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Messages - ColinHH
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« on: March 25, 2022, 11:45:37 AM »
Yeah, it's always the simple, but not necessarily obvious, things! Mine is only a baby at 48yrs old.
2
« on: March 25, 2022, 10:25:29 AM »
Thanks all.
Problem solved. It was the two fibre washers holding the fuel tap to the tank. I've put standard fibre washers in for the short term whilst I await delivery for the OEM part.
3
« on: March 24, 2022, 10:23:46 PM »
Bryanj,
When I was referring to the bowl,I meant the bowl at the bottom of the petcock, not the bowl on the carb. The bowl on the petcock (where I think the fuel would flow into from a leak from the two screws) is before the 4 hole seal isn't it? I will check the washers tomorrow though and see how it goes.
4
« on: March 24, 2022, 06:08:12 PM »
OK, after a couple more hours I finally found the problem with the carbs overflowing. I hadn't seated the bowl gasket properly on the side that I couldn't see. This meant that some of the gasket was overhanging on the inside which intern was stopping the floats from coming all the way up. Refitted the gasket and no problem. However, the stopcock is still leaking. It is a Genuine Honda part and genuine 4 hole gasket but it still drips in the off position. With regards to the washers on the two screws holding the petcock to the tank, how can that make the taps leak? Wouldn't any fuel leaking through those washers just go into the petcock bowl and then enter the petcock in the normal way? My understanding is that when the switch is in the OFF position the plate is being pushed against the two exit holes and inlet hole so no fuel should be getting through?
5
« on: March 24, 2022, 12:42:19 PM »
CB750K4 1974.
Bike is running great but I noticed that the petcock was still delivering petrol even in the off position. It's only a drop every second or so but overnight it loses quite a lot. So I bought the gasket with the 4 holes in it and fitted it hoping that would solve the problem, but no it still leaks. I've tried everything but can't get it to seal 100% so assumed that this is probably normal. So the next problem is that one of the carbs loses this petrol through the overflow, so I thought I need to adjust the float level. Same as on my BMW R100 i.e bend the little tag slightly upwards to get it to shut the gas off a little earlier. However, I am either flooding the carb or it is dry. The very slightest of movement on the tag gives either too much fuel or none at all. I can't believe that it is so sensitive! I am moving it what seems like 10ths of a millimetre. and just can't get it right. Am I missing something? Could it be anything else? I have flushed the fuel inlet jet and confirmed that it does shut of fuel when the valve is put in the closed position. HELP please, I have been playing with this for 2 days now!
6
« on: November 25, 2021, 01:06:43 PM »
7
« on: November 25, 2021, 12:54:31 PM »
Thanks again for replies. Looks like I am going to have to accept that I am not strong enough any more and use the piece of wood under the rear wheel. There is a handle which makes up part of the rear rack as pictured. But it's about 45 degrees rear of the stand so your not pulling upwards. The R100 is much easier for me.
8
« on: November 25, 2021, 12:01:48 PM »
No, there is no grip/handle, just the lip of the seat pan. That's why it's so difficult.
9
« on: November 25, 2021, 11:27:07 AM »
Thanks for the replies. The rear tyre is 120/90-18 which I think is standard? The rear wheel sits about 1 1/2 inches of the ground when on the stand, see pic and the rear shocks are also standard I believe. Also the actual stand looks to be in good condition with no obvious signs of it being bent in any way. I will have a look at the pivot shaft and see if that is the issue but if not I will just have to. keep practicing. On both of my other bikes there is a good grip at about mid level of seat but on the K4 there is only the seat pan, which doesn't seem strong enough to take the full weight of the bike so I have to grip the rear rack which doest enable me to get the leverage whilst my foot is still on the side stand. Have attached some pics.
10
« on: November 24, 2021, 02:32:50 PM »
Finally picked up my '74 K4 after it had been in storage in UK for 6 months after buying it in January. Now got it back to France and am tinkering with it. It's in immaculate condition so not much to do but have done valve clearances, timing and points, as well as a good clean and polish. Carbs cleaning is my next job. The thing I am really struggling with, is getting onto the centre stand! I also have a BMW1200GSA which is 260Kg wet and I. can get that onto the stand without any problems. Same with my '78 BMW R100. Technique for both of those is to stand on the centre stand tang and the bike is almost lifted onto the stand with very little need to apply any other effort. The stand acts as a lever. Standing on the K4 side stand doesn't seem to do anything and I have to lift and pull with all of my might to lift it onto the stand. I can't keep doing this as I will do my back in at some stage. I am putting a piece of wood under the rear wheel to make it easier but wonder if there is a problem with the centre stand lever? Anybody else experienced this and have a solution?
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