Is this a genuine clutch lifter push rod mod or what...

[Bryanj]

Don't think the dome has to be a perfect match, just a half round as the lifter will spin on a point contact. Link below is to a yank selling an old stock modification kit so you can see what is in it, the bulletin should be on the US board somewhere.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251624595959?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1649wt_721

[Trigger]

Nice bit of information Bryan, Cheers. Have changed all the parts except the push rod. Why does he have clutch case in the picture? I looked at the case but, could not find any difference.

[simonster]

I have re examined my push rod. It has an alloy sheath over a steel inner. The alloy extends the entire length bar one inch from the domed end which then steps down in diamter by approx 0.3mm to 7.5 mm to perfectly fit the lifter mushrrom. Could be this domed section is the same on the K0 model!?

[Trigger]

The rod i took out the K0 is some sort of Black steel. Also have a alloy push rod that has the same fitment to the mushroom.

[simonster]

Thanks for the info. I'm going to buy a 7.8 mm steel rod and step it to fit the lifter mushroom unless anyone can give a more accurate diameter size over my measurement?

[Trigger]

Oddjob has one he was going to post the spec on. Mine are in a few bits and can not be trusted.

[simonster]

Cheers. I'm investing in a digital vernier tomorrow so will update with any change to the specs already given.

[Trigger]

Found a rod today hidden in a tea chest but, it is 236mm x 8mm and the mushroom end is 7.45mm dia x 12.15

[simonster]

Your measurements are close to mine at 7.85 x 235 mm and mushroom end 7.45 x20 mm. Each end is hardened steel with the rod between being alloy reduce down to sleeve into the steel ends. The section which has snapped is at the join point on the adjuster side just beyond the transmission side of the oil seal. I' m thinking this may be a deliberate design weakness point to allow the push rod to snap rather than bend and play havoc with the clutch action caused by chain lash. I may be way off with this suggestion, but it seems the only reason to mix alloy and steel strength on a disposable part, other than a weight saving feature perhaps, but not believing that idea!??

[Bryanj]

The lighter rod was to save weight (don't we all need that!) as the 500 has a nasty habit of clutch slip and a lighter rod should, in theory, move quicker. Having said that I have somewhere a new Honda part that is a gold passivated steel item

[simonster]

I am in the process of fabricating a steel rod with carbon hardened ends to match the dimensions of my existing push rod. 

[Trigger]

I took on all that members said and looked into why there are two push rods for the CB500. CB500K0 had part number 22850-292-020 and the rest of the 500's had 11850-323-000. The thing that got me was the rod for the K0 was one piece but, the other model's where a 3 part rod that was pressed together to make one rod.
Had a mail today that explained why this was done. Honda in there wisdom came up with idea that the end of the rods could be pressed on to any length of alloy rod so it could be used on other Honda model's. But, also this 3 part rod became a weak part if knocked by the chain.
I will be having a meeting with a tool maker to find the costs of producing this part again.   

[Trigger]

Cheers Oddjob, Was thinking of making the whole rod as one out of silver steel and hardening the ends. This seems to be the cheapest option. Cheers for the rod that will be the blue print.