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Messages - Gixxer-18
1
« on: March 13, 2019, 09:04:40 AM »
Having just done this to my 400/4, I can agree it does make the engine run smoother and with much less noise. #3 cylinder main jet was blocked, and ultrasonically cleaning all the jets and carb passages, then blowing through with compressed air removed a surprising amount of gunge!
You might well consider new inlet rubbers, I had to use a ratchet strap round the cylinder head to get the carb bank on, it was a tough job.
I had also bench synched the carb choke and throttle opening with a length of piano wire under each slide so that they all started to open at the same time, and the air screws turned out the same number of turns. That allowed me to start the engine enough to warm it up before adjusting it with vacuum gauges, although it ran quite smoothly compared to before even on these basic settings!
2
« on: February 21, 2019, 06:46:41 PM »
I had a 1972 Suzuki A100 I found in a skip, with no papers, so I rebuilt it, got it MOT'd, age verification from VJMCC, photographs of the frame and engine numbers, And sent off the documents, a few weeks later, got a letter asking to see the bike at my local DVLA office, which was 40 miles away in Bournemouth. They said I could ride it there as it had a valid MOT, and insurance, even though there was no VIN issued at the time. So I got to ride it on an 80 mile round trip, with no Numberplate!
I was shown a list of available numbers, and chose one, then given an age related number a week later, no problems. If you play the game by their rules, they are quite obliging, in my experience.
3
« on: February 09, 2019, 09:55:25 PM »
I just put a Tracker on mine. 
4
« on: July 23, 2018, 10:55:59 PM »
This is from the FSM:
5
« on: April 12, 2018, 08:30:58 AM »
Hi Ash; I’ve saved a PDF copy of it.... I’ll put it on a disc and send it to you.
Same address as the parts history book. Is there anything else you want?
Regards,
Nigel.
6
« on: April 10, 2018, 11:36:15 PM »
Hi Ash; did you get my parts history guide? And is it any use to you?
Regards,
Nigel.
7
« on: December 16, 2017, 09:53:21 PM »
Also I was asked sometime ago if I could help out with manuals and parts fiches in PDF Format; and I have spent hours like others on this site converting them into PDF’s and I’d love to put the CB250/400N and CB250 RS manuals that I have on the site. I haven’t compressed the files; and they are quite large, but good quality as a result. I’ve also got CB350/4, FSM and parts fiche, CB200,
CB360, CL450; and some Suzuki manuals as well.
Night.
Nigel.
8
« on: December 16, 2017, 09:39:22 PM »
I was referring to the search features on HT website; and I’ve been guilty in the past of asking without searching the data base for answers.
I’ve seen the questions asked by Ash about his bikes; but I don’t have the answers he wants so I’ve stayed silent.
I have found some of the respondents to be quite condescending sometimes in replying to newbies questions and also found some of the questions to be frankly moronic in their context but we are talking Americans here. They start off “ so I did this.. I have this ... and it’s clearly obvious that they haven’t used the search engine. It tends to make me tune out.
Peace and good health to all.
Nigel
9
« on: December 15, 2017, 09:55:25 PM »
I’ve been following Hondatwins for a couple of years now; and you’re right the content has decreased; but what exactly has decreased? There are newbies posting asking for help with their bikes; and some are asking obvious questions, to which the answer has been given loads of times, and can be found with a little searching.
Most of them are new members with little or no experience of the bikes they just bought.
When we started out did we know the answers to all the questions? If you did you don’t need this site, or HT.
I have noticed questions being asked that are easy to answer and most stay silent. The ones who do respond are usually the high scoring members; some have 20 K + responses and are regarded quite rightly as Guru’s.
It’s a phase; and as the membership gain knowledge we can all benefit. I was a newbie once, so were you! Give them space light; and some of them will blossom into useful members of our site!
10
« on: August 10, 2017, 10:57:04 PM »
Julie, TL1, and TL2, are the connections for the Tail Light, when you turn the standard Ign switch to off (first position) everything is disconnected, and the key can be removed. On (second position) switches the tail light on if the lights are switched on, the key cannot be removed; and park (third position) switches off the Ignition and Headlights but leaves the front parking light on if fitted; and the tail light on. The key can be removed.
Hope this answers your question!
Nigel.
11
« on: August 09, 2017, 01:22:24 PM »
Also check the tachometer drive is meshing with the cam gear...
12
« on: August 05, 2017, 11:03:01 PM »
You can use an LED for your indicator but as they are polarity sensitive, you'll need two 1N4000 diodes from Maplins or Radio Shack, (pennies) and put one on the orange wire, one on the light blue wire, polarised as in the diagram then your indicator will work properly.
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13
« on: December 26, 2016, 08:51:00 AM »
I read somewhere that you should fill the pump with Vaseline to prime it before trying to start the motor?
Nigel.
14
« on: December 23, 2016, 01:54:32 PM »
I agree with Trigger; I've used this style before and they seem to be chargers rather than maintainers, and boiled a battery dry over a few months. Also if you have your Oxford documents do you have a Three year warranty? Worth checking before you bin it!
Nigel.
15
« on: April 18, 2016, 03:44:24 PM »
Get a left handed drill bit. As it bites it will wind out the screw.
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