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Messages - Gixxer-18
31
« on: March 07, 2016, 11:08:23 PM »
Polished Stainless looks like Chrome, and shouldn't rust, or are you looking for originality? Hex; M8 x 56mm
HTH
NIGEL.
32
« on: March 02, 2016, 09:20:43 PM »
I fitted the LED flasher rather than the resistors, but found the lamps not as bright as incandescent bulbs. Shop around to find the brightest LED bulbs.
Also if you use Led's in the gauges, it will only flash with the switch in one direction, as the lamps are diodes; and only allow current to flow in one direction. Using a flasher unit for LED's allows you to use an Led bulb in the gauges.
HTH
Nigel.
33
« on: March 02, 2016, 07:57:32 PM »
Silly Question, have you closed the purge button on the gauge? If it has one...
HTH
Nigel.
34
« on: February 09, 2016, 04:41:06 PM »
If there are no marks on the piston crown; The oversizes are sometimes cast into the piston in the pocket either side of the gudgeon pin holes.. (wrist pins)
HTH
Nigel.
35
« on: February 08, 2016, 01:29:19 PM »
This'll help, it's for British bikes, but it will work on Japanese ones.
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36
« on: February 05, 2016, 09:47:03 PM »
You've been stitched up!
37
« on: January 24, 2016, 06:32:09 PM »
Before you spend, a CB350/4 rear axle works as a puller for the CB500/4 Rotor. Use the wheel spacers as the slide hammer. The Puller for the 350/4 I used was an M18x1.5 bolt., or if you haven't got the CB350/4 Axle, an M16x1.5 bolt is cheaper than the Honda tool!
Regards,
Nigel.
38
« on: January 22, 2016, 11:36:21 AM »
Hi Ash, try googling this stuff, it's not cheap, and it's branded, but that branding should be removable with MEK. It's about 1mm wall when heated and shrunk. Use the 12/6 size 12mm to 6mm. I've got it on some of the boats wiring in the engine room.
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It might not be of any use but it's a lead!
Regards
Nigel.
39
« on: January 08, 2016, 07:12:37 PM »
Thanks Orcadian! I've just read your rebuild blog for the 350/4 engine, and I've learned several things from your rebuild, first off I'm going to build an engine stand like you did, it looks to make life so much easier. Secondly Honda Moly 60 paste, for the main and big end bearings bearings, I was just going to lube mine with engine oil, but I take your point that the engine may stand for a while before I start it.
Thirdly, the Cam Chain tensioner on my 350 was stiff as you stated yours was and sure enough two bright marks are visible where the chain has rubbed...unfortunately I haven't got the facility to turn a replacement spindle so I'll be gently filing the burrs off.
You drew attention to the pip on the Primary Chain guide, I'd noticed them and wondered if they had any significance, now I know!
Also explaining about the lower engine mounting bolt lengths, when I removed mine both were bent, I wondered why, now I know why too! Fortunately there's no damage to the oil gallery. I shall be measuring and fitting tha correct M10x74mm bolts!
Thanks for sharing your experience, I'm looking forward to including these nuggets in my rebuild blog.
Regards
Nigel.
40
« on: January 08, 2016, 02:07:58 PM »
I have noticed how diligent he is when he posts, I'm also following him over on HondaTwins, and always look at both sites to see how he approaches solutions. Without people like him taking time out of their lives to help others the motorcycling world would be a lesser place. I'm pleased to know him, and the other regular contributors to these forums, without them I'd be stuck. Probably on the hard shoulder of a motorway.
Regards,
Nigel.
41
« on: January 08, 2016, 01:37:31 PM »
Well I suppose if we don't try we will never know if it can be done? One day one of us will need to replace that bearing, or the collar, at least the bearings are still available! But the shafts? That's another thing! I guess someone with access to a Lathe and a milling machine and the ability to harden the shafts could if they are inclined re- manufacture parts, but most of us are on a budget and working out of their Garage or a shed if they are lucky, and without access to the skills needed to do that. If you are restoring these bike in the future, with parts becoming unobtainable more of us will need to get creative with how we address these problems.
As a Newbie to this forum, Please don't think I'm looking for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist, my original post was how to replace the bearing without having to buy a NOS shaft assembly, out of curiosity more than anything.
Ash, I envy you having access to all that equipment! If you do go ahead with a dismantling, I'd love to hear how you got on!
Regards
Nigel.
42
« on: January 08, 2016, 11:41:15 AM »
Thank you Ash, and thank you too Ka-ja for your information! I think you're right that it is a difficult job; I didn't think it would not be!
I guess it's a tight press fit and a bearing puller might be the answer to removing the oil seal bushing (Collar) and then the bearing, then the gear, if you can get one to fit between the two! Applying enough heat to "sweat" the collar without destroying the bearing is a consideration too.
If a very rusty/damaged shaft is available, and I mean a real scrapper, like chipped splines etc, I wouldn't mind having a go.
Ash your comment about the collar not being hardened is interesting too, i wonder if the old collar could have been drilled and then split with a nut splitter, the bearing or gear replaced, and a new collar heated and shrunk back on?
One of those Honda brilliant simple designs, but a bugger to repair without replacing the whole expensive assembly conundrums.
Regards
Nigel.
43
« on: January 08, 2016, 12:17:46 AM »
It's the output side, the bearing nearest the final chain sprocket.
44
« on: January 07, 2016, 10:48:23 PM »
Just Curious, is the countershaft bearing replaceable on a 350/4.? There's nothing wrong with my bearing, and I'm going to reuse it.
but I can't see how the bearing locating ring can be removed? Has anyone done it?
Is the oil seal surface ring an interference fit on the countershaft? If that's removed it then looks like the bearing and then the gear could be taken off the shaft?
How would you do it? , bearing in mind that a NOS shaft, gear, and bearing assembly is on sale for €229.00! And only four left!
Nigel.
45
« on: January 06, 2016, 03:12:59 AM »
Interesting about the price hike on components Ash, I was looking at my 350/4 Oil pump today and thinking of replacing the 40 yr old O rings in it. A certain UK supplier wanted £28.13 inc VAT for eight Rings. I luckily own a Scuba diving business, and we use lots of O rings, Buna N NBR 70 shore hardness, ideal for this job, so I put the numbers and dimensions into the computer. The chart shows each O ring and its Honda number, and dimensions as best I can tell from the flattened black "Washers" in my pump. The Three digit numbers are the BS Equivalent nearest these dimensions, and I will check tomorrow at the Dive Centre for stock. If I can get them I will make up some packs, I think they also fit the 400/4, and I will also do some for 500/4's though they have different diameter large o rings, the 15mm are the same.
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I hope to have more info tomorrow.
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