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Topics - Mikep328
16
« on: August 28, 2023, 03:48:41 PM »
Is there a particular tank bag that folks here like for the CB400? I use the SW Motech types that lock onto a tank ring on several of my other bikes but that's not an option with the 400.
17
« on: August 19, 2023, 10:24:57 AM »
Anybody know anything about YSS shocks? TEC no longer seems to offer the 400 shock though they still list it. YSS shocks are available at the correct (I think) length.
Also, were the original shocks chrome with chrome springs or black with chrome springs?
18
« on: August 17, 2023, 04:09:11 PM »
This morning I rode over to JPR Motorcycles https://www.jamespackwoodracing.co.uk to have a new set of Dunlop K82s mounted. The old K82s (2018) had like-new tread depth but the sidewalls had spider-web cracks and the rubber was very hard so they definitely needed replacing. Riding back there was a noticeable improvement in how the bike felt at the same tire pressure. I was most surprised in that on the ride to the shop, the bike tramlined quite a bit on sections of road with grooving. On the way back, with the new tires, it was literally unnoticeable. Having rubber that can flex rather than rubber that feels like wood makes a big difference!! Very pleased with the tires and James, the owner of JPR, who did the work while I waited - about an hour.
19
« on: August 16, 2023, 06:47:04 AM »
Has anyone performed a test to see the difference in power consumption between running the OEM points system vs a DSS E-ignition (which is on my 400)? I'm curious about that, suspecting that points would require less power.
In the spirit of tinkering, on that subject I am looking for an OEM (points) ignition advance cam - JUST the cam that fits on the advance unit. Anybody in the UK have a spare they would sell me? DSS has the entire advance unit but I don't want to spend £58+ for that when I only need the cam. I have all the rest of the OEM system, but I guess when a previous owner installed the e-ignition, he/she tossed the cam or forgot to put it in the little bag with the breaker plate that stayed with the bike.
20
« on: August 14, 2023, 09:37:56 AM »
I have maybe 12-15mm of play in the brake lever before it contacts the master cylinder piston. As I have mentioned in my post re the brakes, they are quite good now - no issues at all with their function/performance. But that lever play does not seem correct. I have read a post where an individual filed down the brake lever where it bears against the piston so as to be able to apply more hand pressure and I'm wondering if that was done one this bike which might have some affect on play. If it was filed nicely, I'm not sure if I'll be able to tell by removing/looking at the lever.  ALSO...I see in the parts diagram for the 400, item 365 that looks like some sort of rod or tube that fits in the master cylinder lever assembly. It looks like it might bear upon the lever in some way. Is that related to any lever play?
21
« on: August 11, 2023, 07:26:25 AM »
I have an E-copy of the CB400 parts book that lists the part numbers and sizes so where should I order them? I assume they are standard items - for example, a "6x8" hex bolt in the 1977 parts book would correspond to a CURRENT 6x8 metric bolt. Is that correct? What is a good source for the various bolts/nuts?
22
« on: August 08, 2023, 04:59:50 PM »
Is there an LED headlamp bulb that works well on these bikes? Looking on various sites like Amazon and Ebay there are all sorts of allegedly 'workable' bulbs but I'd rather hear from folks who have found, or not found, anything suitable. I don't intentionally ride at night...As Joseph Lucas commented, "Gentleman don't motor about after dark," I'm interested primarily in it as a daytime running light that is a bit easier on the charging system..
23
« on: August 06, 2023, 05:28:33 PM »
What is the general feeling about the level of disassembly that is typically needed for one of these carb sets? Should they be separated for cleaning? TBH, I'm not really seeing a need to do so since most parts are accessible for removal/cleaning/adjusting but I have no experience with working on these 4-carb sets. All four function properly - all airscrews affect the idle as they should and there are no leaks or any issues though I can already see that they need synchronization and the choke butterflies need to be better aligned.
Of course it is easier not to separate the carbs but I don't want to miss some obvious/well-known issue that separating the carbs takes care of.
24
« on: August 05, 2023, 12:08:04 PM »
This morning, when doing the brake work I noticed that the front wheel can move side to side slightly on the axle. In looking at the diagram in the shop manual there is a spacer (#21 "wheel side collar" and #22, the front axle nut. If the wheel is pushed to the non disc side of the axle, #21 has free play. It APPEARS to me that the #22, the axle nut, can be adjusted so that there is no play for that spacer/the wheel.
Is that correct? I can't find a specific reference re tightening/adjusting the axle nut in the shop manual.
25
« on: August 01, 2023, 03:29:00 PM »
I see a variety of venders with the "same item" - anything from carb screws to brake calipers at dramatically different prices. One example is a carb gasket set that is around £16 per carb from DSS (£66 for four) vs around £41 for a set of four carbs from 4 into 1.
I see the same sort of variation with other items/vendors, including ebay vendors.
Using the carb gasket set as an example, I'm fine paying £66 rather than £41 if the parts are better quality/fit correctly, etc. OTOH, I don't see any reason to pay £20 more if there is no difference.
Are there actually different manufacturers for these pattern parts - say carb gaskets - or is there only one that all the resellers purchase from and then re-package/price? Are there venders that are known to be great and some to stay away from?
26
« on: July 24, 2023, 01:57:59 PM »
I apologize for being new here, asking a bunch of questions but I DO try to search first and didn't find anything specific re this...
My 1973 Norton Commando is more energetic on 10% ethanol with a few degrees of advance beyond the OEM setting. To be specific, the Commando spec is 28 degrees of total advance but it clearly runs better with no pinking/knocking under load with 32 degrees total advance.
Has anyone done any fooling around with timing changes on the 400/E10 vs the OEM setting based on "old" style petrol?
27
« on: July 22, 2023, 09:55:34 AM »
My new to me CB400 does the "won't return to idle" thing. I noticed this the first time I rode it. It will idle OK after starting/warmed up but when out riding, it will hang at 2500+ RPM. Blipping the throttle doesn't help. I have found extensive posts here re that issue so I'm going work my way through the suggestions/opinions. I had a Norton Commando that did the same thing and it turned out the mechanical advance weights were sticking in the advanced position when the throttle was reduced to the idle position. So I'll check it with a strobe light and verify that the weights are functioning properly. I don't know if the carbs were worked on previously. There are receipts and mechanic's notes for an engine rebuild but no mention of carbs and no parts receipts for carb parts. So I need to at least check them for proper linkage adjustment, etc. Also will check sync though when it is idling at 1200 RPM after start up, it runs smoothly so I'm thinking the sync is reasonably close. Popping the throttle open when running down the road at say, 3000 RPM will result in a major bog; opening the throttle less aggressively it pulls well. I should go through the carbs I guess but if I can sort out the not-returning-to idle with external adjustments, I'll delay that.. Also noted a seep from the oil pan gasket. I checked and all bolts were all adequately/evenly tight so seems like a new gasket is in order. A problem I have for mechanic work is that our bikes and car are in an apartment building multi-car garage. So there is no workbench or electricity and everything I do has to be contained within the parking slot which also contains our MiniCooper and two other motorcycles. Obviously, things like the carbs can be removed and worked on indoors but much care has to be taken with any operation that might end up with oil or fuel being spilled on the community garage floor. Replacing that oil pan gasket might be tricky under the circumstances... 
28
« on: July 21, 2023, 06:46:08 AM »
Hi all! A few days ago I acquired a '76 CB400 four, took it out for my first ride. Fun little bike...except for the front brake which I found totally inadequate. Subsequently I found this site and read all the posts I could find, seeing much re the "wooden" feel and generally mediocre stopping power. On my bike the lever is firm, no sponginess. It just doesn't apply any real stopping power, regardless of how much pressure I apply on the lever. The bike has 13,276 miles and is in excellent, well serviced condition with a lot of receipts for work done, to include replacing the cam chain tensioner as well as other engine "freshening." The only modification to the bike from stock is an electronic ignition. I contacted a well-known vintage Honda spares supplier, asking them for recommendations to improve the brake. I was surprised that rather than trying to sell me a new rotor, new lines, new master cylinder, etc), the response was, "New pads may help but the brakes on a CB400F were never great." The front brake feels pretty much the same as the stock front brake did on my '73 Norton Commando - maybe even a bit worse - before I replaced the OEM master cylinder with a Brembo from Colorado Norton Works. That, a set of braided SS lines, and some more aggressive pads in the OEM caliper transformed that brake. It is now acts and feels like modern brakes. Of course the down side is that the master cylinder does not look anything like the OEM version. My general thought is to go down a similar path though from searching and the suppliers response, it doesn't sound like anything is going to make the sort of transformation I am looking for. So...I'm wondering if anyone has done something similar (different master cylinder) or found some tricks/tweaks/mods to the OEM front brake that I have not managed to find via the search function. Also, what are the most aggressive brake pads for street riding, including aggressive riding on narrow, twisty roads? I don't care about rotor wear. If I had to replace a rotor every 10,000 miles to get good brakes, that's fine. Thanks!
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