Post by: JustcallmeMrT on August 28, 2014, 12:17:25 PM
The good - minimal surface rust on the frame and swingarm, engine looks in good shape, already has a dual disc conversion, and it came with loads of spare parts (extra set of carbs, braided steel brake lines, original spoked wheels, deeptone exhaust, and the bottom end of the original engine).
The bad - fork tubes are pitted, probably need replacing. Wiring has been "altered" and it looks like a rats nest. Front brakes are seized. Bit worried that the engine has been replaced by PO, but hopefully all is right. The added front disk setup looks like it needs some proper bolts to make right. Headers need replacing - far too rusted to work with.
What do you all think? Did I do alright for £440?
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/26302a9586852a1ebde1c220bb97b524.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/d71ce5eb157fa9a3867b6434f7552fb4.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/345ac2bf46fefbb21f6a2e044ad945ca.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/67803172242439b43c301c22c51461bb.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/7aa2e6fd078629c66112ece4fce97074.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/936f76951922610727b5649d923f6da6.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/a3207ed88374921b932237bda4e3055b.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/0509d86f67a03054ff04129e75cedc54.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/45ac0262531bd5529382e508fcac34a2.jpg)
Post by: matthewmosse on August 28, 2014, 04:38:04 PM
Post by: mickwinf on August 28, 2014, 04:51:03 PM
Post by: Green1 on August 28, 2014, 04:53:40 PM
Mick
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on August 28, 2014, 05:10:23 PM
There's someone (new) looking for info on fitting them. Maybe you could swap notes.
Steve
Post by: Trigger on August 28, 2014, 05:43:25 PM
Post by: mick on August 28, 2014, 06:52:15 PM
Post by: Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP) on August 28, 2014, 06:55:12 PM
Wish you well
Bitsa
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on August 28, 2014, 07:55:35 PM
I spent the afternoon starting to tear things down and cleaning. A few problems have been found, and so here's a few more questions.
Oddjob, the clocks are still blue, so not too bad with sun fade. As for the adjusting bolts, on both sides they have been replaced with screws - any idea where to get a set of the original bolts?
Also, I the second brake was mounted in the exact mirror of the original. I think I read somewhere that you need to make some slight adjustments to get the pads to align correctly - can someone help me out on how this is done?
Lastly for today, as I was removing the brakes I noticed that one of the mounting bolts was missing. As I wiped away some grease I noticed why - the threaded area in the fork has been cracked. Any suggestions on a remedy, or do I need to find a replacement?
A few pics of the work today.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/424c159299d6e939ac8e5f72cbe67fbc.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/2c8010d8af499db4ec8c9e2d6005e798.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/e2d75ba05d1444952ea5fd9c318bf8eb.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/1624ec7a82cbf967934d0d35d25cd3eb.jpg)
Post by: Trigger on August 28, 2014, 08:04:24 PM
Post by: Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP) on August 28, 2014, 08:08:17 PM
Highly recommended no big deal
Cheers
Bitsa
Post by: Trigger on August 28, 2014, 08:23:13 PM
Post by: matthewmosse on August 28, 2014, 08:58:26 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on August 28, 2014, 10:11:04 PM
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/af4d867d6891829680e755da139a57e4.jpg)
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on August 28, 2014, 10:13:06 PM
I have some fork cases that has the same cracked thread. Not sure if it is the left or right one that has the damage. Will have a look tomorrow and let you know.Thanks Trigger, that'd be much appreciated.
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on August 28, 2014, 10:14:15 PM
I had a few of the same issues on a 550 a fair few years ago the cracked brake mounting on the fork lower might be weldable but I just replaced mine as a replacement was cheap at the time though I did ride it like that for a bit. I cannot recall what i did to resolve the disk alignment for twin disking - think I just replaced filed a light champher onto the pads but I did have piles of comstars and disks off a job lot of comstars around so could mix and match a lot. I think nowadays I would look at taking the hub back 2 mm on the disk seat but that requires quite a big lathe as it is not possible to safely dismantle a comstar wheel and rebuild it.I'm intending to put the original spoked wheels back on. Would it be the same procedure?
Post by: simonster on August 28, 2014, 10:17:14 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on August 28, 2014, 10:34:13 PM
If you intend to try and repair the fork case mounting lug, you should check out the Laser aluminium repair system demonstration video on you tube. It brazes with aluminium at less than 300 degrees and it has twice the strength and no nasty flux required. It works a treat on anything non ferrous and its well worth the £25 for five rods. I've tried standard aluminium brazing rods and the laser rods really do the business. Anyone with a mapp or butane torch could work with them for cracks, holes stripped thread on all ally components. I've just used them for brazing up a hand made ally battery mount on my cafe conversion and the join is stronger than the ally pieces. It should work for your lug.Thanks Simonster, will have a look. Might be a relatively easy fix.
Post by: tom400f on August 29, 2014, 09:12:07 AM
I lied, one more question . Is this the original brake master or has it been replaced to run the dual front disks?
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/af4d867d6891829680e755da139a57e4.jpg)
Looks original to me. There must be a splitter presumably where the union with the lower hose(s) is.
Whether it's up to the job I couldn't say.
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on August 29, 2014, 09:51:45 AM
Yep, the splitter was on the lower hose. Overall the whole system looked pretty rough. I can get a brand new aftermarket Goldwing GL1000 master cylinder setup from DSS for £35, so I think I'll do that instead of rebuilding what I have, as I don't think the original can push enough fluid.I lied, one more question . Is this the original brake master or has it been replaced to run the dual front disks?
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/af4d867d6891829680e755da139a57e4.jpg)
Looks original to me. There must be a splitter presumably where the union with the lower hose(s) is.
Whether it's up to the job I couldn't say.
Post by: Trigger on August 30, 2014, 04:16:26 PM
Post by: Johnwebley on August 30, 2014, 04:34:54 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on August 31, 2014, 09:35:08 PM
Just had a look in the store and I have a left fork case in good condition if you require one. The right one had a snapped bolt that someone made a mess of trying to drill out.Ok, about to show just how new I am to this.... when you say left, do you mean left as seen by the rider?
If so, it's the same side as my good case.
I looked into the laser aluminum brazing rods, they look pretty good, might give a try repairing with those.
Any thoughts?
Post by: Trigger on August 31, 2014, 09:49:01 PM
Post by: matthewmosse on August 31, 2014, 09:50:15 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 01, 2014, 01:56:25 PM
Left is your left hand as you sit on the bike. I have a good left fork case when you are requiring a right one. Am i right?Yes, my left one is the cracked one, it's the right fork case I need. Maybe ebay will prove useful.
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 01, 2014, 01:58:04 PM
Pretty sure on my bike it was the left side one that lost a big chunck. I would be wary of welding on brake mounts without x ray to check it is good right to the root, maybe over the top but a small crack at the root of a welded joint can proporgate and grow -I never did welding on alloy but when learning welding at collage, destructive testing of welds really made you realise how a tiny flaw in the form of poor root fusion could grow and snap a weld that was thicker than the parent material. I know nothing of these low temp alloy fusion methods so am happy to stand corrected.I'll definitely have to look into it further. I have no desire for a bodged braking system. Thanks for the insight!
Any chance you still have the good right fork?
Post by: Bryanj on September 01, 2014, 02:42:53 PM
Post by: UK Pete on September 01, 2014, 06:08:54 PM
pete
Post by: matthewmosse on September 01, 2014, 07:38:58 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 01, 2014, 10:01:43 PM
Apologies, I just looked again and its the small bolt hole you have fractured, probably be fine with alloy welding, for some reason I had it in my head it was the big un that had cracked, probably because on mine it was the big bolt lug. I am bound to still have the forks in question and if needed can dig them out and sell you the spare lower leg provinding it passes muster, ie no stripped threads etc. One word of warning though, with so many project machines I am inclined to take an age to find bits or even forget why I went out to the shed and get distracted by rusty things so may need reminding.You guys are amazing with all the help and offers. I'll keep you posted as the build progesses - I'm holding fire on new parts until I know how much the engine is going to cost me.
Post by: Trigger on September 01, 2014, 10:10:34 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 04, 2014, 10:24:36 AM
Post by: Trigger on September 04, 2014, 11:20:52 AM
Post by: bike-pusher on September 04, 2014, 11:44:10 AM
I remember twinning the discs on my old SOHC CB750, back in the day. You need longer bolts to pass through both discs - Gold Wing GL1000 units fit. And then there's the speedo drive - the CB550 tin cover was necessary on the the 750.
The master cylinder will not flow enough fluid. Trust me on this.
You might like to know that the CB550 shares the back wheel with the CB500T. However, for some extraordinary reason there are two different types of brake plate, and you need the spacers as well. I shoved a CB500T rear wheel into my last CB550 because the original had cracked.
And that's a real one to watch for - the cast iron liner is very thin and can crack if it gets corroded. Then you have an oval rear drum. I imagine a good engineering workshop would be able to put in a new cast iron liner and machine it to fit, but it's easier to replace the whole wheel.
Post by: matthewmosse on September 04, 2014, 02:07:12 PM
Regardds bleeding the brakes, my preffered method is a bit of clear pipe, comes with most bike batteries for free and a big seringe to squirt fluid up to the master cylinder from below, I had several that would not bleed the conventional way , this way got it moving, then I suck the fluid back down from the master with the seringe until it runs clean and free of air bubbles.
Post by: tom400f on September 04, 2014, 02:47:57 PM
Regardds bleeding the brakes, my preffered method is a bit of clear pipe, comes with most bike batteries for free and a big seringe to squirt fluid up to the master cylinder from below, I had several that would not bleed the conventional way , this way got it moving, then I suck the fluid back down from the master with the seringe until it runs clean and free of air bubbles.
Exactly this. How I did it and takes no time. Firm hydraulic action thereafter.
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 04, 2014, 04:47:29 PM
The original bleed valves seem pretty corroded, so I figured if I had to replace that I'd go the speed bleeder route as I'd read a number of posts where they were recommended. But, if originals work fine with the methods you give then I'll stay original.
The comstar wheels are going to go. I have the original spoked wheels and like the look much better.
Post by: Bryanj on September 05, 2014, 07:00:09 AM
Post by: bike-pusher on September 05, 2014, 07:23:26 AM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 09, 2014, 06:19:14 PM
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on September 09, 2014, 06:33:53 PM
You have 069A carbs!
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 09, 2014, 06:43:04 PM
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on September 09, 2014, 08:02:32 PM
We do talk a strange language don't we?
Post by: Trigger on September 09, 2014, 09:41:54 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 09, 2014, 09:49:58 PM
Post by: Trigger on September 09, 2014, 09:52:12 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 09, 2014, 09:59:55 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 09, 2014, 10:04:21 PM
Not the nicest condition but I'm optimistic.
Post by: Trigger on September 09, 2014, 10:07:17 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 09, 2014, 10:12:07 PM
Post by: Trigger on September 09, 2014, 10:19:02 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 09, 2014, 10:30:06 PM
Post by: Trigger on September 09, 2014, 10:36:25 PM
Post by: tom400f on September 10, 2014, 09:09:31 AM
Indeed I did. All parts seem to be there. I can't say I wasn't worried. Now all I still need to get from him is the original rear spoked wheel.
Are you paying for the bike in installments as well ?
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 10, 2014, 07:29:18 PM
I wish I were....Indeed I did. All parts seem to be there. I can't say I wasn't worried. Now all I still need to get from him is the original rear spoked wheel.
Are you paying for the bike in installments as well ?
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 12, 2014, 11:25:44 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 13, 2014, 09:22:00 PM
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/13/73d749c1c2b8822db8cced3e4d67f70b.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/13/b7d8c833575cf6bfe1cb875d1d8b8026.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/13/50a959ddb67fb730cd847eb0059bdbdd.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/13/a240bdb91a15657d5021ef1ff1a2cbab.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/13/d84adbd24ac0440555cd3da7dc9d4d12.jpg)
Post by: Trigger on September 13, 2014, 09:40:38 PM
Post by: matthewmosse on September 13, 2014, 09:41:42 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 13, 2014, 09:46:40 PM
You should of taken the tubes out before you put them in the tank. Why would you want to take the bank apart??Turns out the ultrasonic tank at work wasn't big enough to take the whole bank, so I was considering doing them singly. Instead I opted to soak them in a bucket of carb cleaning solution and use lots of elbow grease. Not too bad so far.
Post by: Trigger on September 13, 2014, 09:53:45 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 13, 2014, 09:58:06 PM
I would not advise someone to take these apart unless they know what they are getting into. There are so, so many little parts to them. But, you can get them apart to change the 0'rings in the T pipes by taking the 8 big cross head screws out of the big alloy rail that holds them together.Ok, now more ignorant questions - what is the T pipe?
Post by: Trigger on September 13, 2014, 10:05:21 PM
Bloody hell, this is hard to explain.
Post by: Trigger on September 13, 2014, 10:17:56 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 13, 2014, 11:55:51 PM
Post by: Trigger on September 14, 2014, 12:20:16 AM
Yes, if you remove those 8 screws the cast plate (as you have called it) will swing up and all the carb body's will be lose enough to change the O'rings on the T pipe's.
It also maybe worth paying someone to sonic clean the bank in one piece.
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 14, 2014, 08:37:22 AM
Should be in the kit but, i have never got one from DSS. I always get from Japan or the Dutch carb guru.What about the short rubber tubes running between the carbs - do those need replacing?
Yes, if you remove those 8 screws the cast plate (as you have called it) will swing up and all the carb body's will be lose enough to change the O'rings on the T pipe's.
It also maybe worth paying someone to sonic clean the bank in one piece.
Post by: Trigger on September 14, 2014, 02:19:40 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 14, 2014, 03:38:57 PM
I think you are on about the vent tubes. You just cut a bit of hose for those.Is that these?(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/14/63f59bfb256b24af3a89e3a5048c83b6.jpg)
Also, how advisable is it to still have those carbs ultrasonically cleaned? Well worth the £40 it'll cost me?
Post by: Trigger on September 14, 2014, 05:29:44 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 14, 2014, 06:27:40 PM
Well worth the money. Need to be stripped down a bit more before sonic clean them. Yep, those are the tubes.Ok, will get it done this week. I pulled out the needle jets today, what else should I remove before sending them to be cleaned?
Post by: Trigger on September 14, 2014, 06:36:18 PM
If you need a new screw kit try TSS Fasteners. Tina is a diamond. She may not list a kit for your carbs but, she has one because i work with this company to provide them with fasteners sizes for all CB & CD motorcycles.
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 14, 2014, 07:28:28 PM
Sorry but, i can not see what stage you are at. From your last picture you need to take out those air screws. Did you get the tubes out?I have gone as far as the haynes manual will take me. I've removed all the jets, but have not removed the rubber tubes in the photo of my last post or the T fittings that you mentioned. I've also not removed any air screws or anything of that nature.... don't even know where those are?!
If you need a new screw kit try TSS Fasteners. Tina is a diamond. She may not list a kit for your carbs but, she has one because i work with this company to provide them with fasteners sizes for all CB & CD motorcycles.
*sigh* I'm so new.... Thanks for tolerating the ignorance and for all the help so far!
Post by: Trigger on September 14, 2014, 07:43:40 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 14, 2014, 07:48:39 PM
In your last picture you can see the air screw. It is too the right of the T pipe if you look at the picture. It has a brass head and when you remove it there will be or should be a spring. One per carb.Got it. So, I should remove the air screws, the T pipes and those tubes from between the carbs, anything else?
Post by: Trigger on September 14, 2014, 07:57:12 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 14, 2014, 07:58:18 PM
Do you have the brass tubes out??? They will have little holes down the sides.Yep, got them out.
Post by: Trigger on September 14, 2014, 08:03:02 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 14, 2014, 08:03:57 PM
The brass screws from the float bowls??? If that is it they should be ready for a dip. Take the bank of carbs, the bowls, the tops and everything you have removed to be cleaned. Then all you have to do is put them back together. Polish the bowls and tops. And set the float height which is 22mm on those.Thanks Trigger, you've been a huge help!
Post by: Trigger on September 14, 2014, 08:05:36 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 17, 2014, 07:47:19 PM
I would not advise someone to take these apart unless they know what they are getting into. There are so, so many little parts to them. But, you can get them apart to change the 0'rings in the T pipes by taking the 8 big cross head screws out of the big alloy rail that holds them together.Another carb question. Measuring the o-rings on the T pipe, looks like they're 12mm OD, 8mm ID and 2mm thick. Is this right? Would a set of nitrile rings of this size be the correct replacement?
Post by: Trigger on September 17, 2014, 08:49:22 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 17, 2014, 09:00:57 PM
Post by: Trigger on September 17, 2014, 09:08:21 PM
Does the carb kit from DSS not look like this?
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 17, 2014, 09:13:36 PM
I am not in the UK at the moment so can not give you the right measurements. I use Viton O'rings but, you will need something that is fuel resistant. Just looked up a carb kit from Japan and it comes with the O'rings>> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/74-76-HONDA-CB550K-CB550F-CARB-REPAIR-KIT-SET-OF-4-REPAIR-KITS-INCLUDE-CI1220-/251460221180?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item3a8c3278fcNope, missing some of those O-rings.
Does the carb kit from DSS not look like this?
http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/graphics/parts/PCRK%20CB550F_large.jpg
Post by: Trigger on September 17, 2014, 09:18:14 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 17, 2014, 09:30:39 PM
I am not in the UK at the moment so can not give you the right measurements. I use Viton O'rings but, you will need something that is fuel resistant. Just looked up a carb kit from Japan and it comes with the O'rings>> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/74-76-HONDA-CB550K-CB550F-CARB-REPAIR-KIT-SET-OF-4-REPAIR-KITS-INCLUDE-CI1220-/251460221180?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item3a8c3278fcGood god, that kit from Japan has more bits and is half the price! Half a mind to return the DSS kits and order those in the link you sent.
Does the carb kit from DSS not look like this?
Post by: Trigger on September 17, 2014, 09:37:21 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 17, 2014, 09:40:42 PM
If you rush, it will cost you more. Take your time ;)*sigh* Seems to be true. Picking your brain seems to help too!
Why does that kit from Japan have so many different jets in it for each carb? No indication of what they are in the description. Any ideas?
Post by: Trigger on September 17, 2014, 09:50:26 PM
Post by: JamesH on September 18, 2014, 06:37:30 AM
A lot of members use Cruzinmage but, you must keep the value of the order down to avoid custom charges. They are only showing a picture. You will get a full carb repair kit from them.I've used 5+ sets of the cruzinimage carb kits for my 750's - generally good but be very careful about using the pilot jets supplied in the kits. I've had several fail (ie shear) on installation - and trust me that wasn't down to me being heavy handed. I always buy new keihin pilot jets to supplement the kit. James.
Post by: AshimotoK0 on September 18, 2014, 06:49:59 AM
If you rush, it will cost you more. Take your time ;)*sigh* Seems to be true. Picking your brain seems to help too!
It's great that you have come on here MrT asking loads of sensible questions. Just what these forums are all about. You will soak it all up and then become one of the knowledgeable guys on your model of bike and pass it onto to Newbie's. It perpetuates so that there is always going to be somebody on here with the 'knowledge' . I knew F all about the CB750 in 2008 but loads about the 400/4. You soak up all of the info from various sites/individuals then feel that if you ever went on Mastermind your specialist subject would be "................" . You guessed it! Keep em coming!
Cheers .. Ash
Post by: Trigger on September 18, 2014, 08:19:59 AM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 18, 2014, 12:18:47 PM
A lot of members use Cruzinmage but, you must keep the value of the order down to avoid custom charges. They are only showing a picture. You will get a full carb repair kit from them.Ok, just need a confirmation here - the eBay ad says up to 1976, so I asked Cruzinmage if this would fit a 77 cb550f2 and he says no, and that he doesn't yet have a kit that fits this year/model. Is he playing it safe and you know the kit will work, or will I have to stick with that DSS kit I bought?
Post by: Trigger on September 18, 2014, 05:27:08 PM
DSS is a member of this forum, so i do not think he will give you a refund because you have found them cheaper ;) You only have some 0'rings needed so just order the Viton 0'rings. There are many company's selling Viton on ebay.
Post by: Trigger on September 18, 2014, 05:32:26 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 18, 2014, 05:36:04 PM
Post by: Trigger on September 18, 2014, 05:51:46 PM
Here is a model guide, but this is USA>>> http://www.sohc4.net/cb550-model-guide/
Post by: JamesH on September 18, 2014, 07:41:43 PM
James, i have found that a little Vaseline helps the parts to fit a lot better. I always used tap2 until the day i ran out. Found a old jar of vaseline as a replacement for tap2 worked a treat.Same here Graham - vaseline is the way forward. I think it was a QC issue with the pilot jets in the kits i was shipped. Basically the thread pitch seemed to be very slightly off and resulted in too much shear stress on effectively a hollow tube. Anyway, just my experience - given the incredibly tight tolerances on the pj's in particular i've always felt more comfortable with oem keihin parts. James
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 19, 2014, 11:08:43 PM
Just been looking at the pictures of you bike you posted and it is a bit of a bitsa. It has a F2 tank but, K3 side panels. Are you sure that this is a F2 or is it just the frame is stamped F2?(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/19/dec08a537e32c5a2c8db6c23218cbbc6.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/19/ef3ab7bf898c5cf18d9b1de9eb09c457.jpg)
So what does it all mean?
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 19, 2014, 11:13:08 PM
Post by: Trigger on September 20, 2014, 12:27:53 PM
The frame is a F2 but, i have been looking at the engine number which could be a late 1975 to 1976. Can't pinpoint the number to a country.
All his doesn't really matter as the F1 & F2 are the same engine.
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 20, 2014, 09:32:23 PM
More progress today. I used electrolysis to de - rust my tank last week, and today chemically etched and lined it. I'm hoping that I'll finish rebuilding the carbs thus week, then on with the new bits and ready for the first test start next weekend.
Here's my rundown prior to first start:
Carb rebuild.
Oil change and new oil filter
New air filter
Replaced perished connectors between air box and carb
New fuel strainer (old one was broken off)
New plugs
Tank de - rusted and lined.
Anything else you guys would recommend before I try to press the starter button?
Post by: Trigger on September 20, 2014, 10:19:42 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 20, 2014, 10:32:00 PM
Hold on. I would not just press the button. Try kicking it until the oil light goes out. Remove the out side tappet covers to make sure that the oil is getting to the top end. Thinking about it have you checked the tappets?Haven't even a clue what a tappet is....
Here comes another google search...
Post by: Trigger on September 20, 2014, 10:37:10 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 21, 2014, 09:06:32 AM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 21, 2014, 10:40:47 PM
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=161315331524&alt=web
Post by: Trigger on September 21, 2014, 10:49:08 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 21, 2014, 10:51:35 PM
Post by: Trigger on September 21, 2014, 10:54:59 PM
Post by: tom400f on September 21, 2014, 11:23:33 PM
The DSS one (more expensive)
PS this is the best thread ever :D
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 22, 2014, 06:53:08 AM
Not with SOHC on it. Only Honda on it.Honda is fine.
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 22, 2014, 06:54:40 AM
http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB550F1-SUPER-SPORT-1976/part_5019/Thanks Tom, trying to muddle my way to a working machine.
The DSS one (more expensive)
PS this is the best thread ever :D
You guys have been awesome!
Post by: Trigger on September 22, 2014, 03:22:49 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 22, 2014, 03:31:44 PM
I have a smoked plastic one for sale. The cafe boys use them, so at night time it shows off the sparks from the points ;D.I'm curious... got any pics?
Post by: Trigger on September 22, 2014, 03:34:32 PM
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 22, 2014, 03:38:05 PM
Send your email address to me on PM and i will send some pictures.Done.
Post by: Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP) on September 22, 2014, 06:46:35 PM
Cheers
Bitsa
Post by: JustcallmeMrT on September 22, 2014, 07:33:31 PM
Can we start a new topic takes me forever to scroll through this lotFair enough, I'll post new questions as new topics.... but be forewarned, there will be many topics!
Cheers
Bitsa
Post by: Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP) on September 22, 2014, 07:36:40 PM
Cheers
Bitsa
Post by: tom400f on September 23, 2014, 09:38:29 AM
Can we start a new topic takes me forever to scroll through this lot
Cheers
Bitsa
Bitsa - I use the link at the top Show unread posts since last visit. (http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?action=unread) Then click on the "new" icon and you arrive at the next exciting installment.
Occasionally it gets confused and says there are "No unread topics found since your last visit."
in which case try Click here to try all unread topics. (http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?action=unread;all;start=0).
No scrolling and nothing gets missed.... ;)
Post by: Bitsa (Ralph Wright - RIP) on September 23, 2014, 11:37:41 AM
Bitsa