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Topics - Lobo
31
« on: November 13, 2021, 12:33:24 PM »
I genuinely reckon (acceptably safe) fully automated cars will be with us within a decade, and shortly after that manually operated cars withdrawn due highway incompatibility. And, in my case, I don’t think I’m bothered as frankly getting from A-B these days, in a car & at certain times, can be anything but enjoyable - I’d rather be feet up with a magazine & a beer.
But then there’s those off-peak times + sunshine + a nice bike which makes everything right with the world….. gawd I’m loving’ this retirement malarkey..
The question is, if / when the highways do become 100% automated, is there a future for motorbikes or any vehicular everyday pleasure?
Personally I can’t see one - thoughts folks?
32
« on: May 27, 2021, 11:34:22 PM »
Apologies if this has been covered before, but asking if there’s any mileage (!) in adding a drop of 2T into the tank of a rarely used 4 Stroke? (I don’t mean for storage purposes only, but actual running)
If it is deemed that such a practice would aid long periods of disuse - what mix ratio would be suggested?
If a no-no.... why?
Intrigued; I’m rarely riding my SS50; and to boot have a 4 Stroke outboard which suffers a sticky valve / isn’t getting the action it needs.
(I’m obviously avoiding ethanol additive fuels btw)
Ta...
33
« on: May 25, 2021, 12:13:44 PM »
Given the (assumed) average age of this forum this clip is entertaining. Don’t see Julie in it, but perhaps names can be put to the faces? 😂 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XXPGE0klmc
34
« on: May 08, 2021, 12:10:43 PM »
This made me laugh, an understatement of ‘rough shape’ if ever there was 😂. A bargain at £40. Hmm
Ebay...
81 Honda CB750 CB 750 F Super Sport petrol gas fuel tank
35
« on: April 30, 2021, 10:01:08 AM »
Been deep cleaning the ‘fleet’ this week, and as always the odd issue gets noticed...
On the K2 an outer (SS) spoke is broken (Rear wheel) - which is now removed.
Q1. Whilst I find / order a replacement, comments on riding the bike (sensibly) in this state? (Fact - I may have been riding like this for weeks 😂)
Q2. The original supplier was Centralwheels; their stock shows NIL, but worse, they only quote a full set @ £85 + postage. Any ideas where I might find (eg 4) of these outer SS spokes, the length is abouts 145mm, with the >90 deg end, and 3.6mm dia / single butted at 4mm.
Q3. Is is possible to get the CB750 rear wheel back on without removing the (metal) chain guard! Tips here?
Q4. One for the chemists... stupid details aside I’ve inadvertently mixed a bottle of Isopropyl & a bottle of (clear) methylated spirits 50/50. Doh. Is there any use for it... cleaning etc... or best disposed of.
Thanks all.
36
« on: February 25, 2021, 08:29:18 AM »
1/2 pistons scored down one side of a 250cc 2-stroke, which runs on 100:1 premix. The rings are seized into the grooves at this point.
Salvageable? (not too fussed about performance, but need reliability (outboard motor).
Why the damage so localised?
Little / big ends all seem good, as are crankshaft bearings...
Ta,
Simon
37
« on: February 03, 2021, 08:08:56 AM »
Hope ya don’t mind Steve.....!
Not esp familiar with 2 strokes - any help much appreciated. Small twin Yam 9.9HP outboard. Carb thoroughly cleaned; no rubber intake manifold... seals directly to the Reed Valves / head. Fresh fuel. New plugs & correctly gapped.
The thing starts on full choke, and idles there - at a high speed. When you start to back the choke off it pops; looses momentum / rpm and dies, during which there’ll be the odd backfire. I’ve not had it in the water / under load, but all indications are it accelerates / revs freely on the throttle. Bottom line, it won’t idle off choke at a nice rpm.
Engine look good / unmolested / never opened up. Nonetheless it’s prob 20 yrs old, and possibly worn. All thoughts appreciated - You Tube not been enlightening so far ...
What to do lah?
Ta, Simon
38
« on: January 22, 2021, 11:17:25 AM »
Just an honest question here regarding my 750K2 vs a friend’s K1. Mine, whilst not quite concours, is good as new... erm, because it almost is. (as David Silver & eBay could verify 😂). Every moving thing is regularly greased, oiled etc, the ride is quiet & smooth.
My mate’s K1 is a bit tired. It needs love, and is awaiting a resto. It’s not particularly ‘joyful’ to ride, and the motor feels that it’s not quite breathing right. The plugs btw a nice light brown; the engine doesn’t burn oil.
Today we serviced it iaw Honda specs. New air filter / plugs / carb rubbers. Tappets set @ 0.05/0.08mm, (electronic) timing(s) verified correct at full advance RPMs, and the carbs balanced (at 2000RPM) via quality vacuum gauges. All easily achieved, and in truth little adjustment needed: the engine seems ok. It continues to start on the button & idles cleanly.
Despite the above his bike (still) just doesn’t pull as strongly as mine. Any suggestions to what we might have missed.... is it simply that it generally feels rough and it’s all in the head???
(he’s running K2 pipes on it, but with K1 baffles as I recall)
Ta.
39
« on: January 19, 2021, 12:34:31 PM »
Last week bought an elderly 10HP Yam outboard off a teenager.... which was a mistake as grease is apparently outrageously expensive 😂.
Anyways, it’s now undergoing a major tear down... not come across this before but how really obvious and bloody helpful. Full marks to Yamaha.
40
« on: December 16, 2020, 11:13:26 AM »
This is really odd. My darned nose itches like buggery once under way. It drives me nuts, and at the lower speeds I’m constantly flipping up both visors and having a good old scratch. On the motorway I resort to massive face contortions and look like bloody Cosmo Smallpiece - the upside however is that other road users give me a wide berth....
And it gets a bit more wierd; the problem lessens if I flip the inner sun visor up!.
I’m using a Schuberth C4 Pro, any others with a similar affliction?
😂😂😂
41
« on: December 06, 2020, 11:28:16 PM »
Over on ‘my’ Griso forum this topic is in swing; predominantly the poster was looking for space to mount the main electronics unit.
...which was news to me as I assumed they were always self contained helmet mounted jobbies.
So, I see that they are now fairly high tech, and typically with both forward and aft looking cameras. Questions:
1: do such systems typically record both fwd & aft channels at the same time? And if not do you then have some ‘bars mounted switch?
2: is the repeater unit (typically a 3” display) necessary to the system? (don’t reckon I’d want it)
All thoughts / recommendations welcome; I’ve never considered one before; but on Fri some idiot swapped lanes too closely on the m’way and whilst it won’t save my life it could be useful in ‘scrapes’.
Ta.
42
« on: October 13, 2020, 12:05:01 PM »
A nerdy thread -
1st up a big thanks to Peter / Kent400 for his tips on damping my ‘750 K2 instruments - oh joy, for the first time in ownership my gauges read something versus everything.
It’s fair job dismantling the instruments, and for the sake of a few minutes I recalibrated both - very accurately.
I used a battery drill to spin the instruments via their own cables, and an iPhone APP to sense the chuck rpm. (taped a magnet to the chuck - iPhone uses internal sensor to give rpm readout.)
Via a little spread sheet with constants (1) front wheel radius and (2) gearing ratios of wheel rpm to speedo drive input rpm ... and (3) crank rpm to rev counter input rpm it converts the drill chuck rpm to both KPH & engine RPM values.
I had to keep the drill spinning at a constant speed whilst I entered that into the spreadsheet. The KPH & RPM values then dictate where you then drop the instrument needle onto its spindle (drill still spinning). A couple of more random drill speeds to double check readings... and the needle(s) can be pushed fully home.
Finally, the speedo needle didn't return to 0 (ie it read 10 KPH at rest) so I then had to gently bend the zero-stop tab down by the speed cap to re-datum 0 KPH.
All now road tested and confirmed accurate via a Radar speed readout board as you enter our village - perfect.
And better still the bike now idles nicely at 1000RPM.... versus the ‘1200’ of past few years.
It all sounds more complicated that it was... Mrs Lobo & I did the 2 instruments in abouts 1/2 an hour....
43
« on: October 12, 2020, 12:46:07 PM »
.... taken me TOO long to work this one out, but on rebuilding the headstock of the K2 this week simply made all the loom connections first, and only then fed the bundles into the headlamp shell, followed by mounting it.
This just left the L.Blue and Orange indicator wires + headlamp connections to finish up.
So much bloody easier ....
44
« on: October 11, 2020, 09:14:37 AM »
Hi all,
Having to top up folk oils (K2) as a leak on one side through the cherry treated copper washer 🙁...
Rather than drain / refill, can anyone advise me the distance of oil to top of Stanchion, and whether springs in/out, fork collapsed or extended.
(SeanSD recently advised 140mm... but went on to add the below, which has kinda put me off (sorry Sean!)
Cheers,
Simon
“I’d be interested to hear what others think of this, because after replacing the springs and shocks (IKON also) the bike developed a severe head-shake at about 35-35kph if I took one hand off the bars. This quickly settled and at higher speeds it was fine. I have yet, 20,000km later, to solve this problem, so any ideas welcome. I have just rebuilt the forks completely while replacing the seals, so here’s hoping 🤞”
45
« on: October 08, 2020, 09:33:08 AM »
Hi,
To save me manually turning the crank 10 times and counting....has anyone got the definitive answer to the ratio of crank turns versus tacho gear turns?
(got the tacho apart, and figured I may as well spin it up (with a drill and an iPhone strobe) to set the needle back correctly. 😂. And yep, overly complicated but the bodies are drying and I love a good fiddle....)
Ta.
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