Clutch switch?

[hairygit]

Yes, kill switches do fail. and short circuiting them is the cheapest fix. They tend to get dirt and corrosion inside, and often the engine will cut out going over a bump or similar, or wont start until you fiddle/tap the kill switch. As regards the throttle closing cable, just replace the twistgrip tube with the correct item with 2 cable slots in it (e bay or d.s.s., around a tenner) and then fit the second cable.

[MrDavo]

I've just bought the 2 nipple throttle tube and 'push' cable on the Bay of Fleas. I will check out the kill switch, if it's 'iffy' I'll leave well alone for now, unless a NOS one comes up at some time.

[MrDavo]

All back together and (finally) working, after much faffing about with connections and badly labelled wires. After ages staring at a poor copy of a K0 wiring diagram before I went to bed I realised what I had done wrong, dreamed about wiring it correctly, then the next day went out and wired it correctly first time.

The twin throttle cable is in place, I should never notice unless the throttle tries to jam open. I had to consult the internet for a clear photo when I realised I didn't know how the push/pull cables worked at the twistgrip end.

After much rechecking of the right indicator wiring connections I found my problem is that there is a 'knack' to the worn switch - it needs a good firm 'click' - a half hearted slide and it seems to 'stall' and stop working at all. Cleaning has improved it but spares to refurbish the switch aren't available. Here's hoping the MOT tester understands -as long as I know how to work it that's OK!

[Greebo]

My K6 will only start/turnover if in neutral & only when the neutral light is lit, or it will start in gear on the clutch.  No side stand saftey switch needed.