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Messages - Gixxer-18
17
« on: April 13, 2016, 12:00:01 AM »
Definitely possible Oddjob. The side panel badges would be a great start, sketch out what you want it to look like on a piece of paper, and then make a JPEG of it with your phone and import it into a program like Adobe photoshop, it can then be straightened and rounded off in any way you want, but I'm not the person to tell you how to do that, you'll need a "Yoof" to show you how, I'm old school when it comes to drawing! As far as materials go, you can stereo lithograph in metals, like bronze, but it uses a laser to fuse bronze powder, and very intricate patterns can be made, rather than a printer that deposits a plastic dot just like your home printer does, layer by layer.. Don't try lazering aluminium or magnesium powders though, they will burn like thermite! You would make a pattern to the shape and size you want with the filler material, and then make a mold depending on what material you want to cast, rubber, plastic or metal. Very small tolerances can be printed, down to microns in some instances. Here's a video what can be achieved.: http://youtu.be/DAQm5P5p4zwThere are limits to the size you can print, big printers are more expensive than the small ones. Yes if you have inlays just print the separate parts and cast the different colours, then join them later.
18
« on: April 12, 2016, 10:19:36 PM »
Hi Ian, as it stands at the moment, I'm learning how to draw the *.STL files: "Stereo-lithography".
I was a Technical Illustrator in another life....so the dimensioning and hard copy is easy, it's the conversion to a file that can be read by the printer that is the difficulty for me at the moment! once they're drawn, the file could be used by anybody with access to a 3D printer, and printed several at a time, and I'm wondering if we got together with Ash, and put together an Aladdin's cave of these hard to find parts, after all they're only computer files and can be stored and sent electronically.
I would need the original part for dimensioning, and can "repair" any damaged, missing or perished parts at the drawing stage. Once the parts are printed they can be used to make molds for casting in other materials.
What your think?
Nigel.
19
« on: April 12, 2016, 09:25:55 PM »
Sikaflex is a good choice, I use it on the boat all the time. I would also try Superglue to join the split, then shrink wrap over the tube to provide an airtight joint but leaving the tube longer until the heat has shrunk the tube, let it cool and then trim the edges flush. Next option is to get a new one 3D printed in a suitable material. The shape doesn't look too complicated, and once the .slf file is created you can print off as many as you'll ever need. You can do the drawings for other components too, I've drawn the little plastic parts in the switchgear that is always crumbling, and looking to get a 3D printer for my own use. I'll start another thread about that though.
Regards,
Nigel.
20
« on: April 03, 2016, 01:38:16 AM »
I've spoken to Honda UK in Power Rd; Chiswick, and these models will be available in a year from the day before yesterday. Honest!.
21
« on: March 24, 2016, 05:14:25 PM »
I volunteer, I can scan and convert to PDF my manuals; I have a couple, a FSM for the 350F and the 1971 CB500/4 with the blue cover. including the Haynes manuals though I'm not sure about the copyright aspect of some of material? ..
Nigel.
22
« on: March 23, 2016, 06:51:42 PM »
Excellent Idea! Yes Please. Would it be limited to only SOHC?
23
« on: March 21, 2016, 04:59:56 PM »
Well done Ash! You got a billy bargain there! With regard to getting these bearings; I contacted Nachi; they declined to quote. So I don't think these will be available much longer! The good thing as you said was that they don't wear out very often!
Nigel.
24
« on: March 21, 2016, 01:33:33 PM »
Ash; If it's at the right price I'd buy it straight away. I managed to find a new one too; but it came with a new countershaft. All the other bearings are available; it's just this one that seems elusive at the moment, so well done for finding it. Have you also got the half locating ring for it?
Nigel
25
« on: March 14, 2016, 01:38:45 PM »
Ash, I'm out at the moment, but when I get home I can send you all the specs from the 1972 CB500 FSM If it's any help?
Regards,
Nigel.
26
« on: March 12, 2016, 08:46:32 PM »
Just to Clarify; the Crankcases don't wear; unless the bearing siezes and spins the half bearings in the Crankcases,
The Crankshaft wears; and the Bearings wear.
You disassemble the Crankcases, and measure the wear with Plastiguage.
That tells you the wear on your crank main journals.
You select new Journals from the FSM to fit your crankshaft wear.
You go online to buy new Journals. But the usual suppliers don't have all the colours you need.
What can you do?
Probably your old half shells have more than enough meat on them to reuse!
Clean Oil, regular oil changes and TLC will keep your engine going for another 40 yrs!
HTH
NIGEL.
27
« on: March 12, 2016, 07:17:05 PM »
It's the Thought that counts. If you got rid of the Daffodils and polished the Marshall, she'd understand!....
28
« on: March 10, 2016, 01:55:56 PM »
Thanks for the help guys; I'm going with the professional wheel builder route, I don't have access to a Lathe or know anybody with that sort of experience so I will go to the professionals.
Thanks for all your help.
Regards;
Nigel.
29
« on: March 08, 2016, 11:04:51 PM »
No, Oddjob, I haven't specifically checked the bearings, but I have experienced a crumbled rear wheel bearing on a 400/4 which I had to ride through France from the Italian border back to the UK in the early 80's and it doesn't feel like that did at all. I'm pretty certain it's an oval brake drum, the same pulsing happened on my Triumph Tiger 100 only when depressing the brake lever. Unbolting the brake drum, rotating the drum and realigning the bolts helped a bit, but fitting a new drum which is also the rear sprocket on the Triumph bike cured the problem.
I can't change the drum without replacing the hub on the Honda, and the PO had the hub powder coated black when he fitted a new rim and stainless spokes, I think either the spoke tension has pulled the drum out of true, or the heat from the Powder Coating has distorted it but don't know what the preferred method of truing the drum is, hence this thread?
Thanks Mick, for your reply which came in as I was typing this reply.... Glad to hear your thoughts! I had thought that if the hub was stripped of the spokes and trued up it might distort again as the rebuilt rim was pulled up tight. I'll talk to Central Wheels tomorrow for advice.
Nigel.
30
« on: March 08, 2016, 09:49:12 PM »
Hi, I've got a CB250RS, SOHC single, and a pulsing feeling in the back wheel under braking. I'm pretty certain that's an oval drum. To rectify this do I need to strip the rim, tyre and spokes from the hub, and then get the ovality in the drum turned true, or keep the rim and drum under tension with the spokes as the drum is trued? What's the preferred method? And would a specialist wheel builder be able to do this, or is the drum a scrapper and I need a new hub, it's a shame as the wheels were rebuilt by the previous owner with stainless spokes and new rims!
Thanks
Nigel.
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