Honda-SOHC

It's either the wrong chain if it's like that or the front or rear sprocket don't have the right number if teeth.

I removed the left side top silencer, loosened the clamps on number two front pipe to find a nice stress free position. Lightly nipped up the clamp on number two port.
I removed the bracket from the upper silencer then re-fitted it as previously. When re-attaching the bracket I could see that the top slot needed a little opening up at the top of the slot to allow the upper exhaust to drop down a tad. A small amount seems to make a difference at the tail pipe end. It all went together well except when clamping the hanger bracket it wanted to pull out of the balancer joint. The Delkevic top bracket has a half circle reinforcing plate attached to the bracket. If I fully tighten the hangar bolt it starts to tip the rear of the silencer.

I'm chewing over the options - might try and fit a sawn in half washer to keep it all flat at the same angle .

Update Just used a slightly thicker stainless washer that has a slight dished shape, fully tightened the nut on the bracket all stayed in place.

Just noticed my Chihuahuas photo bombed my exhaust pic. 😁

rear view by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

So this morning before Brunch I fitted the right side system (I still plan to remove the left upper for fettlig) including looking for the parts and the right spanner done in 40 minutes - it went like a dream.

Slight improvement on previous method of fitting the Delkevic system. Firstly I fitted the lower pipe threading on the clamp beforehand. I held the pipe into number three exhaust port whilst holding the silencer end pretty much in line with the inside of the hanging bracket in place - I temporarily used a thinner bolt to pop it through the bracket to hold the silencer roughly in position. I then fitted the collets into position and nipped up the clamp ensuring it felt free, cleared the frame, the engine it looked nice and square into the port. I then removed the temporary bolt fitting one the right size and nipping it up so the bracket was fully against the hanger.

I fitted the joint & clip  onto the lower silencer, the top silencer with clamp over the pipe without the rear bracket in place I fitted into the area of number four port so I could slot the top silencer into the joint pipe. Bungee strap wrapped around the end of the silencer to stop the rear joint from poping out of place. Front collets in place then nipped up checking it was clear of the frame and engine. There is plenty of room to then fit the rear silencer bracket in place, tighten the two nuts. Then push back the main bolt to slip on the second bracket.

Lower silencer bracket is on the inside of the hangar, upper silencer is on the outside - nip up exhuast clamps and finally put a nut on the hanger bolt. At the moment I have no rear footrests fitted as I'm not as yet happy with the way they "hang".

Clearly I learnt a lot from doing the left side - I will be removing the left top silencer over the next few days to fettle so it's as good as the right side.

Good work Ted, I will be doing the same job soon. I also like the look of those alloy rims as they remi d me of my original 500 in 1975.

Thanks Mick I was going to go for Gold anodising as on my 400 as it would look good against black panels,
I went for the alloy anodising instead with slightly wider rims as were fitted to the bike by PO.
Pleased to hear a positive comment as I still have hidden regrets about not choosing gold.

One thing for sure I'm pleased the Nut Brown Frame never happened.

So started my first fit for the left side exhaust pipes. I ended up using the old front clamps as the new ones appear to have quite tight holes causing me difficulty on number two front pipe as the studs that were Helicoiled are at a very slighty wrong angle.
Quite happy for now to use the old clamps that I had previously  cleaned &  painted.

I fitted number two front pipe first  as its the lower silencer unit. lt lined up quite nicely but number one upper silencer was not wanting to fit with the rear joint miles out. After several attempts and a tea break I tried a new idea.

I fitted the front pipe end first with the clamp in position but not the two collets. With the mounting bracket removed I fitted the connector pipe in place (not tighted but clamp in place) then slipped in the two collets on number one exhaust and nipped up the two retaing nuts finger tight. I then slipped the mounting bracket in place nipping up the silencer nuts and the top hole bracket just slotted in place. I used an old bungee strap on the end of the silencer to keep the connector in place rather than clamping it up.

Tomorrow i am minded to make some minor adjustment to the slotted holes on both brackets so that the front pipe sits more freely into the cylinder head. With a lot of faffing about it took me almost two hours to fit one side including tea break.  So far I've just fitted the left side exhausts - I still need to do a little fettling as I want to make the front pipes fit better into the cylinder head - I might need some wider slots in the top holes of the brackets to allow the silencers to move a mm back. Just to release any unnecessary tension.
 
side view by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

.end view by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

I have used the taper roller kits sold by Pyramid Parts without issue, the kit includes a decent lower seal arrangement. I did not use the top seal to avoid any issues with sufficient top threads. I'm not an engineer so made some measurements of the bottom taper roller height to ensure I put the right shim below the bearing. A simple comparison of bearing thickness/height between original plain bearing and taper replacement was straight forwards. I have a cheapish tool that can remove the bottom races without damage.

The shocker bushes can be a pig to remove depending on the level of rusting - deffo take them out before painting.