Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: Bookmark1 on February 08, 2023, 12:46:44 PM
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I seem to have a fair bit of movement in the rear hub. The wheel has just been rebuilt and is off the bike but whilst I was bolting the sprocket back on I noticed that the flange lifts 3 or 4 mm out of its housing - is this normal? If not, any ideas what may be causing it.
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Check to see if the sprocket carrier is worn on the in side ;)
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Sprocket carrier looks fine but it has been so well cleaned that you probably wouldn't see signs of wear. I have taken photos but the files are too big to share.
I did notice that the retaining ring sits a few mm proud of the flange - could it be that the bearing isn't seated deep enough?
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Im sure ring should screw down tight so someting is not right
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This is the flange. The grooves on the inside are deep and full - I can’t see any signs of wear.
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Sprocket carrier looks fine but it has been so well cleaned that you probably wouldn't see signs of wear. I have taken photos but the files are too big to share.
I did notice that the retaining ring sits a few mm proud of the flange - could it be that the bearing isn't seated deep enough?
You may know this already but file size is not an issue if you use Flikr then paste the code on here. Somehow Flikr does it all automatically.
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Did you remember the spacer inside the left hand bearing in the hub? See if you can drive the left hand bearing in a little more whilst making sure the inner spacer that goes between the 2 bearings remains straight. I seem to recall if the bearing isn't fully home it makes the retainer sit proud and thus the carrier isn't tightened down enough.
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Is there a lip at the far end of the carrier.
Also make sure it is pushed on firmly over the D ring. And greased.
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Thanks for all of the advice. I'm going to try to have another look at it before the weekend and will let you know how it goes
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Im sure ring should screw down tight so someting is not right
There are many CB500/550s around where the ring is not down tight. This doesn't need to be a reason for concern. Bearing should be fully down though. That's easy to check. On assembly the sound will tell you. If then the retainer does not go fully down, it's because the bearing - probably an aftermarket product, is not a 100% identical to the OEM one.
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Actually DR I'd say it is a cause for concern as if it's not right the sprocket won't align with the chain, doesn't take much misalignment for it to chew up the side links. It's supposed to sit flush, if it doesn't something is wrong. The D ring BTW is supposed to sit with the flat side up, see if that's right Bookmark and try and drive that bearing down a bit further. What size bearing is fitted? Just so we can see if it's the right number.
Make sure the carrier ring and the hub side area are well greased.
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The sound will tell you when you've driven the bearing all the way down. I often wondered why you sometimes will not be able to tight the retainer all the way down. But... often double side sealed bearings are used to replace the OEM ones. Could that be the cause?
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The wheel bearings came from David Silver. The left one was an original part and the right one was an OEM part.
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Double seal or single or none, so long as it’s the right number they should all fit.
I never buy genuine bearings these days unless they are special ones like the gearbox, I do tend the however buy the same make, Koyo for Koyo for instance, same exact bearing for less than half the price generally.
Have you tried the bearing in the hub without fitting the sprocket carrier?
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The D ring BTW is supposed to sit with the flat side up, see if that's right Bookmark and try and drive that bearing down a bit further
Make sure the carrier ring and the hub side area are well greased.
Didn't we have that discussion a while back and consensus was that it is flat side to the hub.
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We did but I asked someone who was dismantling his for the first time and he replied his was flat side out.
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Mine was a first time dismantle and the ring was flat side down. I have to assume that the factory got it right, but I guess there is always room for error.🤔
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It’s possible that if the carrier is a really tight fit the seal could grab and flip as the carrier is removed. Must check and see if the groove in my Lesters is round or flat at the bottom, they are almost ready for powder coating so easy to get at. If it’s round it’s a clear indication the seal fits that way.
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Many thanks for all of the advice and tips. Had another go at that bearing and it did indeed go in another couple of mm before being fully seated. Once everything was greased up and put back together the retainer fitted almost perfectly flush and the movement in the flange was gone. The wheel is back on the bike and is as steady as a rock 👍
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It might be a daft comment but I did wonder if when the wheel was fitted to the bike & the rear axle torqued up if that 2 mm movement would have gone as a result?
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I get what you’re saying Ted. The movement was noticed after the wheel had been mounted first time but the spindle had not been fully torqued up because there is still a wee bit of work to be done. Some of the movement may have been overcome if it was fully torqued but the fact that the bearing was not properly seated would probably have come back to bite me on the bum.
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I get what you’re saying Ted. The movement was noticed after the wheel had been mounted first time but the spindle had not been fully torqued up because there is still a wee bit of work to be done. Some of the movement may have been overcome if it was fully torqued but the fact that the bearing was not properly seated would probably have come back to bite me on the bum.
When I was fitting the wheel bearings in my 400 I did seem to have to use a lot of violence when drifting them in - there was also the bounce factor of the other side of the hub - must be nice to have the facilities of a press rather than a lump hammer.
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The carrier is sort of free floating Ted, the retainer is what keeps it in place, if the retainer is loose so is the carrier. Iirc when the retainer is fitted correctly there is a very small gap of around 0.5-1.0mm between the flange of the retainer and the carrier. It cannot be locked tight as under acceleration the carrier compresses the damper rubbers and twists forward, hence why it needs to be greased between the hub and the carrier bush, it’s why the grooves are there to retain grease. Seen quite a few where the grease has either dried out or the bearing was fitted dry that wore the bushing in the carrier oval.
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The carrier is sort of free floating Ted, the retainer is what keeps it in place, if the retainer is loose so is the carrier. Iirc when the retainer is fitted correctly there is a very small gap of around 0.5-1.0mm between the flange of the retainer and the carrier. It cannot be locked tight as under acceleration the carrier compresses the damper rubbers and twists forward, hence why it needs to be greased between the hub and the carrier bush, it’s why the grooves are there to retain grease. Seen quite a few where the grease has either dried out or the bearing was fitted dry that wore the bushing in the carrier oval.
Thats exactly what happened to mine. The carrier was dry and worn and the grooves had almost disappeared. It all manifested in an evil wobble of the handlebars which I'm happy to say has now gone once I'd sourced a replacement. I had no idea how complex and expensive comprehensive rebuilds of both wheels would turn out to be.