To beep or not to beep

[Bryanj]

I would never have believed It (Meldrew Moment) but if it works it works.

I would be tempted to keep filling with WD to make sure no corrosion sets in.

Just as an aside you do know that WD40 is called that because it was the 40th Water Displacing formula on trial that worked

[SteveD CB500K0]

ACF50?

SDoc100?

[Bryanj]

True, but WD was the first that worked, when in the trade we used the Castrol equivalent as it was less than half the price, also Duck Oil which penetrated as well but didn't seem to waterproof as well

[MCTID]

I worked on a contract in Canada in the 70's at a Machine Tool Company....they bought Machine Tools at Auction/ Factory Clearances in the UK and shipped them to Canada where they were in great demand - that's when the UK Manufacturing Industry was being sold off lock, stock and barrel.

Anyway....the Canadian Factory was flooded when the adjacent river broke its banks, and my job was to get the machinery up and running and ready for sale. The large number of motors and electrical controls which we stripped and dried out kept me busy for 4/5 months. Having stripped out the guts, we used to give the windings a real good dose of WD40, then stick in a 100W light bulb and cover everything in bacofoil. After 24 hours, most of the motors worked again.

I still swear by WD40 and practically every time I lift the bonnet of my car, the electrical components get a good squirt of it........I can't remember the last time my car(s) ever failed to start or an electrical fault let me down.

[Clem2112]

I'll be putting the old (supposedly dead) OE horn in the Maplin mini U-Sonic later....

If it works I might spray ACF 50 in it afterwards to preserve it
 - if the inside contains no rubber parts  ... anyone know?

[Woodside]

Don't worry its still got loads of wd in it..In fact it's still dripping out

[ST1100]

If it works I might spray ACF 50 in it afterwards to preserve it
 - if the inside contains no rubber parts  ... anyone know?

I've yet not seen/experienced/heard of any issues with ACF-50 and rubber (and I use that "snake oil" a lot), but I do know that some folks use WD-40 to soften (old, hardened) cab-isolators and air-box connectors... go figure...

Had an LOL on the "soup of the day" remark    Nice trick though!

[Alex jb]

Top tip chaps!
I used to scrape through my MOT test every year with the 'phut' sound my RDLC350 horns used to make, as the 2 horn units made their feeble squeak slightly out of sync, it was just enough to get a pass, wish I'd done this!

[Spitfire]

Great idea, I had cleaned up and refinished the original horn on my F1 only to find that it didn't work, so I replaced it with an eBay item, I must dig it out and try this method on it, that is if I did not bin it.

Cheers

Dennis

[taysidedragon]

Go boil your horn! Unbelievable, a great tip. 

[Clem2112]

Found my old grubby original with its plastic cover and the special nut to mount it.
I made up a stainless bracket for the pea sized aftermarket horn I fitted for the inaugural MoT , so the mont hole will need opening up if I get the proper one working.

Not sure if u-sonic will help at this point as it's so greasy on the outside -
In days of old, petrol was the best cleaner !

[Clem2112]

Ultrasonic worked a treat after the horn was degreased with jizer.
It took 3 goes before the water stayed clear.
After draining , I dried it out on a radiator for an hour, connected it up and adjusted to get a decent noise.
It just needs some paint now, then the plastic cover can go on.   

[Liam]

Thought I'd up-date this thread.  Just spent a couple of days trying to sort the original horn on my 750F...  Last resort was boiling.  Wish I tried this first off.  Works like a treat now.  I dried it out for twenty minutes in a fan oven at a low temp and sprayed everything with WD40 before reinstallation...  boom!

Who'd a thought!