Original Finishes CB750K0 engine PLUS CB500 Four

[Orcade-Ian]

I've got to say that I had not thought of a thin coat of silver under the lacquer - makes a lot of sense though and is why we can't really replicate it after polishing. As we know, it wasn't that good really and if you rode on salt laden roads just once and didn't rinse it down, then that familiar mottled effect developed by the following day. 
As a complete philistine, I have frequently paint stripped NOS parts to remove the lacquer (and now seemingly this silver base coat) preferring just a polished and waxed finish which I find much easier to keep clean.  I wonder if anyone knows what silver base was used and if it would still look correct under a more durable 2 pack lacquer.
You've opened a can of worms here Ash - do you know how many flakes of metal per square inch  there should be in the paint on my tank?
Ian

[ST1100]

So why not simply use Alodine 1001 on the now coat-less, polished aluminium surfaces before clear coating them?
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797999529985

[AshimotoK0]

So why not simply use Alodine 1001 on the now coat-less, polished aluminium surfaces before clear coating them?
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797999529985

Considered it but hard to get hold of  in the UK , very expensive and VERY toxic, possibly a carcinogen. Surprisingly though the safety data sheet on the dip you use to passivate zinc plate (very cheap from Gateros plating) states it  contains Chromic acid and Hydroflouric acids!  I know for a fact that the aerospace industry used Chromate dip to promote adhesion as I think does Vic World the CB750 sandcast guru in the States on the likes of alloy fork sliders etc.

http://gaterosplating.co.uk/Replacement-Items.php

Scroll down to this:-

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[AshimotoK0]

Evidently Vic World gave a talk on finishes etc in 2009 in Ohio to the SOOC boys but sadly nobody videoed it (well not to my knowledge). Bet the 'acid' mentioned  in the article pic below was Chromic acid.

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WILL INVESTIGATE THE GATEROS SAFETY DATASHEETS . possibly the blue passivate may do the trick. Dunno...will report back .

[ST1100]

Considered it but hard to get hold of  in the UK , very expensive and VERY toxic, possibly a carcinogen.

Alodine 1132 would be a rinse free solution, so no toxic waste water to be worried about.
But we've some hobby pilots and hangar crews around, I'll stretch my feelers to check what their using.

http://gaterosplating.co.uk/Replacement-Items.php
Black passivate, enough to make 5 litres of passivate  £24.99

The black passivate sounds interesting, always wondered how that's done.
Fine for a number of brackets around bikes, MCs, switch housings or those carb rubber clips.

Question on the Cloud Silver Metallic spray engine colour from this source: http://www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/shop-paints.php?colourscheme=13724&30077=on
- how close is it to the original Honda engine paint? (will it stand out as "fake" or "acceptable" to a knowing person?)
- does it really require the lacquer coat as suggested on the shopping cart?
- will the paint require curing in an oven, or could that be done on the engine by letting it warm up?

[AshimotoK0]

Don't think the black passivate is any good for alloy only steel (like carb clips, fork top yoke D spacers etc). For M/Cyl , switch bodies i think  you need anodizing or PJ1 Satin Black baked on in an oven then given a quick buff with Solvol.

[ST1100]

For M/Cyl , switch bodies i think  you need anodizing or PJ1 Satin Black baked on in an oven...

hmm, is that PJ1 paint resistant against brake fluid?
Currently my friend is struggling with some (expensive) BF-resistive 2-K paint for the M/C on his z750... quite a hustle it seems... (as he did not listen to me to wait for my soda blaster to arrive first... would have provided the clean, nice surface required for an easy application with durable result...)

[AshimotoK0]

For M/Cyl , switch bodies i think  you need anodizing or PJ1 Satin Black baked on in an oven...

hmm, is that PJ1 paint resistant against brake fluid?
Currently my friend is struggling with some (expensive) BF-resistive 2-K paint for the M/C on his z750... quite a hustle it seems... (as he did not listen to me to wait for my soda blaster to arrive first... would have provided the clean, nice surface required for an easy application with durable result...)

Not saying it's BF resistant totally but  it's what a top CB750 restorer uses and who wrote the definitive book on the CB750. If you are careful anyway, you can avoid getting BF on the M/Cyl. You can remove the old anodizing using caustic soda on switches.

[AshimotoK0]

So why not simply use Alodine 1001 on the now coat-less, polished aluminium surfaces before clear coating them?
http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797999529985

Found this languishing on someone's shelf during today's travels and 'stole' it . For Christ's sake don't Google it. main ingredient of 'Alodine'

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