2 Extra wires from my rectifier

[Drew400]

Hi all,

My non-standard solid state rectifier has a black and a white wire coming from it with male spades on the end (see picture below). Inevitably perhaps, my photos of the dismantling aren't clear enough to work out where these wires go.

There's only the 3 x yellow, 1 x green and 1 x red wires shown on the wiring diagrams that I have. There's also no branding on the device to look up on t'interwebnet.

Can you help?

Thank you, D.

[Bryanj]

Thats 'cos its a regulator as well. You need the proper instructions for it as there is no standard for aftermarket parts

[Lobo]

Hi Drew,

Your unit is actually a regulator / rectifier... ie those two spare wires are for the regulator part of the circuit.

(and consequently you can remove the OEM regulator - ie 'black box' with G/W/B connections - first pic.)

If Honda compatible the black will connect to the loom feed which went to the OEM regulator (& is +12v DC @ ignition ON)
If Honda compatible the white will connect to the loom feed which went to the OEM regulator (& connects to the alternator)

(The left over GREEN (ie earth) from your (removed) OEM regulator can be taped up out of the way - your reg/rectifier unit has already got its earthing from the rectifier loom plug on the battery side of the bike)

The final (embarrassing) pic is my 750K2 as PO had wired it. Hmmm. The unit does look like yours... and indeed it did work, so I'd probably be confident to give it a try...

Hope this helps,
Simon

[Drew400]

Ha ha, I spent ages cleaning and painting the old regulator (see pic) which I guess was left there by the previous owner/owners without me realising it wasn't wired in! I guess it helps if you know what you're looking at, eh?

Thanks for the help guys.

We might get this baby running one day!

Cheers,

D.

[Lobo]

Drew... your mission for March is to make that wiring .... beautiful.
"Can do better"!

Simon

[AshimotoK0]

There needs to be a current controlled through the field coil which induces magnetism into the crank rotor. The alternator output is controlled by adjusting the current in the field coil. I guess the extra two wires are used for field coil excitation but the reg/rectifier would specifically have to be designed for the Honda4 SOHC I would think. If you are not using that part of the regulator/rectifier and using the standard unit  regulator unit, I guess you would just insulate and tape away the spare wires.

Ash

[Drew400]

Yes indeed: the red thing (electronic ignition unit) is now under the seat. I have a solenoid cover on order. Sadly, no luck as yet with my 'desperately seeking' fuse box cover and my solenoid-to-loom connector will be here tomorrow! It won't be perfick but it will be better, sir.

Cheers, D.

[Drew400]

Ash, I think I understand about 50% of your post but I'm grateful for your expertise.

The good news is that the bike came with that unit and was running well until I pulled it all apart. So I'm confident it will work again with this bit of kit and without the old regulator wired in (one of my old photos does after all show that it wasn't connected to the black and white cables).

Cheers,

D.

[Lobo]

Alas... that bloody fuse box cover does go walk-about as it were. I was in the same boat as you but ended up buying a whole new fuse box...

Good luck in your hunt!

[AshimotoK0]

Ash, I think I understand about 50% of your post but I'm grateful for your expertise.

The good news is that the bike came with that unit and was running well until I pulled it all apart. So I'm confident it will work again with this bit of kit and without the old regulator wired in (one of my old photos does after all show that it wasn't connected to the black and white cables).

Cheers,

D.

Hmm mystery how that works then? Without power to the field coil on a Honda 4 ( the centre coil with two wires only)  you will be reliant on the very, very low permanent magnetism in the rotor, which theoretically should give you sod all output or nothing at all. If it was a twin that would be different because they have permanent magnet rotors. The Honda/4 charging system was state of the art when it came out because it doesn't use brushes and slip rings like all of the car Alternators at that time. That centre coil when powered up 'induces' electro-magnetism into the rotating steel rotor on the end of the crank without using slip rings. The standard regulator servers to adjust the current through that centre 'field' coil and vary the alternator output as demanded by the electrical systems/battery on the bike. Not trying to confuse you just puzzled!


Ash

[hairygit]

Ash, I think he's saying that he is using the stock regulator, and only the rectifier part of the aftermarket box, so should work okay.

[mike the bike]

Drew mentioned that the stock regulator wasn't wired in so the plot gets ever thicker.  Perhaps the extra 2 wires in the reg /rec are used to energise the primary coil

[AshimotoK0]

Ash, I think he's saying that he is using the stock regulator, and only the rectifier part of the aftermarket box, so should work okay.

Yes that would work