Starting the engine

[Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP)]

According to the bikes owners manual 3 watt
Cheers
Bitsa

[El__burro]

This morning between one shower and an other I've managed to assemble part of the wiring.
Unfortunately I couldn't get it to start but I managed to test the starter motor,  it sounds good.
Tomorrow I'll have a better look at the wiring
Can the rectifier (in the picture) be rewired somehow from the middle?

[El__burro]

Nothing.
3 days of attempts have led me to nothing actually, to desperation.
I have followed the wiring diagram but no sign of life.
I have tested the starter relay, works fine.
Replaced the kill switch and start button, still nothing.
It seems like i have no power to that side.
Battery is new and fully charged
I have been trying to test the rectifier but is it worth?

What is the very very basic wiring i need to connect?

Thanks
El__burro

[Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP)]

Rectifer
Will not stop it from starting.Are you sure by the coils you did not connect the blk to blk/white?If you have put them in the blk.Blk/white is stop switch
Cheers
Bitsa

[El__burro]

Bitsa, the 2 black/white wire connect into one and end up to the kill switch.
clymer manual has a wiring diagram for k2 but I think there's something wrong with it. (It has 3 fuses)

I am using the one above found online. One fuse as per my wiring.
   

[Trigger]

Bitsa, the 2 black/white wire connect into one and end up to the kill switch.
clymer manual has a wiring diagram for k2 but I think there's something wrong with it. (It has 3 fuses)
I am using one I found online. One fuse as per my wiring.  (attached)
   

K2's came with a single fuse on the early units and moved on to the 3 fuse.

[El__burro]

Not much but at least a step forward,
After replacing starter and kill switches i have finally managed to operate the starter motor from the push start switch.
Now..
I am looking at COILS, there is no spark on any of the plugs,
I am looking to test the coils, any suggestions?

Thanks
El__burro
i can

[Johnwebley]

check they have two circuits each,

 use a multi meter and connect both plug leads ,you should get a reading,
also the normal cables,check the circuit on those,treat each coil separately ,

[El__burro]

I have done the test suggested above and it gives me continuity when i connect either the blu and black/white or the yellow and the bl/w.
My issue is when i connect the HT leads from the same coil, they both read about 14.0 ohms but no continuity.
Faulty?

Thanks
El__burro
Cb750 k2

[El__burro]

Today I've reset the points just to make sure. Gap was ok while the plate was way off.
Still making the adjustment hasn't given me any sparks.
Also when the starter motor turns I can hear a squeaky noise,  is it because it has no oil?

Thanks
 http://youtu.be/TwtZYIsBtwk
   

[El__burro]

Me again,  tested both condensers and they are good. Still no sparks. Just seen a spark on the (2-3) plugs when I shorten the 2-3 points to th the frame.
Also, starter motor turns even when I turn off (disconnect the black/wire and black) the kill switch.

Any idea?
Any one?

El__ burro

[Lobo]

Hi El_burro,

Your last sentence (above post) quite correct... the kill switch only kills the ignition (spark) & not the cranking of the starter motor.

You sound to be having a frustrating time, I'm no guru on these bikes but would be trying this if it were mine....

I assume the carbs, fuel, air delivery all upto spec.... waste of time if not. (Fresh petrol... not 5 yrs old with water in it.... fuel filter not clogged etc?) Also battery nicely charged up.

Safety.
I'm suggesting getting the wiring as basic as possible to rule out problems here.... there may be a tiny electrical spark on starting the engine... so please ensure no loose petrol, kids about, tank cap on etc. 

What to try.
Using fresh wire, ie bypassing the bike's kill switch can I suggest the following 'test set-up'. (If the starter is cranking fine then leave the heavy duty wires in place, ie those beefy 8mm or so ones)

Run a 'thin' wire from the battery +ve to one side (small post) of the starter solenoid, and to the other solenoid (small post) run another 'thin' wire.... leaving the end loose, but long enough to touch the -ve battery terminal. This will be your starter switch... expect a SMALL spark, nothing scary.

Run a 2nd 'thin' wire (also) from the battery +ve to the coils via a bullet connector. This bullet connector should split into two, and feed both the coils... normally each with a Black / White wire. Each coil, via its other (Blue or Yellow) wire then goes to the contact breaker points, through those, and to earth. (see accompanying pages for points set-up). (Condensers of course must be in place)

The bullet connector mentioned above will be your 'kill switch'.... ie the means of powering the ignition / stopping the engine. Not ideal, but good enough for trouble shooting to rule out other electrical gremlins...

To start the engine..
(1) ensure coils powered via double bullet connector, (terminal B)
(2) crank starter by touching wire A to the battery - ve terminal (or any good earth) (slight spark, after cranking / start ensure A kept away from earth / -ve battery terminal

It took me a while to fathom, but my K2 starts best (on the button) with full choke & Full (WOT) throttle. Yours, may of course be very different.

To stop the engine
(1) Pull bullet connectors (both)
(2) choke (on or off... whatever it takes)
(3) rear brake, assuming in gear & on the centre stand. Be careful! No kids about...
(4) Pair of scissors / pliers to cut the battery lead to bullet connector!

On another thead you mentioned HT coil resistance @ 14 ohms.... if this is the case this coil would appear to be duff.... it should be somewhere in the region of 10-20 K ohms.

If you have a strobe light, this can be a good indication of HT (sparks) output. Check both coils.

Finally, if you're not comfortable with any of the above... don't do it.

Cheers & happy spannering,
Simon

[Bryanj]

If you have no spark as you say start from scratch and check voltage at every connection and that the points are assembled correctly

[El__burro]

Thanks Lobo,
Yes, i am starting to be very frustrated with this.
I have done a coil test and if i check between the primary coils ( blue  and black/ white i have the 4.5 ohms as you also state.
When i check the Secondary coils, i have resistance of about 14.28 ohms.
I saw a test on youtube where i had to check for resistance between one primary and one secondary coil lead. ( or probably i got it wrong)
That test said nothing.

I have set the points gap to 3-4 mms.
Not sure if F mark and gap opening match.
I'll check this now.

Thanks for your support.
El__burro

[hairygit]

3-4mm points gap? That seems rather large, should be 15-18thousandths of an inch, cant remember what the foreign metric rubbish setting is, but it's less than 1mm