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Messages - gtmdriver

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196
OK so let me confirm I have the process right

1) Slacken idle speed fully so it is not doing anything
2) Back out the mixture screws all the same at the same setting (Honda manual would suggest 1 turn)
3) Set up each carb with a 3mm drill in the slide to give a) bench sychronisation and b) a small amount of air to allow initial start
4) Fire it up (hopefully)
5) Balance carbs and fine tune idle mixture

1) No! Tighten up the idle screw to lift the slides up until the lowest one is a nice sliding fit on whatever drill you are using as a gauge.
2) Using the screws and lock nuts on the top of the carbs adjust the other three slides to give the same sliding fit on your drill.
3) Remember to back off the idles screw or the revs will shoot sky high when you fire it up.
4) Set each mixture screw to 1 or 1 1/2 turns out from lightly bottoming.
5) Fire it up and warm it up. Ensure the Ignition is correct.
6) Set up the carbs using a vac gauge.

197
On my 350F I set the idle screws 1 1/2 turns out then I used a 3mm drill on the engine side of the slides to set all the slides to the same height.

I used the large idle screw to open up all of the slides then used the adjusting screws on top of the carbs to equalise the heights (then remembered to wind the idle screw back again).

When I put the vac gauges on it and fired it up the carbs were so close that, were I not completely OCD, I could have left them alone. Only one carb needed a tiny adjustment.


198
CB350/400 / Re: HT Leads on coils
« on: February 03, 2016, 10:18:19 AM »
No.

The Boyer kit that comes with their own coils is different to the kit designed to use the OEM coils.

1.5 ohm is correct for that particular Boyer kit.

The lower resistance allows more current to flow to produce a fat spark but the Boyer kit you have bought is designed to handle that current.

As to mountings I can't help you there. I'm the person who inelegantly ty-wrapped the box to the frame.

Stick with it though. You'll be very pleased with the final result.

Have you tried contacting Boyer as regards the mountings? They are usually very helpful.

199
CB350/400 / Re: HT Leads on coils
« on: January 31, 2016, 10:26:17 AM »
If you buy the Boyer kit you will need their coils too as Boyer specify a minimum coil resistance of 4 ohms.

As I posted earlier you can use the DSS coils with the Boyer system but you need to wire a 1.6 ohm ballast resistor in series with the power (black) lead on each coil.

I posted a few photos about the Boyer system a couple of months ago so if you search under my user name you should find it.

http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,8979.msg61594.html#msg61594

200
CB500/550 / Re: Alternator Wiring Loom Connectors - WHat goes where?
« on: January 29, 2016, 09:48:58 AM »
Here's the relevant section of the wiring diagram for my CB350F.


201
CB500/550 / Re: Aluminium repair
« on: January 28, 2016, 10:04:09 AM »
I've used Lumiweld rods with great success on lots of jobs.

The key to getting a good bond is to get the workpiece itself hot enough so that the filler metal melts when it touches the job rather than just melting in the flame. If the metal itself is not hot enough the filler metal just stays on the surface and scrapes off afterwards.

I welded this filler neck into my Moto Guzzi rocker cover using Lumiweld.


202
CB350/400 / Re: HT Leads on coils
« on: January 26, 2016, 05:08:51 PM »
The lower the resistance the more current will flow through the points and the condenser so their working life will be affected but points are not so critical as electronic ignition.

My Boyer system, for example, specifies a minimum coil resistance of 4 ohms.

203
CB350/400 / Re: HT Leads on coils
« on: January 26, 2016, 07:55:14 AM »
Not checked the resistance on the original coils yet, but the pair of Silvers replacements read 3.4 and 3.1 ohms. I am assuming this will be okay as I am running points. Is this correct. Cheers.

You should be OK with these. The points may burn a little quicker but you should be OK.

204
CB350/400 / Re: CARB OVERFLOW FROM BOWL TUBES
« on: January 24, 2016, 10:30:18 AM »
Are the floats moving freely? It sounds like they may be sticking if you had to tap the carbs to make them seat.

If the floats are moving freely then it must be the needle valves which are not seating.

Did you replace the needles and seats and if so were they OEM or aftermarket?

Some of the aftermarket stuff is not OEM quality.

205
CB350/400 / Re: Electronic Ignition
« on: January 22, 2016, 08:42:47 PM »
I looked at that but unfortunately my OEM system was the wrong type so I went for the Boyer set up.

206
CB350/400 / Re: Electronic Ignition
« on: January 22, 2016, 12:46:33 PM »
You could also look at the Pamco system.

http://4into1.com/pamco-electronic-ignition-honda-cb350f-cb400f/

That is also self contained with no box.

It has had a lot of good reports in the States and turns up on ebay regularly.

207
CB350/400 / Re: Electronic Ignition
« on: January 22, 2016, 09:48:42 AM »
How can all the plugs fire at the same time ?

If you look at the picture you will see that there are two pickups on the backplate, one for each coil. You will also see that there are two magnets on the rotor so both pickups are energised at the same time and both coils fire at the same time so all 4 plugs fire together.

Here's a section of the instructions.





I also emailed Boyer Bransden querying why they used this system.

"Can you tell me the thinking behind using two magnets on the rotor and firing all the plugs together rather than using a single magnet and firing the plugs in pairs like the OEM points system? Is it just a question of keeping the rotor balanced?
 
Does this system have any significant effect on spark plug life?
 
John Dickens"

........and this is their reply.

"Hi John, There are a few reasons. Its more accurate, once its completed one revolution, the system will find a central point for sparking and that will never change. Because of this, it makes setting up much easier and can be done on any cylinder. It also burns un-burnt fuel ready for the next firing stroke which improves the running and emissions of the engine."


208
CB350/400 / Re: HT Leads on coils
« on: January 21, 2016, 10:32:51 PM »
If you replace the coil or coils take care that you get them with the same primary coil resistance.

The Honda coils on my CB350F had a primary resistance of 4 ohms but the replacements from David Silver only had a 2 ohm resistance which would have drawn far too much current through my Boyer ignition unit. I had to fit a pair of 1.6 ohm ballast resistors in series with the 12v supply.


209
CB350/400 / Re: Electronic Ignition
« on: January 21, 2016, 10:28:10 PM »
I've just fitted the Boyer unit to mine. It works very well with smoother running and a smoother idle.

The hardest bit was finding a place for the electronic box.



Fitting the backing plate was easy once the advance retard unit was removed.



One thing to remember is that with the Boyer unit ALL the plugs fire at the same time whereas with the standard system they fire in pairs. This will wear the plugs faster than normal so it's worth checking them more frequently.

210
CB650 / Re: Brake pad choice, sintered vs organic
« on: January 12, 2016, 09:50:02 PM »
I have used both organic and sintered pads on my 1989 Moto Guzzi California, a bike which when 2 up and fully loaded weighs around 1/2 a ton.

I found that the sintered pads have more initial bite but pretty much the same overall braking power BUT they do wear the discs significantly which is certainly a consideration when OEM spares are no longer available. I'm going back to EBC organic this year.

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