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Messages - blackeagles
136
« on: February 15, 2019, 04:04:30 PM »
filter is new. i have one of those exotic dancer fans i got from a night out, maybe i should fan the engine and make the adjustments  ok, used the gauges and only 3 worked - one hardly moved - but when i swapped the tube over i managed to adjust it ok so now all readig same (115ish mmhg). even with the air screw out 2 3/4 turns out its still far too rich to the point that there is a smoke screen from the pipe. interesting that when i took the pipes off to swap over the gauges to get a reading the engine perked up. looks like its down to taking the carbs off yet again and changing the 'brass' - i can only guess that when i cleared the blockage from all 4 slow running jets using an ultra fine drill (23thou) i must have altered them or maybe i set the float level wrongly ( i set it to 21mm) - also the origional needle setting was 2 down and i reset it p to 3 down but the needle position should not make any real difference!!?? the kit i'm thinking of using is damineding
137
« on: February 14, 2019, 12:24:18 PM »
thanks for the info.
the gauges arrived but i'm a bit busy at the moment so will try later.
still don't understand why it running sooo rich. i know i'm only looking at it after it's ticked over for 5 or 10 mins with the screw out 2 turns turns its so black i can wipe the soot off with my finger - along with acrid fumes! it seems to prefer at least 2 3/4 turns out with little fumes and any more and i recon the needle will fall out. i did try to set the floats at 21mm and the slow running jet looked ok (but who knows) anyway lets see how it is after the sync.
138
« on: February 14, 2019, 12:13:59 PM »
Personally I would not remove the back plate and split the carbs if I didn't think there was a problem that needed attention. I would pay more attention to the bits I can get to and make sure they are as clean as possible and fit new O rings etc. If you do need to remove carbs from the back plate and spit them, it is easy enough but it doesn't sound like it's necessary in your case.
easy maybe for some of you 'old timers' (not you julie of course  ) but i was finding it difficult just getting the slides out - 'cos i'm not used to honda multis' - but i see there are complete repair kits jets and all on ebay for about £30ish or with the floats for about £45ish which, if mine is still running so very rich after syncing them i may/will have to carry out - 4th time taking them off, but without trying them first you can not tell if they will work ok or not..
139
« on: February 14, 2019, 12:04:07 PM »
I have both. Interesting that the Honda service manual doesn't mention the needle grooves...
if you have the 'shop manual - honda cb350f-400f' (hwm002) by honda then its right at the back on page 95!
140
« on: February 13, 2019, 11:31:26 AM »
finally got the carbs set up something like it says in the book - bit difficult judging 1mm for the throttle slide even if you do it with the slide down - anyway its near enought but with the air pilot screw out 2 3/4 turns it runs (a bit rough) but its very rich - when i take the plugs out they are black.
when i get the sync guages and start resetting the hight of the slides to get the 16-24 cm hg +- 3cm hg reading it is going to move the slide away from the 1mm setting which i assume is just to allow you to get the bike started...which brings me onto the question
most of the youtube carb sync videos seem to say that the cm/hg reading is not important just get them all the same so how many of you folks set them between 16/24 or do you all just 'get them the same' and forget heo reading?.
i'm asking this 'cos since i'm already running very rich then the more i raise the slide (to reach the correct reading) the richer it will become (and the more the primary chain is going to 'rattle')
141
« on: February 08, 2019, 03:45:42 PM »
Just noticed this thread and the phrase better than new kills it, if it's better than new it's over restored and certainly not worth the money, when are the restorers going to get it right. Just my own outlook on it.
over restoration is, in my view, a real problem these days. i, like many of you, have been restoring bikes (mainly old brit ones) and to me a good bike is one that runs and you can use not polish and put on a pedestal.
142
« on: February 08, 2019, 12:04:49 PM »
forgot to mention, i have run it with the air pilot at 2 turns out as a rough setup before i think about the sync and it seems to run best (without sync) at 2 3/4 turns out - which i think is a bit too far out (even with spring loading they could undo) - so may have to try 2 1/2 out and stick with it for the time being.
it ticks over at 1400 ish (at 1200 the primary rattle/lash is just too much for me to endure) but the rev counter clearly shows a very small bit of movement up and down and the bike has an annoying habbit of settling down at a lower rev level after a few moments - hopefully the sync will stop these little niggles
143
« on: February 08, 2019, 11:52:57 AM »
hmmm can't adjust the primary - then, as has been said, a real need to adjust/sync the carbs and this seems to be the noise i can hear rather then the cam chain
144
« on: February 08, 2019, 11:51:06 AM »
m5, thanks i will look out for a set of guages
145
« on: February 08, 2019, 11:50:29 AM »
there is not a lot of room but i found putting the carbs on first then the overflow pipes in place then a light oil of the air manifold rubbers and it goes on - all from the right.
if the air manifold box is a bit distorted (i.e pushed away from the arbs) then its ever harder but taking the air filter and tunnel out and pushing a small piece of wood throu. the hole into the manifold to push the rubber onto the carb works.
146
« on: February 06, 2019, 07:29:57 PM »
ok, do you guys have your own gauge sets or just find a friendly bike shop?
most of the 'kits' i see advertised seem to use m5 for the bit that screws into the carb but i'm pretty sure the gauge hole on mine is smaller.
147
« on: February 06, 2019, 04:22:51 PM »
well, finally got the carbs back on and only pipes 1 and 2 getting hot - 3 and 4 stone cold - so carbs back off and appart again!! back on and still cold so back off but i still could not find anything wrong so back on and blow me it started and ran with all pipes getting hot!! it does not like choke at all and will start with it fully off but it starts . clearly its too rich (settings on basic i.e 2 turns out of the pilot screw) so will have to adjust - (which way to weaken, in or out) can the primary chain be adjusted or is it set and the engine has to be taken appart? progress, slow but its there 
148
« on: January 28, 2019, 05:23:07 PM »
i cannot say this is a real project, not when i have seen some of the work many of you folks have been taking on, but for what it work this is mine.
this bike was (i believe) restored/part restored sometime in the early 2010's and since 2012 to when i got it it had been arround on the road and covered some 2200 miles in 6 years so not exactly a total rust bucket.
anyway, it had some bits from other bikes, loose sprockets, broken panels, various odd sized screws and the like so i have been putting 'good' second hand parts on it where possible (i'm not into concourse or even repro if i can help it) and have just finished the carbs, fitted them, twisted the grip a bit and was rewarded with the cable snapping!!
as far as i'm concerned the 'rolling chassis' is all but finished and hopefully the engine will be ok!! since its been ridden until recently - some hope i suspect.
149
« on: January 24, 2019, 02:21:48 PM »
thanks for the welcome.
i will get round to putting up some pics in the 'project' section (its too dark in the 'workshop' for anything viewable) and im' in hibernation at the mo!
150
« on: January 22, 2019, 04:44:59 PM »
hi, my name is brian and I live in farnborough, kent (between bromley and orpington for those who know the area) and I have a 1977 (registered 1978) 400f.
ive had it about 4/5 months and it was a bitsa but I have almost finished the rolling chassis with ‘used’ parts but still need the front mudguard (this one has the first 6” cut off) and the metal brake pipe along with the lower flexi pipe to replace what seems to be one off a cb400.
can’t say it wanted to run other than on full choke and one of the pipes stays cold (bit difficult to say for certain as its not cooperating but I will look at that after the carb – and when it’s a bit warmer) but to give you an idea of the condition I took the carbs apart and none of the needle slides were anywhere near the same as each other, the slow running jets were all blocked, one of the main jets was a completely different 'push fit' jet/different bore, and one of the spring clips was broken in half, the needle was set to pos.2 not 3 (not a major but changed) and the overstop and other settings were off – but hey that’s the fun!
looking at the cam adjustment I can’t say I’m looking forward to ‘messing with it’ but maybe when it is running at won’t need altering.
hope to meet anyone local at some point.
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