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Dehydration plug

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ST1100:
LOL!  ;D
Methinks protecting the combustion chamber on a motorcycle engine seems fairly easy, just remove the plugs, spray some conserving oil down there (like ACF-50), maybe spin the engine a bit to flush it around, and put the plugs back in.

If not run at least once a week, fumes, thus the by-products in the crank case are a different issue (especially with that wet ethanol fuel these days...), I've to admit that an "engine saver" circulating dry air (like an enclosed system between breather and oil filler), does seem to make sense...
AFAIK are there also oil additives avail, supposed to limit corrosion on crank, rods etc... but one needs to flush that out when putting the engine back into service.

shifter:
This simple threaded plug contained a capsule  of desiccant ,screwed. Into the spark plug hole and soaks up moisture,when the yellow capsule turns blue, it's saturated indicating that it's time to pull off the cap and replace the capsule, this plug keeps the relative humidity in the engine down to less than 35% was stated,,
Just wondered if some members who haven't a well insulated , heated workshop, would benifit from this item , instead of squirting some untold liquids into the bores and perhaps doing unforeseen  damage to the internals ,
 PS, these Dehydrration plugs were available for around £10 for two inc four capsules ,

ST1100:
What has bitten you?  ;)
After all am I on your side in this... only that I think humidity (thus acids) in oil & crankcase need to be addressed as well.
I also wrote spray not pour...

And as for "untold liquids": http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle/default.htm

royhall:
If it's absolutely necessary, I think I would rather squirt some engine oil in the bores and spin it over with the plugs out to evenly coat the bores valves etc.

From experience with ACF50, it appears to quite good at removing oil from surfaces so 'I to' would be hesitant to spray it into the bores.

Of course I may be completely wrong, may be best to email the manufacturer of ACF50 after Christmas.

Running the engine to full hot once a week would probably be a better bet all round. Make sure it is fully hot though or your exhausts will rot away.

shifter:
Quite agree with you Roy , regarding the use of Acf 50, but I thought even starting it regularly it will still condensate after heating then cooling down  ,
I didn't think this topic would go this far as I was only interested to know if a similar easy item was on the market, as it seems very practical with llttle effort ,  I used this in the past in my TR ,,

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