To splice or not to splice

[mick]

Sorry to hijack your thread Mick  , cheers for the coil and caps info chaps  cheers Mick.

[Green1]

That alright Mick I think I do that more that anyone else.

Thanks Ash I will probably take you up on your offer when I come to do them.
That's funny I just put that putty in my basket before you posted that.
I don't know what has happened to Araldite it doesn't seem to go as hard as it used to.

Mick

[MarkCR750]

That alright Mick I think I do that more that anyone else.

Thanks Ash I will probably take you up on your offer when I come to do them.
That's funny I just put that putty in my basket before you posted that.
I don't know what has happened to Araldite it doesn't seem to go as hard as it used to.

Mick

It's not just araldite I'm having that problem with these days 

[Green1]

I wondered how long it would take for someone to say that

[MarkCR750]

Sorry, I accidentally watched a carry on film the other day.

[K2-K6]

I thought it was going toward "said the actress to the bishop" meself.

[Bryanj]

When youre diabetic the little blue pills are free

[AshimotoK0]

When youre diabetic the little blue pills are free

 A stiff drink works wonders !

Seriously though, that epoxy from RS has been around Yonks.. at least 25 years, to my knowledge, and,although it takes ages to cure (but very quick if you heat the parts up) the bond strength is excellent. And without wanting to sound like a prick  it goes off rock hard.

If you mix it to a putty with fine aluminium powder it acts as a plastic metal and has great thermal conductivity but still electrically insulating ( tens of megOhms) when cured. I also have some really finely divided  (like dust)white  ceramic powder which, when mixed to a putty consistency cures with the RS epoxy, had a hardness like it's on the old blue (or yellow!!) pills and you have to grind it to smooth it off. Not sure where you would get that white powder though as I was given a bag of it by a mate who's a plastic moulder so probably used in that industry as a reinforcing filler.

All this talk of stiffies and white powder making me sound like a right dodgy geezer

Cheers ... AshD

[AshimotoK0]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MILLIPUT-Black-Versatile-Epoxy-Putty-/250782828884 available in other colours


http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/potting-compounds/1991468/
 
Above, This is the stuff for the pre-bond of HT cable into semi-circular groove left by the old lead  .. been using it for years.. forget Araldite etc. etc. this is the dogs for bonding. If you just want a small sample to do coils I can send you some. A pack of it lasts forever and bonds everything around the house.

link to rubber sleeving I don't have at home but going to get a quantity of it soon.

Test coil was off a 1977 CB750K7 and its a black TEC FL703-12V 4 D  SECONDARY MEASURES ABOUT 15k OHMS AND PRIMARY 4.5 OHMS. Like many other coils the HT lead insulation had gone stiff and the inner wire core fractured at the point of exit from coil and the rubber outer sheath was split. Funny, the rubber sheath is about 1mm wall thickness on this coil but more like 1.5 mm on the CB350K2 coil ( yellow colour coil body).

Cheers ... Ash
[/quote]


CUT AWAY (NOTE BRASS TERMINAL WITH HOLE IN IT TO SOLDER COPPER WIRE CORE TO)

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WITH NEW HT LEAD INSERTED AND READY FOR SOLDERING

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[AshimotoK0]

Just observed that the inner of the original HT is rubber and still soft. It's the outer PVC jacket that Hardens.
Also noticed that the primary coil colours from the points are blue and other side yellow. Same colours as the two most  popular male hardeners

Cheers ...Ash

[MarkCR750]

I wonder if the Microsoft anti porn sweeper has picked up this thread yet?

On a serious note though isn't it just better to buy new coils?, they are not expensive and I would imagine the coils deteriorate over time not just the leads (that said what do I know about electrics!)

[AshimotoK0]

I wonder if the Microsoft anti porn sweeper has picked up this thread yet?

On a serious note though isn't it just better to buy new coils?, they are not expensive and I would imagine the coils deteriorate over time not just the leads (that said what do I know about electrics!)

No, TEC (OEM Honda)  coils are very reliable electrically. My first 400/4 ones were wacked with 400v from the home made CDI I built and never broke down on insulation in 20k miles and never known of a primary burning out like the old Lucas 'Prince of Darkness' ones. You could get a spark more than  1/2 long from that CDI setup. Genuine ones are not cheap and who knows how good the after-market ones are. Personally I like to restore as much as possible and I would never trust the HT leads on a used TEC coil due to the hardening of the outer HT sheath and hence  possible fatigue but once restored as I describe they should be fine. Each to their own I suppose but I would rather spend the money on cam chains, primary chains and perishable rubber engine parts.

Cheers .. AshD

[MarkCR750]

I wonder if the Microsoft anti porn sweeper has picked up this thread yet?

On a serious note though isn't it just better to buy new coils?, they are not expensive and I would imagine the coils deteriorate over time not just the leads (that said what do I know about electrics!)

No, TEC (OEM Honda)  coils are very reliable electrically. My first 400/4 ones were wacked with 400v from the home made CDI I built and never broke down on insulation in 20k miles and never known of a primary burning out like the old Lucas 'Prince of Darkness' ones. You could get a spark more than  1/2 long from that CDI setup. Genuine ones are not cheap and who knows how good the after-market ones are. Personally I like to restore as much as possible and I would never trust the HT leads on a used TEC coil due to the hardening of the outer HT sheath and hence  possible fatigue but once restored as I describe they should be fine. Each to their own I suppose but I would rather spend the money on cam chains, primary chains and perishable rubber engine parts.

Cheers .. AshD

And there's the enjoyment of fixing them as well I guess so yes as you say each to their own.

[Green1]

I don't know how you do it Ash I haven't even checked to see if the plugs stay in yet.
I'm all for repairing as much as possible not only that I may learn something along the way.
Yet another job on the too do list.

[MarkCR750]

I suppose this would already have been done by someone if it were possible/worthwhile, but is it possible to tap a piece of steel tubing with a spark plug thread, then cut an external thread on that piece of tubing and cut a matching thread into the cylinder head, then braze the tube onto the spark plug and screw the plug into the head as normal, so basically you have created a spark plug with an oversize (bigger diameter) thread and then tapped out the cylinder to suit, no insert to come loose cos it's part of the plug, (actually you could turn the threads off the plug and braze an externally threaded bush onto it), it's possibly less work than taking the head off?just a thought!
EDIT; Apologies, wrong thread (excuse the pun) I'll move it.