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Messages - AshimotoK0
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4981
« on: July 22, 2015, 09:33:20 PM »
Well You do get em... .. from the Land of the Rising Yen ... pricey though! http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d169245737You just need a nice 75 year old lady to bring em back in her luggage .. like a certain member on here did with a tank, front & Rear mudguards, clocks,tail-lamp and seat etc. !!  With a little note in her handbag saying 'the parts in the suitcase are scrap parts for a motorcycle I am restoring in the UK'. you even get passenger assistance and all that, to carry em out of the airport if you are canny! Ash [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
4982
« on: July 21, 2015, 07:13:04 PM »
Wow what a shock . Lost for words really. Never knew he was seriously ill
RIP mate.
Ash
4983
« on: July 17, 2015, 12:32:49 PM »
Sold for £4201. And there's another one on eBay for £9250; a fully restored low mileage very early UK model.
The restored one looks like it is from CB Classic Motorcycles 
Looks like our own lovely nurse is selling it to me ....
4984
« on: July 17, 2015, 08:17:25 AM »
4985
« on: July 14, 2015, 08:00:25 AM »
Re: 'bikepusher' ..... Well me included peed him off a bit and TBH it was because I can't bear to see really nice bikes broken for parts, which is a bit hypocritical of me really because deep down I know I have bought really nice parts off nice bikes which should never have been broken up.
He starts stuff pretty low and daft bu**ers pay silly money for tiny bits and he rubs his hands together with glee but some stuff looks OK and goes for a reasonable price sometimes, like engines and wheels etc that he sells and the description is pretty honest.
I too need to track down Cruzinimage, as I want to buy from them directly and have them shipped within Japan.
Ash
4986
« on: July 13, 2015, 07:24:33 AM »
I just measured one that's been stripped of its original coating and it measures 2.3 mm thick
4987
« on: July 13, 2015, 06:06:07 AM »
Hi del,
I'm out of my comfort zone here; but as a confirmed tinkerer would be up for the below.... think if you grab a beer & go through it slowly it may turn up what you're after.
Until, of course, Ash simply tells you the 'number'...
Sorry can't be of more help,
Simon
http://www.ngineering.com/led_calculators.htm
The load resistor for a LED is influenced by the forward volt drop (FVD)of the LED and this varies for the different colours.For the first RED LEDs this was 1.8 volts but its about 3.5 volts for a WHITE one. So what you do is subtract the FVD from the supply voltage and then use that voltage figure in OHMS Law to calculate the required series resistance. So for a WHITE LED and 12 v supply and say a 50 milliamp desired current (0.050 A) you get 12 - 3.5 v = 8.5v So, applying Ohms law R=V/I ... the resistor value comes out as 8.5/0.05 =170 Ohms. However,it's not as simple as this,because with with modern LED 'arrays' they have multiple LED's embedded into the same device and connected in a series and parallel arrangement to optimize minimum power drop in the series resistor and also some even have integrated 'constant current' circuitry in addition to the LEDs to give a constant brightness irrespective of any supply voltage fluctuations (if you think about it a 12 volt bike battery can reach 14v) Best thing may be to just get an wirewound 'pot' (variable resistor) of say 100 Ohms and connect this in series with the LED and adjust it until you get the desired brightness then measure its value with a DVM and replace it with a fixed resistor. If you sent me a LED bulb I could easily do this for you as I have all of the gear to do it quickly. Sorry about the long winded answer .. my kids/family have no interest whatsoever in anything like this so I have to pass the knowledge onto someone 
4988
« on: July 11, 2015, 11:55:33 PM »
Here Ya Go.. Six quid each almost from Silvers ... what a rip off as they look like stamped out 'D' shaped washers on my bike, not a machined component or are mine a bodged attempt by a PO?
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4990
« on: July 11, 2015, 11:57:36 AM »
Fault finding always difficult at a distance. I have a main customer in Lithuania who uses my PC controlled test rigs and it's a nightmare fault finding. What you could probably sort out in 5 minutes if you were on site can sometimes take a week to get to the bottom of.
Ash
4991
« on: July 11, 2015, 09:53:29 AM »
You may have masked the underlying problem but if it works for you then that's great. An electronic unit will probably have its own voltage regulator inside, which will be insensitive to any battery voltage/charging excessive fluctuations and the flash 'timing' will be governed by electronics rather than the standard electromechanical style flasher, which uses a capacitor discharge circuit into a relay.There is also the 'Signal-stat' version mainly fitted to USA bikes that uses a bi-metallic strip like the old Lucas car ones,which my have been less sensitive.
Ash
4993
« on: July 10, 2015, 08:25:56 AM »
Thanks for that Roy. Prices sound good and I don't mind cash payment. Usually it's only my wife who refers to me as Ashley...usually when I've done something wrong  Cheers ... Ash
4994
« on: July 08, 2015, 09:30:56 PM »
It doesn't use a zener diode it uses a solid state voltage regulator but yes you can use one. This regulator adjusts the current in the field coil and therefore regulates the output of the three phase stator to match the battery charge condition. The later Honda bikes use an integrated rectifier and regulator, the regulator parts being a solid-state equivalent of the electromechanical separate OEM item. Regulator-rectifiers are cheap on eBay, just check its been tested if its a used one.
Ash
4995
« on: July 08, 2015, 08:06:03 AM »
Yeah mine looked like that Al and they were also done by RS but in the early 80s when chroming was so much better than it is today.
However due to the rough casting it leaves small holes in the chrome and that's where the water etc gets in, pretty soon it's not looking quite as pretty.
Agree .. I got a NOS pair for one of my 250's and you can see, after shelf-only storage for 30 odd years, that there's slight rust build up in the 'valleys' where the throwing power of the plating process is poorer and also where it's hard to reach with a polisher/abrader. I think we have to be fair to Mark at RS here, that this is a very difficult item to plate and most (if not all ) chromers will struggle with this one, as no doubt Honda did back in the day, and they were starting with a freshly prepared casting. BTW someone I work with says his dad is a chromer in Hull and that new EU regulation is coming in, which almost outlaws even the 'safer' conventional tri-valent chrome plating (unless you spend oodles on new fancy plant). David Silver also told us that about 18 months ago. Perhaps, the only way round it is to stockpile the chemicals before the laws come in. Ash
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