CB400 Project

[tom400f]

No cam bearings in a 400F Dave, just the alloy.

[beemsquar]

Ah thats my bad dave, I'm still new to the terminology!

Cheers sweetpeauk, thats a big help! I'll give him a call and mention you recommended him.

I started looking at my cush rubbers earlier and they don't look to good either, I've tried removing one, but bloody hell there in there! How on earth do you go about removing the damn things? Theres no way to push them out the back.

I've drilled the rubber out of one and managed to release the inner part but the outer part is so thin and stuck to the hub. I read a post on hear about removing them, but wondered if anyone else has tried this and what method they used?

Back to the crankcase for now, and I'll check those pistons while i'm at it.

Oh and I managed to get a picture of the scoring in the second cylinder bore.

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[Saisei]

No cam bearings in a 400F Dave, just the alloy.
[/quote

How does that work? I am confused

[sweetpeauk]

If you are splitting the cases I have the clutch hub nut tool and a basket holding tool if you need help.

[beemsquar]

Saisei, I know it seems strange just to rely on the head itself as a bearing, as now its this badly scored it seems the only option is a replacement head, or at least that's what the clymer manual says.

That would be a massive help sweetpea, thank you! I'll take all the advice and help I can get.

I'm going to have a play removing a few more parts tomorrow, then should be up to that point.

Where are you based?

Feel free to PM me and we'll arrange something between us.

I had an awful time trying to remove the cush rubbers this evening, I know my limits and think I might have to take them somewhere to be removed, I don't want to damage the hubs.

[Chris400F]

My bid is in on the S/S downpipes  . The silencer is Brituro has anyone used them?

I see the auction ended at £131.99 which sounds like a good price to me.
Did it go to anyone on here?

On the camshaft bearing front, I know people used to do conversions for the 250/360 G5 engines which also used to
wear the bearing surfaces, although I was never sure what they did with the centre bearing. Is it possible to do anything
similar with the 400 engine?

[Saisei]

My bid is in on the S/S downpipes  . The silencer is Brituro has anyone used them?

I see the auction ended at £131.99 which sounds like a good price to me.
Did it go to anyone on here?

On the camshaft bearing front, I know people used to do conversions for the 250/360 G5 engines which also used to
wear the bearing surfaces, although I was never sure what they did with the centre bearing. Is it possible to do anything
similar with the 400 engine?

 

[Chris400F]

I'll take that as a yes then ....

Might be interesting to keep an eye on the eBay shop to see if any more sets come up for sale.
May yet manage to save beemsquar some pennies on his rebuild costs.

[Saisei]

I am open to offers if anyone wants it. Otherwise it goes on my site/fleabay

[Nurse Julie]

Sorry, very late to this thread but I have a Brituro silencer on original down pipes on my 400/4. The silencer seems to do the job quite nicely
Julie

[beemsquar]

I do like the look of the Brituro silencer Julie, I don't suppose you could upload a video with the sound could you please? Im interested to know what setups people are using and how they sound.

Damn if I was at that stage of my build I would have bid on that
I've just plowed some more money into the bike, I took the rocker cover, head and block to a local machine shop to see what they could do and the guy just said "I wouldnt bother mate"Its not economically viable to repair them.

In the meantime I have ordered a used rocker cover, cylinder head, cylinder block and a low millage camshaft and sprocket from Steve at 400fourbits, for a very reasonable price!

The rest will have to wait until next month, when I will order a new piston and ring set with gudgeon pins etc, a full gasket and oil seal set.

Oh and inspect the crankcase and its contents with the aim to put the engine back together again between now and September.

[Nurse Julie]

No problem, I will record it at the weekend

[beemsquar]

Awesome thank you Julie, I look forward to it.

[beemsquar]

Ok, I've been away from the project for a while as I was on holiday and was waiting for tools and bits to come back from the blaster.

Ive had the cush drive rubbers removed from the rear hub by a machinist as they were a bugger to get out, but I was sent the wrong cush drives twice by M&P direct, who then told me they don't sell them for my bike! I thought £14 for a set was too good to be true, there £11 each from DSS!!!

I have now been able to remove the clutch as I was waiting for my clutch holding tool to arrive in the post and have split the cases today.

I need a new gear for the gearbox as it's got part of the teeth missing.

I used a green plastigauge ( I was given red wax and a green gauge) which measures between 0.175mm-0.5mm and measured all the bearings, I'm not sure I've done it right as the Clymer manual says to place the wax bit between the bearing and the crankshaft and check the clearance is not greater than 0.08mm, but the plastigauge instructions says to put the wax bit between the journal and the bearing.

The main bearing shells look OK to me, no scratches or pitting,  but could anyone tell me there thoughts? No 3 on the top looks a bit scratched.

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I hear Bryanj is good at this stuff.

After reading the post on this forum "Do you need to fully torque down when measuring bearing wear with Plastigauge?" I think I have deciphered the codes on my crankshaft, from the rotor I have A A A A  and 2 2 2 1 2 on the crank and on the conrods they read 1C 1C 1C 2C, I'm not sure the 2 is correct, could be a one, its very hard to tell.

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The code stamped on the block is BBBBC and the shells are as follows....

Bottom                                    TOP
1-Green-D2I A STD               1-Green-D2I A STD
2-Green-D2I A STD               2-Green- D2I A STD
3-?-D0I A STD                      3-?- D0I A STD
4-?-D3L A STD                      4-?-D3L A STD
5-Green-D2I A STD               5-Green- D2I A STD

So am I right in saying that the main bearing code is B2, B2, B2, B1, C2?
Im confused about the big end bearings though and where do I find what colour I need? The Clymer book just has a letter code without number.

I've read other posts I just can't get my head around it!

Any help would be greatly appreciated as always.

[beemsquar]

OK, I've double checked this and the number 2 on the second cam from the left in the picture should be on the furthest cam on the right.

So going over the codes again gives me

B2, B2, B1, B2, C2 for the main bearings and A1, A1, A1, A2

I work this out to be brown, brown, green, brown black, which is weird as the shells that are in there now are definitely all green except for the 2 that have no colour left on them and all look quite newish. I have the same problem Royhall had in a previous post that black are discontinued!!!!
 I have no means of measuring the crank etc accurately, any suggestions?

The conrods then would be red, red, red, yellow?

Can anyone shed any light on this??