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Messages - AshimotoK0
16
« on: April 05, 2024, 09:39:05 PM »
Is that one from the link I sent to eBay guy in Hull ?.. Stevesvintagespares? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255988586298....If so it's supposed to a C100 one... which should deffo fit. If you are desperate I can send you one of my NOS spares and just look around for a replacement sometime for me.
17
« on: April 05, 2024, 01:27:22 AM »
If so welcome back! 
(Attachment Link)
I have already answered this question you asked me via WhatApp a couple of weeks ago or have you forgot already Ash 
No .. you didn't answer that question. I said he was shown as being logged in on the stats page and that was what your reply was about. This was on the 'Who's on Line' section on the main page. So it was reasonable to assume that perhaps he was allowed back on again, seeing he was shown online on the main page. How can a banned member be online? It never happened with 'Bikepusher' .. as soon as he was off the forum (I assume kicked off ) he came up as 'no longer a member'.
18
« on: April 04, 2024, 07:48:38 PM »
uuummmm....I can't say I understand the post Ash! 
Does this make it any clearer. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
19
« on: April 04, 2024, 07:20:13 PM »
If so welcome back! [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
20
« on: April 04, 2024, 03:34:41 PM »
Here it is after bonding with the 2-part Polyurethane
Had difficulty fitting the two centre rubbers to the carb intakes, despite warming up the still fairly pliable rubbers. This is because the plastic collector box housing flexes ...... so came up with this 'tool' to push from the inside of the air filter frame. Will see how it goes 
How did you get on with the tool you made? Would it make much difference if I invested in a new airbox manifold to replace my 46 year old one? I truly dread doing this job. 
In the end i used a couple of pieces of wood ... plus the main thing is to heat up the rubbers as much as you can off the bike and before fitting ... I used an infra red heater.
21
« on: April 04, 2024, 01:20:35 PM »
Sounds like the battery to me Phil. But as Ted says , substitution with another battery will confirm.
Good to hear from you ...hope you are doing OK.
22
« on: April 04, 2024, 01:16:47 PM »
Updated my earlier post Mo .. check arm #11 moves freely and has decent spring pressure from spring #12. Also that the screw #19 which holds the guide plate to the shift drum isn't loose. But of course the shift shaft arrangement and it's spring needs to be looked at too.
I am also hoping that the little pins #4 which run in the channels of the shift drum and retained by 'R' clips #5 are OK too but 1st you need to check the stuff outside the crankcases and hope that's the cause.
23
« on: April 04, 2024, 12:06:10 PM »
Yes as far as Yamiya but I get my friend in Japan to buy them and ship them, as well as other parts from Yahoo auctions in Japan, as they don't have eBay there. Not sure how it pan's out if you go the 'standard' route as I think they hammer you a bit on the estimated weights and postage. Probably a bit cheaper in the long run though.
24
« on: April 04, 2024, 11:42:31 AM »
Here goes Mo. The hex head on the bit in the top crankcase was pretty tight but removed it and pictured parts in the images below. Also tried to photo inside the hole and you can see the channel groove in the shift drum directly below so pretty sure nothing can drop inside when you remove the 'bolt' thingy. Cursing as the case wasn't on the shelf where I thought it was ... I had stored it away in the bowels of my shed. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
25
« on: April 03, 2024, 09:32:57 PM »
Are thanks everyone That's a bit to take in after all that I have done Thought I could just go out and ride Now Ha..... lol
I have looked on the D/S site ....... and they do have most like the Coller drum 24446-200-000 and the No 2 spring 24641-216-000 that they will have to order in....they have got No 12 spring No 24435-283-010 I have the No 3 spring already as that 24651-283-000.
If I unscrew that Detent 8-9 it wont drop anything inside will it Ash ? but I will take that out first to see if that is Ok and go from there.
Pretty sure you can take 8-9 out Mo without it going inside but you may need a small magnet on the end of a rod to coax it out. Don't attempt to move the shift drum though with the gear lever. Before you do it I have some spare crankcases in my shed so I will look more closely at it. You may have to rock the drum a very small fraction either way to get the the 'collar shift drum guide' Item#9 to release. Also check arm #11 moves freely and has decent spring pressure from spring #12. Also that the screw #19 which holds the guide plate to the shift drum isn't loose. I am pretty sure a 5-speed arrangement will not fit the Bomber K0 ... the bottom end of the 4-speed is totally different to the 5 speed .. the crank for instance bears no real resemblance to the 5-speed. I am told the 4-sp is more like a Honda race crank arrangement.
26
« on: April 03, 2024, 08:19:07 AM »
That's a bummer 'Mo. Always crap when a seller doesn't tell you the full story.
Worth somebody else chipping in here but you can check the shifter mechanism without separating the crank-cases (you just have to take off clutch cover) See diagrams for things to check like the shifter shaft mechanism 1 and springs 2 &3 in top diagram attached. ( and profiled shift plate and pins on the end of the shift drum plus the two spings 3 & 12 and associated roller mech 11. Also the spring loaded pin 9 that is mounted in the top crankcase and runs in the guides of the shifter drum. (possibly the 1st thing to check I guess before removing clutch cover etc) . Other than that you would have to check the shift forks and drum, which means removing the bottom crankcase. On the bomber the crank is totally different to most other Hondas of the period and later, in that the crank has pillar blocks mounted in the top case .... so splitting the cases (with top end undisturbed) is not too daunting ... albeit a pain in the ar*e seeing as you bought a supposedly restored bike. I feel you pain.
Perhaps someone else can chip in and confirm what I am saying ... Bryan/RoyHalliwell etc.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
27
« on: March 31, 2024, 02:51:01 PM »
Different regions have different arrangements. e.g the UK model SS125A had non-removable baffles but the JDM one had a removable one.
I have to say though that I much prefer the removable ones because when it comes to re-chroming a lot of places do a flow test with water ...i.e fill the exhaust with water and measure the time to drain. If it takes any more than a couple of seconds they refuse to take the job on. Obviously, taking the baffle out vastly increases the flow-rate in most cases.
28
« on: March 30, 2024, 08:12:29 PM »
It's not listed as a separate item in any of my sloper parts books but the silencer is the same as the CD125A sloper, which lists it as a C100 etc -001- part. 18311-001-030 Hate having to recommend this thieving b*sta*rd near me for one but he has them and, for once in his life not too bad a price. Can't guarantee they will fit but nearly sure. I can measure or sketch a NOS sloper one I have if you like to ask him to compare (not for sale though as off my NOS sloper silencer). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255988586298Here is a pic of mine:- [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
29
« on: March 29, 2024, 10:05:22 AM »
I agree with Ash,
The ProXL clear is excellent stuff.
I've done a small tank and also prepared other stuff for it, because once it's activated it won't keep long.
Do wear a proper mask tho.
I actually used the SprayMax clear it was the ProXL primer I used but nice to know that the ProXL clear is good too.
30
« on: March 29, 2024, 10:02:57 AM »
I often just do a screenshot using Snipping Tool in Windows. Resolute enough and not s massive file ... so posts easily.
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