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Topics - deltarider
1
« on: April 14, 2024, 03:00:01 PM »
Bought from Marktplaats (the Dutch kind of Ebay): a new original (?) 22870-323-621 clutchcable for all European models CB500 Four for € 20,-. Haven't opened the packaging yet, as I discovered some differences with my old clutch cable I still have, which definitely is original. The one I bought now, is not only thinner, but also lacks the thicker part. Inner cable is not lined. Seller says he bought it a very long time ago from a shop that quitted business. The question is: were the CB500 clutch cabels always lined? If not, could this be an original, like maybe on the early CB500s? Or is it despite its packaging and partnumber inside the packaging an imitation? Who knows more?
2
« on: March 17, 2024, 10:01:52 AM »
Never liked the stuff. The result was always poor, leaving the disk somewhat greasy. Yesterday I've used denatured alcohol on sponges that are slightly abrasive. The sponge on the left is my favourite. The white side is a miracle. The bigger white sponge on the right was also good. It's only that later on the package of the latter, I read that it can leave gum residue. No real problem. Wipe the disk once more with denatured alcohol on toilet paper.
In case you wonder what that tiny container with the pink stuff is, my CB Four dealer/mechanic applies it also in the bore of the caliper and the piston, prior to assembly. My late uncle (a car mechanic) also practised that, be it that he used the blue Ate grease. So I think it's safe. The piston, 47 years old, could be used again. The same for the caliper. A friend had put it in his ultrasonic cleaner and after a quick wipe with some denatured alcohol on paper, it was super clean. Today I will fit the repro brake pump 45500-300-010P (CMSNL). A friend had praised its performance.
3
« on: March 16, 2024, 02:48:50 PM »
I often wondered: what can you do to get the CB500 clutch operation as smooth as possible? For instance: is it safe to grease the pushrod with brake grease or is it better to stick to oil?
4
« on: March 13, 2024, 04:07:42 PM »
I'm reassembling the caliper and I'd like to learn the correct procedure. I'm using conventional DOT 4 brake fluid.
Prior to sliding the piston in, you need to smear some brake fluid in the cylinder. I understand that.
In an ideal situation do you:
a) also wet the rubber seal with some brake fluid?
b) also wet the seal's groove with some brake fluid?
c) also wet the piston with some brake fluid?
Reason I ask is, that I assume it's best to have as little brake fluid (hydroscopic) outside, to prevent attracting moisture and things getting dirty.
Silicone grease like Ate is in principle only applied on the sides of the pads, to prevent sqealing.
In the situation shown in the pic, so with the piston fully in, is it OK to smear some silicone grease in the area around the bore (indicated by blue arrows)? Will it prevent dirt build up?
To prevent future seizures, is it OK to smear a little copaslip on the bleeder's thread, or is there a risk you will contaminate the brake fluid?
How about the threaded end of the fluid pipe, that goes in top of the caliper?
Thanks in advance.
5
« on: March 06, 2024, 08:24:12 AM »
6
« on: January 06, 2024, 04:13:28 PM »
Replaced my brake pads by ones with more meat. Now I can't get the front wheel to spin as freely as I was used to. Brakes worked well before and the release was also good. Should I have used this tool (pic) to push back the piston somewhat before fitting the new pads? And if I do that, do I then need to open the bleeder or the brake fluid container at the handlebar? I have read the manual about 'drag', 'halve a turn', '0,15mm' etc. but for some reason I don't quite understand what that caliper adjust bolt does or is supposed to do. Can there be something wrong with that bolt?
7
« on: January 02, 2024, 11:50:01 AM »
What's this mark in the rim around the clutch adjuster for? Does it indicate the clutch is worn when you can align the big slot in the adjuster with it?
8
« on: November 14, 2023, 03:57:16 PM »
I forward a question asked in the German forum: Will a CB500 BUMPER, REAR (PN: 84101-323-671) also fit a CB550F2?
9
« on: September 12, 2023, 12:04:04 PM »
The other day I bought this wheel second hand. The spokes obviously need cleaning.
I am not interested in super shiny spokes. As they original were, is good enough for me.
Above all I want to avoid options that although may first result in very shiny spokes, but thereafter will require frequent maintenance to avoid rusting.
I have been suggested a few options:
Clean them with tin foil and some water.
Clean them with tin foil and water with some salt added
Clean them with tin foil and water with some vinegar added
But maybe you have better suggestions
10
« on: August 01, 2023, 10:09:27 AM »
Never quite understood why those upper vent tubes are there. Yes, they vent, but so do the overflow tubes.
11
« on: July 13, 2023, 10:48:37 AM »
Am on the look out for a new open drive chain and prefer the ones that come with a clip link (see example in the pic). Only... i don't see that many around.
I looked it up in the various riders reports in the archives and the average lifespan of a chain on a CB500 is 10.000km. The one I have now, a standard DID50 has become audible at 7.000 km already. In the other forum someone advised to have the heavy duty - whatever that may be - version*, but I don't see them around.
* Some parts lists mention a DID50HDS. Does it still exist?
12
« on: June 25, 2023, 03:39:43 PM »
No, no plans to open it, but I always wondered; what does the killswitch look like inside? Brass contacts? Steel? Any pics?
13
« on: June 12, 2023, 09:51:24 AM »
Just read this in the international forum.
Question was: I just wanted to verify that turning IN (clockwise) the airscrews makes it run leaner. I ask only because I've been working under the assumption that turning them out brings in more air thus more lean. This is for a 1976 750F with 064A carbs.
The answer given is:
Yes.
The idle-air screw in those carbs (all of the 750 roundtop carbs) controls the amount of fuel-air mixture that gets pulled up for each intake stroke. It is already mixed as fuel & air inside the tiny tube on the top of the idle jet, where those holes are, when air from the little brass orifice at the back of the carb's bell met the rising fuel in the jet's metering hole. Then, the position of the screw admits more (or less) of this mixture during the intake suction.
I think the internet's description of these as "air screws" or "idle fuel screws" may be adding much to the confusion about these gizmos. It is the size of the jet (#40) that determines the RATIO of air-to-fuel, and the screw then controls HOW MUCH of this mixture gets added for each stroke. If you add too much, it runs rich, and vice-versa.
When the screw is turned more inward, it increases the amount of time required for the fuel-air mixture to rise up into the carb's throat. If turned more outward it lets this happen sooner during the intake stroke. In between each intake stroke the fuel falls back down to the little emulsifier holes in the top of those idle jets, and if the idle adjuster screw is turned inward more, it pinches off the flow, making things happen slower. This in turn makes the amount of [fuel + air] entering the engine less for that stroke, so ti runs leaner.
Years ago (notably in Honda's Shop Manuals for twins) Honda used the ambiguous translation phrase for the use of this screw that said, "For richness, turn screw in". It was this poor translation that seems to have started the confusion: in English this means, "If the engine is running rich, turn the screw inward". That adjustment reduces the amount of fuel/air mix being admitted, making it run leaner. This was an issue with the Honda Twins, as the vibration often made the screws slowly back out, causing richness and fouled sparkplugs that brought the bikes in for a tuneup. The CB350 twin was notorious for this.
How about the CB500/550s with the oldstyle carbs: 627B, 649A, 069A and 022A?
14
« on: June 01, 2023, 08:16:00 AM »
Soon I have to replace the LH switch unit (the wires through the handlebar type) by another one and I am not sure about the correct working order. Can any of you experienced mechanics tell - preferably in steps 1-n - how it is done correctly?
15
« on: May 27, 2023, 09:55:39 AM »
In the garage bike fell over on its LH side and there is some damage. The switch unit as a hole, 35200-341-600 is NA. The European CB500K2 shares this part with: CB750K6 FOUR AUSTRALIA CB750K6 FOUR ENGLAND CB750K6 FOUR EUROPEAN DIRECT SALES CB750K6 FOUR FRANCE CB750K6 FOUR GENERAL EXPORT KPH MPH CB750K6 FOUR GERMANY Option 1 is to buy a complete repro for € 123,57 at Honda4.NL. https://honda4parts.nl/product_info.php?products_id=2621 Quality unkown and it involves a lot of labour. Option two is to fit just another clutch handle. A friend has one for me. Now my model has that mini switch that prevents starting when bike is in gear unless clutch is pulled. I like to keep it that way. I've searched the garagefloor for eventual dropped parts and I found this little half moon. BTW, the black little thing in the same picture is possibly not from my bike (it probably was already there on the floor). My question is: what is this little half moon shaped part from and is it possibly supposed to be in between the miniswitch and the clutch lever and, if so, how should it be oriented? When I opt for the cheap option, there is still a new spot for the mirror to be found. Do you guys know of something I can fit around the steel of the handlebar which can accomodate my mirror. Not original, but I can live with that.
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