This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - born to be mild
1
« on: May 22, 2020, 09:22:53 PM »
That's really generous of you Bryan and thanks very much, unfortunately I ordered a pair online just after leaving my last posting here and just before you posted. Sods law at work again ! it was a kind offer though, thank you. I'm sure some other needy soul lacking sparks will benefit instead at some point.
2
« on: May 22, 2020, 05:19:39 PM »
Ok Gents, thanks, I think I know where I'm going now;
Coil for 1&4 reads Primary 4.8 ohm
Secondary Nil [ I've taken plug caps off to double check that they weren't the problem ]
Coil for 2&3 [ CDI type replacement coil ] reads Primary 2.5 ohm [ which looking at the responses is at least 1.5 ohms too low]
Secondary 27.9K ohms .
So it looks as though the coil for 1&4 has given its all after maybe a mere 43 years [ its a TEC one so I'm assuming it's original] and coil 2&3 has been replaced at some point with the wrong [CDI type] of unit and also needs replacing because it's only reading 2.5 ohms. The 102mm versus 90mm debate is now thankfully a moot point as I've discovered that the mounting bracket is moveable at the rear so I could go for either mounting option.
Thank you both for your advice, much appreciated. Ash, I found your download for coil repair too which if I was keeping the bike I'd definately have a go at on the non cdi type but as I'm selling the bike at some point this year I think I'd best buy new.
3
« on: May 22, 2020, 10:17:50 AM »
Does anyone know if coils specified for CDI units can be used on existing points ? I appear to have one of each type on my '77 F2 , looking at the previous owners invoices he has fitted a CDI type coil and now some years later the other [ original ? ] coil has failed , the bike wont tick over when hot and i cant get continuity through the plug leads. The reason why I want to fit the cdi type coils is that it has 100mm hole centres, the 90mm version wouldn't fit my bike. The SKU number of the newer ,working coil is 713712 looking at the paperwork. I understand that it's worked thus far but I wondered if adding another 'incorrect ' coil would cause problems.
4
« on: February 15, 2017, 10:27:16 PM »
Update, taking the cover off that the gear lever shaft runs through and then the sprocket cover let me get to the connectors for the field coil, thankfully there was no problem there, I got good continuity between the two leads, not sure why I wasn't getting that before at the plug where these and the stator leads join the wiring harness because the plug terminals read ok too although, maybe I was doing something wrong. While I was in there I spotted a bare section on the oil pressure switch wire which I've now insulated with heat shrink, so that's pretty much all the charging electrics checked with good earths at all green wires.
I've made a couple of paper gaskets for the covers and so now its a matter of slapping it all back together again and topping the oil up, [ about half a pint came out when I took the gearbox cover off ] re-routing the various bits of the harness to make it look tidier under the sidepanel and see if I've now got a charging battery.
Thanks very much to all who helped out with advice which was very much appreciated, I was thinking of selling the Honda this year once I had fettled the charging but I'm having second thoughts now and might sell the Triumph instead.
5
« on: February 10, 2017, 06:42:12 PM »
Brilliant, thanks K2-K6, that's the information that I was trying to get to but I don't think that I articulated my question very well.
I'm hoping theres a duff connection or a broken wire as the field coils are 320 euros on CMSL.
6
« on: February 09, 2017, 09:24:24 PM »
Thanks guys, Ive got the alternator cover off already, not a lot in there at all which is probably how it should be, its the cover to the right of it ie, towards the back wheel,that I'm thinking the cables run through but point taken about the dry sump and the roasting tin . The cables run out of the alt cover then disappear back and inboard to reappear near the under the oil tank area. Point taken also about the workshop manual Chris, my Haynes is pretty poor, thanks. Your advice much appreciated all round especially since I only posted it a couple of hours ago, so thanks all.
7
« on: February 09, 2017, 06:39:39 PM »
Hi All, My F2 wasn't charging properly so maybe a bit hastily I bought a new solid state reg/rec unit for it and while I was wiring it all up again I decided to do a proper job and test the continuity on the new spade connections that I had made [ some of the old wiring had tiny cuts and splits in it so I cut them out and bought a new 6way plug to fit to the new reg rec plug] . I've taken the alternator cover off and tested the three yellow wires from the stator for continuity, all good but I cant get a bleep between the green & red wires from the field coil suggesting that there's a loose connection or the windings are shot. The field coil looks pretty good so I suspect that there's a connection in the crankcase/ drive cover that I cant see between the alt housing and where the cable emerges at the back of the crankcase prior to the 6 pin plug which goes onto the new reg/rec. My question, does this connection exist apart from in my imagination that is and how do I get to it ? do I have to drain the engine oil to get to the thing? I did loosen the drive cover screws and it started to drip which didn't make any sense to me. any help gratefully received. I've tried to show the test that I was copying off youtube but I don't think that it'll post as a hyperlink. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4q7sV0LpLsPS; Am a bit loathe to drain the sump as the bike is presently adorning my dining room,,,,and yes, you're quite right, I am in fact single.
8
« on: April 09, 2016, 08:45:31 AM »
Thanks Totty, very helpful , that gives me the confidence to take a deep breath and dive in because at least now I know what I'm looking for or what it should look like so I appreciate you taking the time to help out.
9
« on: April 06, 2016, 09:08:44 PM »
Hi All,
The battery on my '77 F2 isn't charging , at MOT time the mechanic said it was the regulator/ rectifier , Ive bought a solid state one from M & P accessories which has a block of three yellow wires plus one red and one green wire going into it connector, so the block has five male spade connectors , additionally there is also one white wire and one black wire, can anyone confirm where all of these go? Ive just taken a peek under the side panel and there are scotchlock connectors in there and modern spade type fuses spliced inline with wires so in short a mess so I'm thinking that over the years the wiring has been buggered about with and I cant be sure whats what .
10
« on: April 26, 2015, 02:15:33 PM »
Is leather braces and a very butch 'tache so very wrong when it feels so right ?? and anyway consider the Suzuki Blandit, any model, who's laughing now?
11
« on: April 06, 2015, 09:19:53 AM »
Thanks guys, tested the bike against your figures Simon, and got 12.4 volts at 1250 ish rpm and 12.8 volts at 5000, so I definitely have a problem. Looking at Bryans statistics I will start with the wiring loom and earths as the previous owner had the frame powder coated and also there are some of the scotchlok connectors in the wiring. I'll take your advice Martin and not dicker about with the regulator til I've tried everything else. Thanks everyone for responses so far I will keep you posted in case what I find is useful to anyone else. Thanks especially Simon for going to the trouble with the table and for trying to get photos.
Happy easter
Andy
12
« on: April 05, 2015, 03:06:24 PM »
Hi All,
My new to me 750 F2 is charging at 12.9v lights off and 12.6v lights on, I took it for a spin today and checked the battery voltage before I left , which was 12.9v, when I got back after about 6 miles of mixed traffic and country lane riding it was 12.6 volts. The last time that I took the bike out was a 40 ish mile run where I ran out of fuel, once Id sorted where reserve was the battery wouldn't turn the bike over, but I got it to fire up on the kickstart. The only other time that I've ridden it is the approx. 100 trip home from the previous owner where it started running rough then seemed to clear which I had thought was carb related, not so sure now.
Before I took the bike out today I swapped its fairly new looking battery for the Motobatt out of my Triumph, so I'm certain that its a charging issue. Do I need to adjust the regulator?, I thought that Id ask wiser heads then mine before I start fannying about with electrics that I barely understand.
Cheers.
Andy.
13
« on: February 14, 2015, 01:51:07 PM »
Brilliant photos, thanks Mike, I hadn't seen that done before, fascinating and I showed my 20 year old son the shots as well to make what his grandparents generation had to live through a little more real. Great post.
14
« on: January 09, 2015, 01:49:57 PM »
Can you get a hub puller around whats left of the sprocket ?
15
« on: January 03, 2015, 11:21:42 PM »
I was at Newark today as well and asked at the 'On All Fours' stand for some bits, I thought that I had somehow offended the mardy sod, wont bother him again the funny thing was the show had only been open for an hour so God knows what he would have been like by closing time.
|
Show Posts