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Messages - lordmoonpie
16
« on: April 09, 2008, 09:15:47 AM »
Yep - that's exactly what I get - blank space LOL! 
17
« on: April 08, 2008, 12:41:54 PM »
If you can find EBC HH sintered pads to fit they are superb but you'll probably just find it's the disc material itself that is causing the problem. The OEM discs are really poor and get worse in the wet...bin them for some nice cast iron ones :-)
18
« on: April 08, 2008, 12:40:26 PM »
Early K's are definitely 530 stock - I've just converted mine to 520....
19
« on: April 08, 2008, 12:39:03 PM »
Steve - yeah I checked the FAQ and tbh this forum works by and large the same as the US one where I can attach pictures no problem. When I open the additional options here though I get 1)Notify me of replies, 2) return to this topic and 3) don't use smileys checkboxes but no 4) Attachment....
Is there something wrong with my profile setup?!
20
« on: April 07, 2008, 06:54:05 PM »
Well I have a nice photo to post but for some reason I don't have the additional option to be able to load the file up?! Any ideas folks?
21
« on: April 02, 2008, 12:23:45 PM »
I've definitely got the caliper hangars and bracket K3 onwards if you need them - probably already fully polished too. Will check for a disc and caliper too - might have the lot!!
22
« on: April 02, 2008, 12:22:39 PM »
Steve - I'm up in Cheshire not that far from Sam. CAT Engineering are very big in the supply of parts for CB350 K4 and CB450 Bomber racing (twins) but have started branching out into CB750s as well. What Len Cooper doesn't know about the CB350/450 race engines isn't worth knowing. You can check it out at their site - http://www.ajhw.co.uk/cateng/racing.htmlThey're fantastic all round engineers too so any job that you need doing is OK by them and that's where they came in for me to do the 750 discs. Normally they don't go as big as 290mm but did this for me no problem. Vox - sorry I don't have a picture of the setup on my bike yet, as you'll see from sohc4.net I'm still trying to get too the bottom of the darn fork bracket for the mudguard! I could post some pics of the lovely job done by CAT on these discs though if it's of interest?
23
« on: April 01, 2008, 01:53:53 PM »
Yes - well interested in them. Are they exactly the same as the 750 then? PM me and we can do a deal! Eventually got around this buy buying random knackered old forks from DK until I got a decent set of pistons. Not very economical or time saving to do but in the end it worked....worth having some spares though 
24
« on: April 01, 2008, 01:50:45 PM »
Hi Phil - if you want to change discs, talk to Len at CAT Engineering, Crwothorne, Berkshire. He can take your stock discs (by post), take them apart, refurbish the centres and rivet on a nice new cast iron rotor, drilled as well which will put you over the bars compared to the standard steel discs. OK cast iron does rust up after getting wet but as long as you scotchbrite the discs when dry they'll last just fine. I had both of mine done by Len on the 750 and also the disc on the 450 racer. I can stop the 450 on a sixpence! They're 290mm diameter but 4mm thick and the stopping power is awesome.
For your rim sizes for the CRMC, suggest you contact their Honda expert, John Davidson and he will be able to help or Gordon Russell the eligibility officer via crmcelig@aol.com. I'm running a WM3 front, WM5 rear btw!
25
« on: January 27, 2008, 09:58:03 AM »
I'm trying to restore my forks and the fork pistons are goosed so I need new ones or good secondhand ones. Problem is the part (51442-319-000) is now obsolete so I can't order it from anywhere.
Does anyone have a pair of for pistons lying around they want to sell or some secondhand ones either alone or as complete forks?
Cheers
26
« on: July 12, 2007, 08:02:36 PM »
How close to Dick Mann's machine do you want to get? I'm still building mine after 3 years Nice Dick Mann complete graphics sets available for a plain painted fairing from....errr, me! You can see the set on www.moonpie.co.uk and reach me through that...also have classic honda tank wings and yellow flashes if you prefer the works look? Tank, seat, oil tank are best from Bartel Engineering in Donaghadee, Northern Ireland.
27
« on: June 25, 2007, 08:22:15 PM »
Yup you better use the Yoshi lash values for settnig as the longer lift and duration will mean lots of valve train stress on standard settings which could lead to failure somewhere in the system eventually. My megacycle race cam is set at 5 thou inlet and exhaust - it's fairly standard to increase the clearances for hairy cam lobes!
28
« on: June 25, 2007, 08:19:50 PM »
Shameless plugging I know but I've got a CR750 CB750R race camshaft for sale on ebay right now - it'll make a good bargain for someone!:)
29
« on: June 29, 2006, 01:23:09 PM »
I want to run a gear selector pedal straight back off the gear selector shaft on my CB750. In the UK, according to the Haynes manual, the CB750 gear pedal is attached to the shaft via a linkage bar, so if I was to use a pedal attached straight to the gear selector shaft, it would rotate the wrong way and I'd have a race shift pattern.
Haynes goes on to say that in the USA models, some of them have a reverse facing direct attached gear pedal. IF the USA bikes have the same shift pattern as the UK, i.e. one down four up, that means that the USA models must have a gear selector drum with mirror image tracks to the UK model.
So - by using a USA gear selector drum I should be able to fit a rear facing direct attached gear pedal and keep the standard road shift pattern.
That's the theory - my question is, does the USA model have a rear facing pedal, is it the same shift pattern as the UK and if so, what model do I need to get my selector drum out of?!
Oh - the reason I can't use a linkage for the gear pedal as per UK is that I want a four into four race exhaust fitting and the pedal will foul the exhaust.:S
30
« on: February 01, 2006, 08:41:09 PM »
I've just done this conversion for my CR750 project. I'm not entirely sure it'll be the same for the F1 as I'm a K series man myself but I would think it should be?! You simply use a K series hub if the F1 doesn't have bolt holes straight through and mounting shoulders for twin discs (most models do for the USA market). You'll then need a second disc, six longer bolts to hold both on the hub and a right hand fork leg off a twin disc USA model. The right hand caliper is just a standard left hand one reversed on the same caliper mount. If you use the normal K series caliper hanger of the plain hinged blade, you just re-use a right hand one. It's less pretty because the brake line then bolts into the caliper on the leading edge so isn't symmetrical. If you want to use the old K0 type caliper hangers you either need a genune CR750 parts kit or get a mirror image of the right one machined - very expensive. Other than that, there's nothing else to do - it's really straightforward!
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