Cb750 dual disk upgrade

[El__burro]

Where on here?

[Bryanj]

cant do picture mods but it is the lump imediately under the bolt head when you had it mounted, sorry cant make it simpler than that

[El__burro]

cant do picture mods but it is the lump imediately under the bolt head when you had it mounted, sorry cant make it simpler than that

Thanks for trying Bryanj.
Could you upload a link instead.
Bolt head?

The bike came disassembled.
Many thanks for your support

el__burro

[tom400f]

I'm following this with interest though that said I just want to validate my assumptions:

1. The caliper arm is being mounted on the other side so the lugs on it that would have kept the pivot proud of the fork leg are facing the wheel, not the fork, and are therefore useless in this regard
2. This means the pivot abuts the fork leg when the arm is mounted, preventing it from being tightened down
3. Solution to 2 is to add spacers to push the arm out (well in I suppose) so the pivot clears but this means the aforementioned lugs put the bolt heads in the spokes.

Shaving the lugs on the forks is going the wrong way (not to mention compromising the strength of the mounting)
So... shave off the (now redundant) height from the lugs on the arm so there is enough room for the bolts. Should be no need to shorten the bolts because that space has now been made by the aforementioned spacers.

Tom to mission control - is that affirmative?

[El__burro]

Thanks for your "assumption".
Very much needed.
I guess, we said no front fender involved.
It definitely better without it.

El__burro

[El__burro]

Thanks for your "assumption".
Very much needed.
I guess, we said no front fender involved.
It definitely better without it.

El__burro

[tom400f]

Ok but the front mudguard is both good and bad in this context:

Good:
1. acts as a fork brace (I assume this is also the case on the 750 as it is on the 400...) so if you omit it something else will be necessary
2. Erm, finishes the bike off nicely as per Mr Honda intended...

Bad:
Extra material making the original problem worse. You still need the same amount of shimming but now the bolts are even further out (or in, as per your preferred reference point). This means more coming off the brake arm to accommodate things on the wheel side.

I'm only looking at this from a common sense point of view. I didn't follow the bit about different fork lowers or Honda kits from the period... just wondering if shaving the lugs on the brake arm would do anything to compromise its strength, since the braking force is going through there. But otoh you are spreading the load across two now.

Only trying to make sense of it all, that's all 

[El__burro]

Like this?
Please say Yes.

Thanks
El__burro

[Bryanj]

I think so if that is the correct way round. The bolt "Head" is the hexagon you put the spanner on

[tom400f]

Again from my lay perspective, yes those areas. Effectively, you're putting the metal you're taking off that side on to the other side in the form of your shims.

How much do you need to take off relative to the total thickness? Relative to the height of the bolt head? Just wondering out of curiosity.

And why does the lug already look like Kryten?

Good luck. Tom

[El__burro]

After making it look better (no more Kryten) and shaving off the other redundant support, I am moving to fitting the pipeline.
Is brake tubing 90/10 cupro-nickel any good?

Thanks
El__Burro

[Bryanj]

Yes but if you are making your own and usind original flexibles you need to modify an M10x1 flare nut or it will not seal

[El__burro]

Modify an m10x1, how?
I've almost messed up the threat in that calliper.

I'm glad I can use the flaring kit I bought over 3 years ago.
Now just need to see where to pass the pipes (inside or outside of the forks).

Thanks
El__burro

[Bryanj]

The brake pipe nuts on Hondas are NOT the same as other metric cars and the one that goes into the flexible pipe has no threads at the end. If that does not make sense as brakes are life critical you realy should have it done by somebody who knows sorry

[tom400f]

The other option you have is to use flexible hoses all the way to the caliper.