Points or electronic ignition ?

[Niko]

Had the instructions from ds today.....missing rotor is a problem. It may have to go back if he can't find it as ds won't sell one separately


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[bomber]

Sorry for hijacking your thread,
Lobo, I have just rebuild my bike cb550f and struggling with power, as you mentioned this DSS electronic ignition requires positive feed, would you say it is ok to run it straight from battery?
Reason is after plugging all the connections there is no sign of life I suspect it is something to do with blue and yellow cables still disconnected as per pont 12 in the instructions form DSS

Many thanks

Hi Bodd,

There are quite a few choices about... and indeed most seem to retain the points... but now purely as 'switches', and in doing so minimising any current flow across them & subsequent wear. Consequently the promise is they'll rarely ever need setting up again / adjusting. Hmmm..the poor things bouncing up & down @ 4000 rpm day in / day out leaves me wondering about that.

Anyways, I bought the DSS offering and stuck it on my '750 K2. An easy enough job, no extra boxes to hide about the bike etc. and no, I wouldn't worry about the brake light feed.... it is simply the NEAREST positive feed... if the light doesn't work it's simply suggesting there may be a problem with that circuit. Remember though, ANY circuit / feed can have issues... 
But, if it makes you happier, simply connect the electronic ignition to any ignition switched live of your choice.

The DSS ignition,  to my mind, was cheaply made. The PCB was almost wafer thin... none of it gave confidence. This, coupled with a rough running bike after a 50 mile run (missing at power) prompted me to take it off. This assertion might be terribly unfair, but the bike had a new loom, points, overhauled carbs... everything...  and before (and after) once again, runs 'just great'.

Anyways, coz I just like to tinker, I've recently installed an optical ignition, British made, called 'Newtronic'. Same sorta price... £117'ish if I remember. It does away with the points, though retains the advance / retard unit. The switching is done via a plate with a cut-out interrupting a beam.
A bit more of a pain to install.... and you'd need to find space for a smallish box. The kit is very complete, and appears to be good quality. One big drawback though is that it too requires a power feed, but not 'continuous' as, like the coils, can be damaged if left powered with the engine off. In other words, you're told to use the coils supply... ie (the black / white) from the kill switch. (this 'warning' is given in accompanying literature supplied with the instructions)

The kill switch was designed to carry (guess) a couple of amps for the coils. It is up to you whether you now want it to carry (guess) another couple of amps... but in keeping with what I've read in other forums, I installed a relay, switched by the kill switch, but providing power from a 'solid' live.
The bike, btw, runs fine.... but better than the OEM points?.... I can't tell. Big drawback of the new system is that roadside repairs with a piece of fag paper are no longer possible... but perhaps this is the dinosaur in me coming out.

One final consideration... electronic systems require a minimum voltage to work. As I see it, an 'original' bike with a duff battery at say, 8v might have a hope of being bump started: an 'electronic' bike won't... you'll be stuck. Happy to hear other thoughts on this one, but I'd guess the electronic system is less tolerant of 'worn' bikes.

All in all, I'm not convinced; we're not tearing abouts race tracks; and the points / Honda system works fine - especially given the few miles I do pa. I think I'll leave the '400 original... as said, I'm just a sucker for tinkering.

Cheers,
Simon


http://www.newtronic.co.uk/new/support/newtro/AK-HO4FittingInstructions.pdf

[Niko]

It's on it's way back....eBay clown.


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[kevski]

I have always had good results with dyna s and boyer bransden systems, i used to live 4 miles away from the boyer manufacturing site and just used to go to them when i needed a system, they are always at the end of the phone as well if you need technical support, a little more exspensive than others but worth the extra.

[Johnwebley]

I have always had good results with dyna s and boyer bransden systems, i used to live 4 miles away from the boyer manufacturing site and just used to go to them when i needed a system, they are always at the end of the phone as well if you need technical support, a little more exspensive than others but worth the extra.

 agrees totally,used Boyer since late 70's

[Niko]

In fairness it seems to run ok on its points....starts first kick too


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[Moorey]

Points and condensers for me once set up properly they are no bother and don't need faffing about with between services.

[PatM]

I'm an electronics engineer and although I get the electronic benefits, id whole recommend sticking with points and condensers. you usually get a warning if something is starting to fail but with hall effect or similar electronic switching- you don't!  Electronics requires a decent stable power supply- no spikes, no nasty a/c. these Hondas are simple machines and have neither. The rectifier is primitive and the alternator can be wild at times. but they work! Replace coils by all means- the originals leak due to insulation degradation/tracking- but the points, providing they are kept dry- they work. if they do get wet, you can dry them out. you will rarely be stranded at the roadside with the original set-up. providing everything is set up- tappets/valves, carbs sync'd, battery good, earths good and points gap and dwell- then for longevity- they will be the best bet.
I've other bikes with electronics and they work- but if they fail, then I'm in the dark as I can't see it, i can't measure it (well not very easily)
You don't even need a meter with theses bikes- a belt and two wires soldered to it will get you through most problems.