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Messages - Mike_Berkshire
1
« on: Today at 04:13:17 PM »
Thanks for all the input and suggestions. I will tap out the brake bit and the bearing cups and whilst Im at it will have a go at the shock bushes and see how bonded in they are. I will get a kit of the old-style ball bearings and races as if it worked for nigh on 50 years then thats going to see me out. Mike
2
« on: Today at 01:33:21 PM »
Thanks Bryan. I can see how to remove the other parts apart from the rear brake pivot arm; does the rear brake pivot arm just knock out? I cant see a circlip or anything holding it in but dont want to start bashing it unless Im sure. Also, once the old-style ball races are out of the steering tube, is it worthwhile replacing with a set of taper bearings/races in your opinion or would you stick with the ball races? Thanks again.
3
« on: Today at 01:10:14 PM »
The swinging arm bushes are removed and I have a new set of brass ones from Julie to fit after paint (ensuring no paint on outside edge of swingarm tube). Its the bushes for the lower mount of the shock absorbers that are still in place on the swingarm plus the pivot arm for the rear brake and the bearing cups for the headstock in the main frame.
4
« on: Today at 09:24:01 AM »
Hi all. I have stripped the bike and the next task is the repainting of the frame and swinging arm. I am taking it to a local stove enameller that does bikes and will do the masking. I have removed all brackets, grommets, rubbers, stands, springs and fasteners etc. Only parts still in/on the frame are the rear brake pivot linkage, head bearing cups and shock absorber bushes. Do these all need to be removed too and if so any tips for their removal? Thanks
5
« on: May 09, 2024, 09:54:42 PM »
I have this task coming up in a month or two. There I was thinking I just screw everything back together and job’s a goodun! Another learning opportunity looms. I suspect I will be re-reading this thread carefully. Thanks for starting it Ted.
6
« on: May 04, 2024, 09:19:12 PM »
No matter what set you need thicker O rings at the headgasket than those in the set
Does this apply to all gasket sets Bryan or just relating to this particular model? I will be putting the top end back together on my CB550 in the next month or 2 and it would be good know if I’m going to need to source some different O rings.
7
« on: May 03, 2024, 09:59:36 PM »
Thanks for this. It’s one of the many questions I had lined up to ask so it’s good to see somebody else asking it.
Please let me know how you get on.
8
« on: May 02, 2024, 09:39:55 PM »
Old bushes knocked out today. They were as Julie described: a sort of Bakelite material, definitely not metal. I concocted a tool to knock them out made of a length of M10 studding. Worked a treat. When it comes time to put the arm back in the frame I’m probably going to need some help. Looking at the parts diagram I don’t recall there being that many spacers and washers etc when I took it apart. Everything that came off was bagged up however,
.
9
« on: May 01, 2024, 10:47:57 AM »
The old ones you are referring to are like a bakolite. Cut a chanel in them and remove them before powder coating etc. Just cut lengthway with a hacksaw blade and prise out. Then cover the ends for powder coating. I sell the bronze bush replacements.
Thats extremely helpful and I now understand - having properly cleaned the area I can now see. So I remove the inner steel tube, cut out the old bushes, mask, paint, knock the new bushes in, put the steel tube back in, refit arm, re-fit retaining bolt, re-grease? Thanks so much! Mike
10
« on: May 01, 2024, 10:10:31 AM »
Another newbie question. I am getting close to the point where I can send the frame to the paintshop for stripping/enamelling. I have taken off the swinging arm, removed the pivot bolt & the end caps. I assume that where the manual (Im mainly using Haynes) describes 'bushes' it is referring to the inner (steel?) sleeve. Having only worked on old Brit bikes previously, to me a swinging arm bush is a short brass or phosphor bronze insert. Subject to the bush sleeve being within tolerance I am planning to leave it in the swinging arm whilst it is repainted; masking the ends and the grease nipple. Is this approach OK and is my understanding of what needs to be checked for tolerance correct? Thanks
11
« on: April 28, 2024, 08:37:40 AM »
Done.
12
« on: April 27, 2024, 10:12:22 PM »
As long as the nut screws on leave it alone as you dont need that slot
That’s good to know Bryan. How do I switch it from slack to tensioned when I rebuild the engine?
13
« on: April 27, 2024, 09:40:51 PM »
found on mine that you need a magnet to tell if washer is stuck to head on some of the less accessable ones
A top tip Martin; I'll try that, thanks!
14
« on: April 27, 2024, 09:39:43 PM »
Are we talking here about the captive type stud/bolt that is normally part of the tensioner blade - not available as a separate part? Is your tensioner blade in otherwise good condition.
The tensioner blade and mechanism assembly looks to me to be in good condition. It is just the head of the screw that goes through the 10mm nut with the little gear bit on the end. Where the outer part of the locking screw should have a slot it has had too much force applied with a screwdriver and one side of the slotted part for the screwdriver has sheared off.
15
« on: April 27, 2024, 05:28:48 PM »
The washers stick in the head recesses but if really missing are still available new.
On the adjuster is the thread stripped all the way down or just at the end? Honda should never have put that slot in there it gets abused.
New pattern ones are available but expensive and dont often come up used in good order any more.
I MAY have a used one but it wont be cheap
Thanks Bryan. The thread isnt stripped its the slot that has broken away; theres only half the slot. I have a mate who is a very ingenious fellow with a plethora of lathes, welding equipment and goodness only knows what else. I will see what he can devise but if I draw a blank I'll let you know.
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