Time for you 500/4 guys to pass on your wisdom !

[Trigger]

Common problem with any bolt that has not moved since 1971, get a blow touch on it until it starts to glow and it will fall out easy.

[matthewmosse]

I just hope you dont get one as stubborn as the last one Iihad stuck in that position, even heated to red hot I found it wouldn't budge, it did break the web that held the nut in position under the engine, then I had to gas axe it out. Deffinately use soaking in wd40 or plus gas or my favorite, old engine oil and wd40 mixed, and heat rather than force. Worth cutting the bolt head off I think.

[Johnwebley]

I have heard that diesel fuel makes a good penetrating fluid,and fairly cheep at £1.10 a litre

[AshimotoK0]

Cheers for replies .. So plenty of heat then Graham........  we have a Mapp gas burner at work I will borrow that. I did think of cutting off the head of the  bolts Matt  but what do you do if the steel in corroded and seized into the alloy as you need to push the remains of the bolt through? suppose you could carefully drill it out.  All the other bolts on the bike came out really easily... buy yea 44 years is a long time to corrode. I wan't to be really careful on this one so as not to damage the cases.

[matthewmosse]

I know what you mean about not wanting to dammage cases having done this myself, but luckily on a nondescript cb550k3 with a non original engine. I think if the heat route doesn't work then I would try to cut through the nut ( just one side would quite likely be enough, - use of a dremel to finish the cut once too close for comfort with Mr grinder ) on the underside of the engine as on mine it was the nut attempting to turn as I applied torque that split the webbing on the crankcase, in reality, purely cosmetic bar the inconvienience of having to apply a 17mm spanner rather than rely on captive nut but on a 500k0 I can see you don't want that.
If that failed then probably cutting the head off the bolt and parrellel pin punch the remains out, if that is not budgingit then a 1mm slitting disk in the grinder, turn the bike on its side and use a pry bar to just open the frame enough to get the disk between frame and engine casing before removing all other bolts, then drill out anything that won't punch out. I deal with a lot of bolts this age and that siezed up at work and some have litreally needed completely drilling out, even that last 1/2 mm down just one side of the hole. I hope yours is not that siezed up.

[AshimotoK0]

Great advice Matt ...bet you must get some really rusted bits of machinery at your place.

[matthewmosse]

At home a lot of our kit is 1900's - latest projects through the door 3x howard gems ranging from 1948 to 1960's. At work stuff is not quite that old but some of it may have done 30 years bagging rock salt and being sat outdoors. I have worked on bulk baggers for aggregates that have worn through or rusted out 3 distinct layers of repairs done in 6mm steel plate. Lucky me is now the chap responsible for most of the welding repairs and patching and shot blasting of these 12 foot tall monstrosities if they come in used.

[Trigger]

Are your foot pegs like this Ash ? >>> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1971-Honda-CB500-Four-KO-OEM-Front-Foot-Peg-Brackets-6-/141819872691?hash=item21051f85b3:g:PCQAAOSw3ydV6fnT

[Trigger]

Never seen one of these before, Frank says it is OEM >>>http://www.ebay.de/itm/CB500-K0-K2-CB550-Auspuff-rechts-IR-right-muffler-CB500-4-FOUR-Schalldampfer-/151875992212?hash=item235c83ba94:g:kv4AAOSwwbdWO0et

[AshimotoK0]

Will check footpegs as I am bead-blasting them after work. ( wife away in London  )

Never seen separate silencer ---  only one-piece but I am no expert.

[AshimotoK0]

Here goes Graham


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