It has arrived!

[JustcallmeMrT]

I had a few of the same issues on a 550 a fair few years ago the cracked brake mounting on the fork lower might be weldable but I just replaced mine as a replacement was cheap at the time though I did ride it like that for a bit. I cannot recall what i did to resolve the disk alignment for twin disking - think I just replaced filed a light champher onto the pads but I did have piles of comstars and disks off a job lot of comstars around so could mix and match a lot. I think nowadays I would look at taking the hub back 2 mm on the disk seat but that requires quite a big lathe as it is not possible to safely dismantle a comstar wheel and rebuild it.

I'm intending to put the original spoked wheels back on.  Would it be the same procedure?

[simonster]

If you intend to try and repair the fork case mounting lug, you should check out the Laser aluminium repair system demonstration video on you tube. It brazes with aluminium at less than 300 degrees and it has twice the strength and no nasty flux required. It works a treat on anything non ferrous and its well worth the £25 for five rods. I've tried standard aluminium brazing rods and the laser rods really do the business. Anyone with a mapp or butane torch could work with them for cracks, holes stripped thread on all ally components. I've just used them for brazing up a hand made ally battery mount on my cafe conversion and the join is stronger than the ally pieces. It should work for your lug.

[JustcallmeMrT]

If you intend to try and repair the fork case mounting lug, you should check out the Laser aluminium repair system demonstration video on you tube. It brazes with aluminium at less than 300 degrees and it has twice the strength and no nasty flux required. It works a treat on anything non ferrous and its well worth the £25 for five rods. I've tried standard aluminium brazing rods and the laser rods really do the business. Anyone with a mapp or butane torch could work with them for cracks, holes stripped thread on all ally components. I've just used them for brazing up a hand made ally battery mount on my cafe conversion and the join is stronger than the ally pieces. It should work for your lug.

Thanks Simonster,  will have a look.  Might be a relatively easy fix.

[tom400f]

I lied, one more question .  Is this the original brake master or has it been replaced to run the dual front disks?

Looks original to me. There must be a splitter presumably where the union with the lower hose(s) is.

Whether it's up to the job I couldn't say.

[JustcallmeMrT]

I lied, one more question .  Is this the original brake master or has it been replaced to run the dual front disks?

Looks original to me. There must be a splitter presumably where the union with the lower hose(s) is.

Whether it's up to the job I couldn't say.

Yep, the splitter was on the lower hose.  Overall the whole system looked pretty rough.  I can get a brand new aftermarket Goldwing GL1000 master cylinder setup from DSS for £35, so I think I'll do that instead of rebuilding what I have, as I don't think the original can push enough fluid.

[Trigger]

Just had a look in the store and I have a left fork case in good condition if you require one. The right one had a snapped bolt that someone made a mess of trying to drill out.

[Johnwebley]

difficult to say,you need to check the bore size,externally they look the same

[JustcallmeMrT]

Just had a look in the store and I have a left fork case in good condition if you require one. The right one had a snapped bolt that someone made a mess of trying to drill out.

Ok, about to show just how new I am to this.... when you say left, do you mean left as seen by the rider? 
If so, it's the same side as my good case.
I looked into the laser aluminum brazing rods, they look pretty good, might give a try repairing with those.
Any thoughts?

[Trigger]

Left is your left hand as you sit on the bike. I have a good left fork case when you are requiring a right one. Am i right?

[matthewmosse]

Pretty sure on my bike it was the left side one that lost a big chunck. I would be wary of welding on brake mounts without x ray to check it is good right to the root, maybe over the top but a small crack at the root of a welded joint can proporgate and grow -I never did welding on alloy but when learning welding at collage, destructive testing of welds really made you realise how a tiny flaw in the form of poor root fusion could grow and snap a weld that was thicker than the parent material. I know nothing of these low temp alloy fusion methods so am happy to stand corrected.

[JustcallmeMrT]

Left is your left hand as you sit on the bike. I have a good left fork case when you are requiring a right one. Am i right?

Yes, my left one is the cracked one, it's the right fork case I need.  Maybe ebay will prove useful.

[JustcallmeMrT]

Pretty sure on my bike it was the left side one that lost a big chunck. I would be wary of welding on brake mounts without x ray to check it is good right to the root, maybe over the top but a small crack at the root of a welded joint can proporgate and grow -I never did welding on alloy but when learning welding at collage, destructive testing of welds really made you realise how a tiny flaw in the form of poor root fusion could grow and snap a weld that was thicker than the parent material. I know nothing of these low temp alloy fusion methods so am happy to stand corrected.

I'll definitely have to look into it further.  I have no desire for a bodged braking system.  Thanks for the insight!

Any chance you still have the good right fork?

[Bryanj]

Way back when I saw lots of bikes with that sort of crack, as long as the big bolt and the other small bolt are good a repair will be fine

[UK Pete]

Great bike Mr T ,  a real bargin by the looks of it ,  good luck with restoration
pete

[matthewmosse]

Apologies, I just looked again and its the small bolt hole you have fractured, probably be fine with alloy welding, for some reason I had it in my head it was the big un that had cracked, probably because on mine it was the big bolt lug. I am bound to still have the forks in question and if needed can dig them out and sell you the spare lower leg provinding it passes muster, ie no stripped threads etc. One word of warning though, with so many project machines I am inclined to take an age to find bits or even forget why I went out to the shed and get distracted by rusty things so may need reminding.