Re-liner, Rebore

[Greg65]

I had a rotating bolt with some friction left. I took it to my local garage who had an air gun, he removed it with one burst. Best fiver I spent after several hours of frustration. Hope this helps.

Greg

[Bryanj]

When i had access to a compressor an air gun with 3/6 drive long allen key never failed

[Spitfire]

Here's what I did with mine when I had the same problem, same sort of thing but with a bit of tension thrown in.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=25963.msg266074#msg266074

Cheers

Dennis

[matthewmosse]

Re bores, I pass them on to my local motorbike shop who sub the job out to a firm nearby, that way the motorbike shop guy can be sure to source the right piston for the job and he knows they will do the right clearences and do a tidy job as he sends a lot of work to them. I think the actual reboringbis done by a firm called Posterns, in Abermule, what is surprising is the lad running the bike shop is able to get nicasil coated bores re bored etc. The bike shop is mid Wales motoX - he does do road bikes too.
Regards fork disassembly - I am a firm believer in the broom handle method, not failed me yet, though there is always a first time. Failing that a mamoth tool supply so you can put together enough extension bits on a sockett set to reach right down to the damper rod - not sure about 400/4 but most times I have done a set of forks there has been an allen head on the top of the damper rod.

[exvalvesetdabbler]

I got mine out by clamping the leg upside down in a B+D workmate bench and compressing it as much as I could against the floor with two people sitting on the bench, then whacked it with a lump hammer and impact driver. Put a bit of wood underneath to save scuffing the chromed nut.

Dave.

[AshimotoK0]

If you look at the Honda shop manual they tell you to apply thread lock to the screw, which means once slackened there is still a fair amount of friction on the threads, which means that the damper rod turns in preference to the screw. So you just need a way of applying friction to the end of the damper rod. Like the broom handle method. Those Honda manuals are great on some things , sadly  lacking on others like how to remove the 'cush drive' bushes from the rear hub as used on CB400/F/CB350F, CB250/350K/360G5 etc.