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Topics - cbxman
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1
« on: December 01, 2023, 01:59:59 PM »
Hi Folks,
I noticed that there was some weave whilst out riding my CB360, so I checked the play in the rear fork and found some movement. On inspection the bushes were slightly worn, but the collar was quite pitted.
In an attempt to fix this, I purchased a Tourmax (labeled on the pack as SNB-102) Upgrade Kit from Motorcycle Products, their part number 034064.
The kit is nicely made and uses IKO needle bearings and end bearings where the weather seals would be, but it had no weather seals. The OEM seals won't fit over the end races that they supply. I considered modifying the OEM seals so they would fit, but their thickness would add to the already correct dimensions of the kit and would cause binding with the Frame mounts...even if you could get it in the space!
I have requested information from Motorcycle Products, but have yet to receive a sensible response. There appears to no way of contacting Tourmax directly...
In the photo I sent to Motorcycle Products to explain the situation, you can see the issue. If by any chance the end bearings are actually waterproof, which I doubt, then the problem goes away.
I have put a "Desperately Seeking" message up for the collar, but not holding out much hope as it is a shared part with other models.
Any ideas out there?
Cheers,
Jerry
2
« on: December 01, 2023, 01:30:39 PM »
Hi folks,
SORTED
Tourmax Upgrade Kit fitted along with drilling, tapping and fitting a grease nipple.
The Part is 52141-333-000 which seems to be shared with the CB360, CB350Four and CB450K
It seems these are unobtanium.
It seems that the usual suspects are all out of stock.
Fingers crossed,
Jerry
3
« on: October 14, 2023, 11:17:28 AM »
Hi Folks,
My CB360 does not have a side handle for pulling the bike up to the centre stand. One of the POs who restored and powder coated (heavily.grrr!) the frame had snapped the corroded bolt in the rear frame and couldn't be bothered with removing it before coating. I have just managed to drill it out and am looking for a handle for it.
I'm not too fussed as to condition. Shiny would be nice, but rusty can be painted black. I would like to be able to raise the bike without breaking my fingers.
Cheers,
Jerry
4
« on: October 11, 2023, 08:48:17 PM »
Hi Guys,
I recently purchased a CB360, which I believe is a UK model as the V5 does not mention a previous registration abroad. It is in nice order and goes surprisingly well. However, I am puzzled by the variants that I see whilst researching this bike.
It was first registered in July 1975, but it is possible that this bike is an old stock model from '74, or maybe even '73.
My bike has the front disc brake rather than the 2LS drum which the some? of the '73 bikes had. My bike does not have the idiot light pod between the gauges, just the lamps in the speedo. There do not appear to be any other obvious variants, Other than the CL360, so when I find '74 - 5 - 6 bikes advertised for sale most seem to have the idiot light pod. The bikes like mine seem far and few between.
Looking on CMS, they only show the US versions. DSS seem to only recognise the G5 model....whatever that means.
Is there a CB360 aficionado out there who can shine a light on it. There seems to very little info about this short lived but attractive bike
Cheers,
5
« on: June 13, 2022, 05:34:39 PM »
Hi Guys,
The clutch on my 750 K1 was not too good. It would drag. Not nice changing gears. So searching on this site revealed some interesting stuff.
Based on some of those threads, I bought a K6 clutch on eBay which had a very nice looking lifter plate on spec......just in case.
I have pulled the clutch today an hey-ho the lifter plate is broken with three of the spring posts having fractures. I guess this would be a major contributor to my problems.
The steels are quite badly stained. Maybe not to the point of serious corrosion, so I think I will buy new.
Now having got this K6 clutch assembly, I don't want to break it. I have read that they can be broken if the pack is not assembled correctly, so care is required here.
I thought I would check the spring lengths and found that all four of them were around 35.5 mm, which would be much too long if the 30.5mm WSM spec is to believed. I'm wondering if that extra length may have caused the lifter failure.
Any idea what the correct length should be?
The lifter mechanism looks good though
And the friction plates are barely worn.
Photos attached
Cheers,
Jerry
6
« on: April 26, 2022, 09:18:23 PM »
Hi guys,
I have I have had my CB750 K1 since October 2021 and have been trying to tune it so that it idles and rides nicely….but it won’t. I can get it to idle well ,or pick up on and off the throttle, but not both. I am looking for your help……
I have checked the timing. TDC mark is where it should be.
The advancer had sloppy springs, so I cut the springs, now it advances nicely to full at 2500 rpm without jumping about under the strobe. (As recommended by HondaMan on .net)
Compression 160 psi on all within a pound or so of each other.
Sparks well in excess of 20kV on new TEK coils, resistor caps and non-resistor plugs. (NGK D8EA and ND X24ES-U). Dyna S fitted…..same issues with the points plate.
Carbs stripped numerous times.
It had a Keyster kit installed, so I have re-fitted it with Keihin jets #40 and #120, with the original Keihin needles. The only non-keihin parts are the float valves and the Needle Jets, which had been damaged somehow by a PO.
I checked the float heights out at 26mm, but I thought I would also check the fuel levels with the clear tube method and found that set at 26mm, the fuel level was really low. Reading about this, I have found that the fuel level should be 1-2 mm lower than the bowl rim, so I have adjusted the floats to give me the necessary level. This ended up with the floats being set at 22mm when measured the usual way. I think these floats must have come from another bike as this early K1 should have brass floats and there are two distinctly different pairs of plastic floats in there…ho hum.
I Have changed the slow jets to #35, #38 and the stock #40. Mains #110, #115 and the stock #120. I have tried most combinations of those and with different needle heights. Some just do not work well, but some combinations will work just like mentioned above. Hard work changing needle heights!! I can take carbs out in minutes now!
I had run out of ideas, so I had another think…. maybe I would check the valve timing. Rather than removing the engine for a look see, I would try to measure what the cam is doing….and so ….entered the dark world of timing diagrams….EEK!
The WSM states Intake opens at 5˚ BTDC and closes at 30˚ ABDC. Exhaust open at 35˚ BBDC and closes at 5˚ ATDC. I understand those, but I wondered how to measure them.
I used a degree wheel and set it up to TDC, but for convenience I used cylinder 4 as it is closer to the degree wheel. I used dial gauges on the tappet screws to measure the closing and opening of valves. The numbers I gathered made no sense to me, so I’m seeking the truth from this august body of SOHCers.
This is a diagram which I thought would help me figure out whether the cam timing is right or not. I’m even more confused now. There must be a procedure to take the book numbers and convert them to reality, but I can’t seem to figure it out.
Of course there are two strokes not shown (compression and power) hence why the valves are so close and out of their natural order, but I think it is simpler to present it this way?
Cheers,
Jerry
7
« on: February 03, 2022, 12:04:57 PM »
Hi,
The rear rim on my lovely K1 has suffered at the hands of a gorilla with a JCB when changing tyres. This is not what I would think could be regarded as patina, rather carelessness, so I would like to replace it with a nice used rim that has reasonable chrome and is straight that someone has changed whilst doing a restoration. Preferably with the correct "DID" logo near the tyre valve.
I could just replace it with a new rim from DSS, but would like it to match the general patina of this old machine.
Please PM me if you have such rim, or you where I might find one.
Cheers,
Jerry
8
« on: December 21, 2021, 10:57:49 AM »
Hi folks, Well, here it is ...my first question for this august body of knowledge....  I have been busy with my 'new' CB750 (ex Andrew-S and UKPete CB750 K1 manufactured 11/70) and have noticed something rather un-Honda like. The front right hand foot peg is further forward than the left one. I have checked the parts numbers and it looks like I have the correct parts. I also have been looking at photos of other bikes and it looks like the correct parts are fitted. Please have a look at these photos and tell me if this is normal. The oil pipe seems to be pinched, but not distorted, so I'm thinking there be some slight variations in foot peg mount design and maybe the wrong one is fitted. It maybe I'm just too fussy, but I don't think Mr Honda would have left it like that. Cheers, Jerry
9
« on: December 02, 2021, 10:31:15 AM »
Hi Folks,
Having sold my Triumph TR4A Classic Car recently, I was on the look out for a CB750 and jumped straight to the CB750 part of this forum to do some research.
I did introduce myself there and discovered another Triumph car owner ( AndrewS ) with whom I had a chat about all things Triumph and bikes via PM. I didn't realise immediately that this was the same Andrew who had sadly lost his wife last year. However, I then realised that he was the same person who was offering me his bike for sale. I challenged him to keep the bike as I didn’t want him to make a hasty decision, but he was adamant that he wanted to sell and there was no way he wanted to continue with restoring his bike. So I bought it.
As with many people who have some cash left after raising a family, I was on the lookout for one of my dream bikes from my youth. The CBX was one of them and the CB750 was another. In more recent times, I realised that I had never owned a stroker, so I found a nice unrestored Suzuki GT550 J. I am so glad I did - it is a bundle of fun and I love riding it. There have of course been many other bikes....yada...
I am now in the process of bringing this 750 K1 up to serviceable condition.
Cheers,
Jerry
10
« on: October 08, 2021, 10:39:33 AM »
Hi guys,
I'm Jerry. I have 3 bikes currently none of which have a single overhead cam!
I am selling a classic car shortly and am looking to buy 750-4 with some of the proceeds. I have always admired these bikes and just maybe it is time to enjoy one. Having 'nut and bolt' restored a couple of bikes (CBX1000, CB500-4)over the past few years, finding a complete one in good condition is the best way forward now parts are so hard to find.
Please excuse my lurking until I have absorbed enough info to start asking sensible questions.
Cheers,
Jerry
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