Author Topic: TEST RIDE #1  (Read 5645 times)

Offline Johnwebley

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #15 on: June 27, 2016, 11:46:25 AM »
What's the headrace?
Thanks for your help
el__burro



  the long stem that swivels the forks in the frame,it should be be almost a gentle fit,defo not loose,but to tight makes the steering iffy

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=motorcycle+headstock&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj74YG9g8jNAhXnJMAKHegiBxYQsAQIGw


  see pics




lifelong motorcycle rider,and fan

Offline El__burro

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #16 on: June 27, 2016, 11:39:03 PM »
so, remove the top joke and loosen the bolt (no 6 in the image)?

Thanks
El__burro
« Last Edit: June 27, 2016, 11:40:54 PM by El__burro »

Offline hairygit

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #17 on: June 27, 2016, 11:55:58 PM »
No need to disturb the top yoke, get a C spanner (similar to the one for adjusting the rear shocks) and it can be accessed, or you may be able to tap it round with a punch.
If it's got tits or wheels, it's hassle, if it's got both, RUN!!!

Offline Trigger

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #18 on: June 28, 2016, 06:45:47 AM »
Are you sure it is the head bearings ? If you have done it café style by lowering the front end and longer shocks on the rear, you have altered the rake and it will wobble in a bend and at high speed.

Offline Bryanj

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #19 on: June 28, 2016, 11:32:01 AM »
You do not need to remove the yoke but you do need to loosen the top nut and the two pinch bolts on the yoke at the forks to allow everything to move easy

Offline El__burro

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #20 on: June 28, 2016, 10:20:45 PM »
Latest update
I have followed your instructions and have losened the nut as suggested, went for a ride and I felt a better handling unfortunately I could also feel some play in the tree area going over speed bumps.
I tighten it a bit towards a stiffer ride for now.
How loose should it actually be?
Thanks
el__burro

Offline Johnwebley

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #21 on: June 28, 2016, 10:41:15 PM »
loose enough for easy movement,but no play !!



  can you raise the front end ?? so you can turn from lock to lock,and also try and lift op and down the forks ,see if you feel any movement,

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fi_fmONC9Jg

 this video may help


 
lifelong motorcycle rider,and fan

Offline El__burro

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TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #22 on: August 24, 2016, 03:43:55 PM »
no improvement on the 2 issues.
A) The engine struggles on the second part of the throttle
B) The bike seems a bit too stiff on the front end.

a) I have changed the airscrew mix setting of the carbs a few (hundreds) times but its not getting better.
I should mention that I have replaced the (stock) air filter with air cones.
The spark plugs are carbon fouled (see picture in previous post).
Is there anyway to check which carb is at fault. I have managed to sync the carbs.
b) Probably best solution is to replace top and bottom bearings, any advice on shopping?
Ps I have mounted clip ons.

Thanks
el__burro
« Last Edit: August 24, 2016, 03:45:54 PM by El__burro »

Offline Johnwebley

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #23 on: August 24, 2016, 04:02:13 PM »
the plugs read over rich,try it without the aircleaners on,

also,check the ignition timing,it could be retarded,

 the air screws on control the first 1/4 of the throttle,

 as for the front seeming stiff? heavy ?
 check your tyre pressures,

 try thinner fork oil,remember,with clip-ons,you won't get the leverage of wider normal bars
lifelong motorcycle rider,and fan

Offline El__burro

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #24 on: September 07, 2016, 12:36:23 AM »
I have probably mentioned a few times before but..
I replaced the stock air filter with some pods.
could this be the cause of the poor running.
(when I pull the second half of the throttle).

I have adjusted the timing (which was ok)
I will be sincronisyng the carbs next.
I was just thinking about re jetting.
Could this help?
Another hint is that the 2-3 plug look very close to perfection
while 1-4 look very carbon fouled.

el_burro

Offline El__burro

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #25 on: September 15, 2016, 11:16:53 PM »
Sorted one issue..
I have cleaned and synchronised the carbs, set the floats to spec, adjusted the timing, adjusted the valves gap, I've gone for a ride and..
GREAT, no more struggle at half throttle.
My other issue is still there though, steering is a bit stiff/wobbly.
Tried to loosen/tighten the head race, tyre pressure is ok, front wheel is ok..
Probably replacing top and bottom bearings could be a good idea.
Any suggestion? (how many balls does the top bearing have 18?)

Thanks
el__burro

Offline hairygit

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #26 on: September 16, 2016, 07:36:58 AM »
Far easier to use taper roller bearings than separate and fiddly balls! Not a good idea to replace just the balls, the tracks/races would need replacing as well to do the job properly, otherwise it would be like fitting new shells to a knackered crank, a lot of work, that wouldn't last long!
If it's got tits or wheels, it's hassle, if it's got both, RUN!!!

Offline El__burro

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #27 on: September 16, 2016, 09:44:34 AM »
I am trying to find out what "tracks/races" are exactly.
in the meantime I have put a set of roller in my basket.
Thanks
el__burro

Offline hairygit

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Re: TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #28 on: September 16, 2016, 09:55:56 AM »
The tracks are the bits that the balls run in, a sort of half circular ring of metal, but the roller bearing set you have ordered contains everything you need to do the job.
If it's got tits or wheels, it's hassle, if it's got both, RUN!!!

Offline El__burro

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TEST RIDE #1
« Reply #29 on: September 16, 2016, 10:04:24 AM »
..so just the full set in my basket will do,
no other parts are needed to move from the 18 balls bearing to the new one?
Thanks a lot
el__burro
« Last Edit: September 16, 2016, 10:07:29 AM by El__burro »

 

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