute i am doing the tank then engine, the next i am doing this but i suppose it pays to do anything as it is all a step nearer to the end

Here is a reminder of the battery box and electrics