Post by: SPR on March 11, 2020, 09:18:28 AM
Just bought this 1978 CB550 which I'm guessing is a K3 ... won't be able to check till I get the bike which won't be for a week or so
Hopefully it will be a running restoration / improver as time and money allows
Apparently it will come to me serviced and checked front to back with any immediate work done and completed - we shall see :)
These are the sale pictures which I'm assuming the eagle eyed knowledgeable will be able to point out any obvious incorrect bits that I can change as and when
Thanks
Simon
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Post by: Bryanj on March 11, 2020, 09:25:42 AM
Make sure its starts nicely from cold and runs on all four as those PD carbs are an utter nightmare, plus ride it ever week.
Post by: SPR on March 11, 2020, 09:27:29 AM
Im guessing by the rear light its a US import.
Make sure its starts nicely from cold and runs on all four as those PD carbs are an utter nightmare, plus ride it ever week.
Yep an import but already registered etc ... bugger about the carbs !
Thanks for the info
Simon
Post by: SPR on March 11, 2020, 12:45:58 PM
Nice example.
Couple of things you could maybe ask them to fix.
Missing the left hand reflector off the headlight plus it's rubber mount.
Missing it's wing mirrors.
Seat looks to be a repro but looks a good one.
Missing the sticker off the idiot panel between the clocks, there are available on E-Bay.
Carbs can be substituted for the CB500/550 type carbs which are FAR superior. Means new rubber inlet mounts and airbox but well worth doing.
Master cylinder looks wrong, should be black but they fade in the sunlight so could be that, mounted too far sloped forward, they are punch marks on the bars which should line up with the MC split where it clamps IIRC.
Check too see if it still has it's toolkit.
Excellent - thank you ... I'll see if I can get them to sort any of the bits
Simon
Post by: Rob62 on March 11, 2020, 07:28:53 PM
Post by: SPR on March 11, 2020, 09:08:05 PM
Nice! I had one back in the 80’s.... looks like a sold bike. A bit of chrome trim round that seat would lift it a lot.. 8)
Yes - it does look a little bare without it
Post by: SPR on April 01, 2020, 05:26:10 PM
Finally got hold of the bike and overall it looks ok and usable .......
There are a few bits need doing immediately - some maybe beyond me :)
Choke cable is broken at the fitting
Oil leak - see last pic - any ideas welcome ..... it does seem to be the only place leaking any fluids
Running wise is a little rough - mainly at the higher rev band but wondering if it needs a couple runs / fresh fuel running through .... so will try that before more drastic action
Throttle seems "tight" so doesn't snap back when you let go - more investigation required .... no air leaks from carbs etc
RHS top silencer isn't the best with the baffle either missing or disintegrated
Bars seem wrong ...
So some work to clean it up and try and do what bits I can .... will update with progress
Thanks
Simon
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Post by: Bryanj on April 01, 2020, 08:58:49 PM
The blanking plug can be damaged if somebody has fitted an O ring chain as they are a bit wide.
Post by: SPR on April 01, 2020, 11:08:02 PM
Watch this space :)
Thanks
Simon
Post by: SPR on April 02, 2020, 08:34:02 AM
As this is an import is it correct for the front indicators to be on as driving type lights when running - also is the indicator buzzer a correct feature ?
Post by: Bryanj on April 02, 2020, 09:07:58 AM
Post by: SPR on April 02, 2020, 09:10:07 AM
Buzzer correct, front running lights not legal in UK so have to be disconnected. Orange/White and Light Blue/White wires
Brill thanks ..... now the bit where I show my level of expertise :) where do I find said wires to disconnect :-[
EDIT ... headlight bucket .... bloody ell shocked myself
Thanks
Simon
Post by: SPR on April 02, 2020, 06:46:37 PM
Couple of tips which could avoid some real heartache later.
Buy yourself some JIS screwdrivers, they'll pay for themselves in no time.
Remove the screws holding the idiot panel on when you get some JIS tools. Blob them with a drop of vaseline or grease on the threads and very carefully refit them, DO NOT overtighten these or you will split the plastic if it's not already split. Same goes for the switchgear screws, bit of grease etc now will avoid some real struggles later on.
The idiot panel decal is available on E-Bay, will look much better fitted.
Keep them coming
Yep - got a set of JIS screwdrivers and was sceptical before using them but they are a perfect fit !!
I hear you about the grease and will do that each time and have an idiot panel decal ready to go on
Thanks
Simon
Post by: Bryanj on April 02, 2020, 07:20:03 PM
Post by: SPR on April 02, 2020, 07:26:24 PM
Big tip, run the motor every week for a decent time or you will be finding out just how much of a pain PD carbs can be
I suspect I'm finding that already - still not revving freely through the range although better today in that it will stutter and then rev so hopefully more runs will help
I've added some STP cleaner to the fuel and ordered new plugs
Post by: SPR on April 02, 2020, 08:28:09 PM
Decal off E-Bay?
If so can you let me know how it fits and looks.
Will do - pics tomorrow
Post by: SPR on April 03, 2020, 12:47:35 PM
Decal off E-Bay?TBH it’s ok but too thin ... it’s foil type thickness which I realised too late and I would really have needed to sand the cover down smooth
If so can you let me know how it fits and looks.
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Some progress on the forks - 5 hours later and I’m happy as I didn’t want a mirror finish rather clean
Before
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After
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Post by: Bradders on April 03, 2020, 01:07:09 PM
Post by: SPR on April 03, 2020, 01:12:02 PM
Your forks look good SPR. What did you use to clean them up. Mine look like the before pictures.
Tried various approaches but the best was long strips of wet and dry 240 grit and then 400 / 600
Used a dremel with small hard polishing cone to start getting a finish then when I'd destroyed my supply went to autosol and fine grade wire wool
They aren't bad and will fit in with the rest of the bike when done as a "survivor" rather than a restoration as I intend to use it without worrying too much :)
Thanks
Simon
Post by: Nurse Julie on April 03, 2020, 01:48:31 PM
Post by: Bradders on April 03, 2020, 03:22:44 PM
Your forks look good SPR. What did you use to clean them up. Mine look like the before pictures.
Tried various approaches but the best was long strips of wet and dry 240 grit and then 400 / 600
Used a dremel with small hard polishing cone to start getting a finish then when I'd destroyed my supply went to autosol and fine grade wire wool
They aren't bad and will fit in with the rest of the bike when done as a "survivor" rather than a restoration as I intend to use it without worrying too much :)
Thanks
Simon
Thanks Simon will give it a try.
Post by: SPR on April 06, 2020, 12:50:39 PM
Tanks off and indeed as mentioned both throttle and choke were routed incorrectly.
Bars off and new choke cable fitted with the new bars - managed to reroute the throttle cables and it now snaps back as it should.
Mirrors fitted and everything back together.
David Silvers managed to not send instrument gasket so still waiting on those.
Do have one problem - got new spark plugs - DE7A - and plug spanner .... gapped new ones but am unable to remove old - they are a smaller size ?? I’m guessing 16mm.
Has anyone come across this before ? I think they are old Champion plugs.
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Thanks
Simon
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Post by: Bryanj on April 06, 2020, 01:58:10 PM
Post by: SPR on April 06, 2020, 02:11:25 PM
If they are old Champion plugs they'll most likely be imperial size, so not metric. Try and find a suitable long reach socket to get them out. Be careful as they may have been in there a long time, be especially careful with cylinder 3 as it has the tacho drive right above it and breaking that will be a major problem as they are very hard to find these days.
Couple of more things to think about.
If you intend to keep the bike think about these.
At some point changing the carbs to the CB500/550F type. Much more reliable and a LOT less problematic than the PD carbs currently fitted.
Consider fitting a second disc to the front, looks more balanced and gives better braking. It would also mean replacing the tired looking master cylinder which TBH kinda spoils the look of the bike ATM.
As you can see areas like the inner cups of the tacho/speedo rust and you can't see it happening. Especially true of the inner parts of the fork ears and underneath the rear mudguard to name just a few, protect these areas with some sort of rust proofing. I use Zinc paint and it works just great, other solutions are available like underseal for instance. The price of replacement parts is going higher and higher each year and some are very hard to source now so try and protect what you've got is a good idea.
The colour of the header pipes indicate a ignition problem at some point, could be mixture is too weak or timing is wrong. Check timing etc. Don't assume because the dealer said it had been done that they actually knew what they were doing, won't cost anything and will give you some idea of working on the bike for the future.
All good points ... I'm using ACF50 and Gibbs at the moment for the suspect areas
Good point about the carbs and if I can't get it running well may have to look at swopping but TBH money is an issue at the moment - will look at checking the timing to see if its withing my skillset :)
Post by: SPR on April 06, 2020, 02:12:41 PM
Champion plugs had the same size hex if i remember right
Just double checked and it seems to def look like champion printed but they are much smaller hex size ... will source some long thin wall sockets
Post by: SPR on April 10, 2020, 08:48:07 AM
Plugs changed - the ones that came out were 16mm
Clocks back in with new gaskets / front top brake pipe replaced.
40 years of crud removed from front casing and sides polished.
Centre stand powder coated / side stand should be done today
Quick question - can the float bowls be removed and cleaned whilst the carbs are in place ? My expertise doesn’t cover removing the bank tbh
Thanks Simon
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Post by: Bryanj on April 10, 2020, 08:59:14 AM
Post by: SPR on April 10, 2020, 09:00:32 AM
As to carb bowls the answer is sometimes but only if you have small hands and the screws are not tight. I used a small seperat bit and spanner but it took a looooong time
Thanks - might give that a miss then :) will concentrate on the frame touch ups
Post by: Nurse Julie on April 10, 2020, 10:08:38 AM
Post by: SPR on April 10, 2020, 10:13:39 AM
She's looking good Simon. As to the carbs, I have very, very small hands and I still find it almost impossible to take the float bowls off and get them back on with the carbs in situ. I can get the 2 outside float bowls off. The two middle bowls are just bloody awkward. Even if you do manage to get the bowls off, removing and replacing the jets is very time consuming and in the long run, it's easier to remove the carbs entirely to work on them.
Thanks Julie
I think its a back burner job if the running doesn't improve - plenty more to be doing ....... looks wise its a 6 footer but will be nice to use hopefully
Thanks
Simon
Post by: SPR on April 10, 2020, 12:42:58 PM
Stand and side stand cost £20 in total for blast and powder coat in semi gloss
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Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on April 10, 2020, 12:43:58 PM
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Post by: SPR on April 10, 2020, 12:48:21 PM
I’ll bet you were careful putting that spring on!I learnt from the main stand - stretched the spring with pennies before I took it off so a piece of cake :)
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Post by: SPR on April 10, 2020, 03:52:53 PM
1 Would this be a reason for the poor running at higher revs or is that me grasping !!
2 More importantly is head gasket renewal within the realms of novice ??
EDIT after researching .... No to both :(
Thanks
Simon
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Post by: SPR on April 11, 2020, 10:14:43 AM
This higher priced kit from David Silvers ....... any thoughts
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB550K-1978-USA/part_356535/
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Do I also need the 6 x 91318-300-013 hat bits ?
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/by-part-number/partnumber_91318300013/
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Any other seals that are needed ?
Thanks
Simon
Post by: Nurse Julie on April 11, 2020, 10:32:22 AM
Post by: SPR on April 11, 2020, 10:33:56 AM
Yes Simon, you need the hat bits (pucks or Pontefract cakes as they are know as.)
Thanks - I'll get both ordered
What is the best sealant to use for the hat bits ?
Then just need to find someone local :)
Thanks
Simon
Post by: Nurse Julie on April 11, 2020, 10:44:32 AM
A light smear of Honda Bond on the pucks. Daunting I know but, why don't you do the work yourself?. Its a way of learning and there are all the resources you need on the forum in the way of advice and encouragementYes Simon, you need the hat bits (pucks or Pontefract cakes as they are know as.)
Thanks - I'll get both ordered
What is the best sealant to use for the hat bits ?
Then just need to find someone local :)
Thanks
Simon
Post by: SPR on April 11, 2020, 10:49:07 AM
A light smear of Honda Bond on the pucks. Daunting I know but, why don't you do the work yourself?. Its a way of learning and there are all the resources you need on the forum in the way of advice and encouragement
Thanks ... I'll mull over having a bash but don't want to make things worse !!
Post by: Bryanj on April 11, 2020, 12:08:12 PM
Post by: SPR on April 11, 2020, 12:27:33 PM
All you need to do the job is a 3/8 drive socket set with 6 sided sockets and the manual downloadable from Alladins cave. Its the 500 manual with supplements for the differences on 550, for what you are doing no differences
Thanks Bryan
I've been reading the manual ... rather daunting in my case - I'm sure those with knowledge wouldn't bat an eye :)
Cheers
Simon
Post by: Bryanj on April 11, 2020, 01:19:26 PM
Post by: SPR on April 11, 2020, 01:22:46 PM
The Honda manual is writen assuming you have a good basic knowledge, if unsure ask and i/we will explain it better-----maybe!!
I've ordered the bits and also picked up 4 genuine Honda carb gasket kits cheap ... so may start with the carbs first !!
Post by: Bryanj on April 11, 2020, 02:41:49 PM
Post by: SPR on April 11, 2020, 03:54:22 PM
First thinhg with carbs is on the mixture scres should be a spring, tiny washer and very tiny O ring that all need to be there but get easily lost. O ring also gets stuck in the "hole" and needs to be removed.Thanks Bryan
That is the same as the Harley ... I’ve read that 1 1/4 turns for the mixture ?
Cheers
Simon
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Post by: Bryanj on April 11, 2020, 04:08:18 PM
Post by: SPR on April 12, 2020, 11:45:13 AM
Got the carbs off without much trouble but did notice that the two middle rubbers to the air box had no clamps
The carbs look to me that they have been cleaned ?
I’ve checked all main jets and all are clear and clean
I did find that the mixture screws had all been set to just less than one turn - could this have been the problem of not wanting to rev easily above 3500 rpm ?
I’ve noticed that one float ( 2nd from left ) has no springiness to it - all the others you can gently tap and they go down and up ?
What do I need to do to this float please ?
All the pics are as. I’ve found it - nothing cleaned inside or out
Thanks
Simon
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Post by: Nurse Julie on April 12, 2020, 11:53:56 AM
Post by: hairygit on April 12, 2020, 11:58:45 AM
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Post by: SPR on April 12, 2020, 11:59:54 AM
Sound like you need a new float needle for the one that isn't springing correctly.
I was worried it may be that - I've removed pin / float black thing and the needle is clean and springing properly
So I've slightly adjusted the metal tang bit that touches it and after a little trial and error it now moves and springs like the other three
Post by: SPR on April 12, 2020, 12:00:39 PM
Also, the pilot jets could have been incorrectly adjusted because of the air leaks where the clamps were missing. The clamps need to ALL be fitted and tight, otherwise random air leaks will mess with the mixture and you will never get it running smoothly and reliably.
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I was wondering that ...... best get some ordered
Thanks
Simon
Post by: taysidedragon on April 12, 2020, 12:32:29 PM
Sound like you need a new float needle for the one that isn't springing correctly.
I was worried it may be that - I've removed pin / float black thing and the needle is clean and springing properly
So I've slightly adjusted the metal tang bit that touches it and after a little trial and error it now moves and springs like the other three
You probably need to check the float level on all 4 to make sure they're right.
Post by: SPR on April 12, 2020, 12:33:42 PM
Sound like you need a new float needle for the one that isn't springing correctly.
I was worried it may be that - I've removed pin / float black thing and the needle is clean and springing properly
So I've slightly adjusted the metal tang bit that touches it and after a little trial and error it now moves and springs like the other three
You probably need to check the float level on all 4 to make sure they're right.
Thanks
I know I've read it in a thread somewhere on here so will have a search
Simon
Post by: Bryanj on April 12, 2020, 01:42:30 PM
Post by: SPR on April 12, 2020, 02:57:54 PM
Look in the 550K3 supplement and be careful on the modle as there are 2 different float heights
Yep double checked
Bit of a result .... put it all back together after having to heat the rock hard rubbers !!
Also replaced the air filter with a new one as the one in it looked original
Ran like a rocket :)
So not really sure which bit cured it but wonder if the float that was wrong was starving one of the cylinders ? or the mixture was so weak
Anyway now to sort the head gasket and progress on the other bits ... waiting on parts for a few days
Thanks for the help
Simon
Post by: Bryanj on April 12, 2020, 03:16:03 PM
Seriously you tacked one of the worst jobs so all good from here
Post by: SPR on April 15, 2020, 01:07:05 PM
Frame tidy up under the seat and new Continentals front and back
Cheers
Simon
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Post by: SPR on April 20, 2020, 05:14:33 PM
I'm just changing the gaskets with genuine ones and changed the rubber washer with the new one in the kit .....
It seems slightly smaller than the old ones coming out and does mean that when setting the screw the closed screwed in starting point is further in than it was before
Will this matter ? Is it that the old ones have squashed and widened / swollen ?
Bad pic shows two old ones top and new one below
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Thanks
Simon
Post by: Bryanj on April 20, 2020, 06:42:55 PM
Post by: SPR on April 20, 2020, 06:55:00 PM
Thats just deformed in use mate, make sure the tiny washers gonbetween the spring and O ring
Brilliant - thanks again
Yep got needle / spring / washer / o ring then screwed in ....
So it won't matter that the screw goes in further to a stop now ... before then winding out
Cheers
Simon
Post by: SPR on April 21, 2020, 09:51:26 AM
Went to fit the new carb rubbers and had a devil of a job as there didn't seem enough room to get the air box ones on.
Yep ... I just blindly went off the parts download and ordered 16211-323-000 which are lonnger than the ones on so I presume they are the earlier setup
Checked on CMSNL and seems the correct part is 16211-404-000
Damn - expensive lesson learnt
Can't reuturn these as theve been opened etc - so anyone needing a genuine set let me know
Cheers
Simon
Post by: Nurse Julie on April 21, 2020, 10:12:48 AM
Post by: SPR on April 21, 2020, 11:08:02 AM
16211-323-000 are for a 500K....someone will buy them off you I'm sure Simon.
Bloody ell ....... doubly wrong :)
Post by: SPR on April 24, 2020, 10:06:19 AM
Cleaned all the underside of the mudguard and then applied Hydrate 80 before a few coats of zinc galvanising spray
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Also picked up an as new original seat - the one on it is a plastic bottomed replacement
This one was a good price and using my USA forwarding service meant I can get it pretty easily
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Also good news on the head gasket leak ... seems that there isn’t one after some spirited essential trips - what I did find was a spurious extra spark plug washer was wedged stopping #1 plug seating properly ... so hopefully this was where the oil was coming from - will monitor
Cheers
Simon
Post by: kevski on April 24, 2020, 11:02:00 AM
Post by: SPR on April 24, 2020, 11:06:57 AM
Just read the whole of this thread and i am enjoying it, K3's are the best of the bunch, i had the 500k3 Italian import, never had carb problems, put second disc on it, loved it and would like it back, will keep watching this thread, you are doing a good job.
Cheers - it is all very basic TBH but I'm learning as I go along :)
Post by: SPR on April 26, 2020, 12:09:52 PM
So after seeing the air filter condition of “my totally gone through” purchase I decided to change oil and filter just in case
The state of the oil and filter has me perhaps a little cynical if one or both were changed.
All done now and probably all in the mind but it seems a little quieter :)
Thanks
Simon
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Post by: Bryanj on April 26, 2020, 12:34:47 PM
Post by: SPR on April 26, 2020, 12:36:45 PM
Was the steel washer in the filter between spring and rubber seal?
Yep
Post by: Bryanj on April 26, 2020, 02:11:11 PM
Post by: SPR on April 26, 2020, 02:30:10 PM
Unusal but good
I suspect like the air filter it had sat undisturbed for decades !
Post by: SPR on April 30, 2020, 10:42:56 AM
The disk isn't warped - any ideas what to check when I get round to re assembly
Pic isn't great but you can see where it has been catching
Cheers
Simon
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Post by: hairygit on April 30, 2020, 10:46:11 AM
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Post by: SPR on April 30, 2020, 10:56:24 AM
Condition of wheel bearings, and check the tube nut is mounted the correct way on the wheel spindle.
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Thanks - I know I'm showing my ignorance - but could you explain "tube nut"
Simon
Post by: hairygit on April 30, 2020, 11:13:45 AM
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Post by: SPR on April 30, 2020, 11:15:00 AM
On the front wheel spindle there is a long but/tube, if you need to replace the bearings it has to be removed to get the spindle out. It is entirely possible that a previous owner has refitted the tube nut the wrong way, which moves the entire wheel assembly slightly to the left (from sitting on the bike in the normal riding position) allowing a very slight contact between the disc and fork leg.
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Thanks - I'll check on reassembly if it is touching and then check what you have said
Cheers
Simon
Post by: SPR on April 30, 2020, 11:25:47 AM
On the front wheel spindle there is a long but/tube, if you need to replace the bearings it has to be removed to get the spindle out. It is entirely possible that a previous owner has refitted the tube nut the wrong way, which moves the entire wheel assembly slightly to the left (from sitting on the bike in the normal riding position) allowing a very slight contact between the disc and fork leg.
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Could you possibly say which bit I'm looking for on here ... I know I know ::)
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Post by: SPR on April 30, 2020, 11:42:47 AM
No 18.
Thank You
Post by: SPR on April 30, 2020, 11:46:58 AM
No 18.My #18 is on the other side ?
I presume that could be the issue ... is it easy to swop ?
Stupid question - it wouldn’t have been done when tyres were changed ?
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Post by: hairygit on April 30, 2020, 11:51:48 AM
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Post by: SPR on April 30, 2020, 12:00:08 PM
Changed over ....
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Post by: SPR on April 30, 2020, 03:02:51 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200430/19a47aa9f32763124b9c86c13212fabc.jpg)
Post by: Bryanj on April 30, 2020, 05:07:47 PM
As to the rub mark if you mean on that black plastic bit(cant see anything on the alloy, but i am geriatric) it frequently gets the bracket bent or twisted.
Post by: SPR on April 30, 2020, 05:55:24 PM
Got any atf? Even ordinary 10w40 will do at a pinch. Majour diff with fork oil is it dont "froth"
As to the rub mark if you mean on that black plastic bit(cant see anything on the alloy, but i am geriatric) it frequently gets the bracket bent or twisted.
the only oil I have is 15w40 diesel qx oil as used by a few on here for the engine
It was a wearing of the actual alloy leg - the spindle was the wrong way round and I've a feeling that the tyre change man altered it
Post by: SPR on April 30, 2020, 07:22:34 PM
So far no leaks !!!
A good day and as usual with help from you lot I've managed something else :)
Cheers
Simon
Post by: Nurse Julie on April 30, 2020, 07:40:30 PM
Post by: SPR on April 30, 2020, 08:35:57 PM
You're doing very well Simon.
We'll reserve that till after I've been out on it :)
Post by: SPR on May 01, 2020, 01:42:26 PM
The front brake isn't moving freely on the arm that is supposed to swivel when the brake is applied ...... causing the brake to drag ... I can free it again moving the arm back with a screwdriver but it again starts to bind
I did take this all apart and cleaned the spindle bit and applied a small amount of red grease - was this wrong ?
Any ideas welcome
Cheers
Simon
Post by: Bryanj on May 01, 2020, 02:05:13 PM
BIG HINT
BEFORE attempting to undo the bleed nipple warm the alloy with one of the plumbers torches on dispoable canister or some such then use an 8mm deep socket with a tee bar so you get an even turning force. The bleeders snap off easily.
Also if you do need to get piston out pump the piston out with master BEFORE disconecting pipe.
Post by: SPR on May 01, 2020, 02:06:49 PM
No it was right but it might be the piston in the caliper rather than the bracket. Undo the two bolts holding the caliper halves and see if the arm pivots free then.
BIG HINT
BEFORE attempting to undo the bleed nipple warm the alloy with one of the plumbers torches on dispoable canister or some such then use an 8mm deep socket with a tee bar so you get an even turning force. The bleeders snap off easily.
Also if you do need to get piston out pump the piston out with master BEFORE disconecting pipe.
On it :)
Many thanks again
Post by: Bryanj on May 01, 2020, 03:33:03 PM
Post by: SPR on May 02, 2020, 10:19:14 AM
Caliper off and taken apart - problem diagnosed and new piston and seal ordered together with new pads !
Caliper repainted and in the oven to cure :)
Hopefully the new bits will be here soon
Thanks
Simon
Post by: SPR on May 06, 2020, 03:18:28 PM
Brake bits arrived and seat / horn in 3 days from the USA !!
Seat is like new !!
Spanner’s at the ready :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200506/8348e4f02eafe521ea50870df5e554be.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200506/2af0a59d74021dced478c3ec92e075db.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200506/de826a5f9891e9c7bc59c36031c6e5a8.jpg)
Post by: mickwinf on May 06, 2020, 03:42:48 PM
Post by: SPR on May 06, 2020, 04:22:29 PM
thats a nice looking seat!It is :)
All done and all thanks to Bryan for his great instructions !
Front brake works :)
Seat on and decent horn to get rid of the modern one
Cheers
Simon
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200506/afa3729f0f8ef41d01fe47ed7e9461b7.jpg)
Post by: SPR on May 18, 2020, 09:42:20 AM
Old ones off - collars in oven cooking :)
I’ve new genuine crush washers to fit - should I be using sealant as well like Honda Bond or should this not be required ?
Thanks
Simon
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200518/ec1f749ee98db05159d5c870b54998a1.jpg)
Post by: Nurse Julie on May 18, 2020, 10:05:57 AM
Post by: SPR on May 18, 2020, 10:07:50 AM
Only the crush washers required.
Excellent !
Just waiting now !!
Post by: SPR on May 18, 2020, 02:22:30 PM
I'm worried that Simon is one of those dudes in a full white suit, that looks like a quarantine tent ;D ;D ;D ;DHow did you know !!!
You think the next room is full of Covid patients ????
It’s a classic car tent from Hamilton’s - has fans and zips up to provide a rigid bubble so no condensation in winter
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on May 18, 2020, 02:44:59 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: SPR on May 18, 2020, 02:50:34 PM
Do you have a classic car to put in it?No - I’ve just got rid of two Harley’s which filled it but it is great to be able to work on dry bikes during winter
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The garage seems susceptible to condensation which kills Harley’s very quickly :) this has totally gone with this tent.
Post by: SPR on May 18, 2020, 05:35:37 PM
Exhausts all fitted and must say the quality is very good
Old exhausts are available if anyone wants a set - one has been repaired previously and I think two are minus baffles .. some other pin holes in the others - £75 collected
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200518/504cbbd4fc4f943c3cad3407af563bbc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200518/0f644015db26fd9606a28e7cce95b3ec.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200518/9a21abe63af9b6082cb9c8977d3e770e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200518/108fad4d749d1ab5c1c5437cb67aefb5.jpg)
The old exhausts
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200518/148ad0be9b1f6a3edcea91c780f0dde7.jpg)
Post by: woody928 on May 19, 2020, 11:35:53 PM
Really good to see you getting stuck in with all of the repairs and restoration, it looks like you're doing an amazing job at bringing the bike back to its former glory. I look forward to seeing what you do next, a lot of these jobs are going to be providing me with headaches soon enough!
Post by: SPR on May 20, 2020, 12:17:05 AM
I've just read through this whole thread having just picked up my own 1978 550 last night.Cheers
Really good to see you getting stuck in with all of the repairs and restoration, it looks like you're doing an amazing job at bringing the bike back to its former glory. I look forward to seeing what you do next, a lot of these jobs are going to be providing me with headaches soon enough!
If I can do it anyone can - especially with the help available on here !!
It really needs the tank painting
Post by: SPR on May 30, 2020, 09:49:35 AM
Everything checked and double checked
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/bbfdfb3671263284ac985e0241ea6ead.jpg)
I haven’t received the auxiliary tank so decided to have a go with what the floats hold - more to be a practice run
The carbs were all different - and quite up and down from #2
I was surprised how little you move the adjustment screw to make a big difference - explains I suppose why they can all look set ok but still be unbalanced.
The mercury gauge kindly donated by Ken worked great - it seemed most stable at around 2k revs.
So .... I learnt that I need the extra time as it is quite fiddly so will be having a second attempt when the tank arrives. I have got them better but not good enough.
It shows that a novice can do these and other jobs with help and guidance :)
The bike does seem to idle much smoother ... will take it for a blast to see if there is a noticeable difference
Cheers
Simon
Post by: K2-K6 on May 30, 2020, 10:50:35 AM
You picked up on the sensitivity of the balance adjustment too, that's because (counter to most popular views) balancing the slide height is not for improving idle running smoothness, idle balance being a side effect. Ultimately Honda write in their manuals the fine tuning method of adjusting the idle screws AFTER slide synchronisation to bring low speed combustion parity on a cylinder by cylinder basis. It's this routine that is the "icing on the cake" of smooth tickover running.
Post by: SPR on May 31, 2020, 01:37:07 PM
The aux tank arrived so connected everything up again with the tank in place to give me longer to get the carbs balanced
I just can't believe how fiddly these are to get close ... add to that an idle screw that is so sensitive .... I struggled to be honest
Eventually I think I've got them pretty much within one mark of each other on the gauge and idling at 1100 rpm
Are the earlier carbs this bad - or is that why people tend to change them ?
Cheers
Simon
Post by: K2-K6 on May 31, 2020, 05:01:00 PM
Then use the idle screws to refine the combustion of each cylinder at tickover, you don't need the gauges fitted for this but use rev counter to observe the effects each cylinder has.
Do you want a photo of Honda manual that describes this element?
Post by: SPR on May 31, 2020, 05:10:21 PM
To clarify sequencing, vacuum balance to within 1.6 inch Hg ( 40 mm) then leave the vacuum adjustment alone. In other words slides are in spec of Honda manual.
Then use the idle screws to refine the combustion of each cylinder at tickover, you don't need the gauges fitted for this but use rev counter to observe the effects each cylinder has.
Do you want a photo of Honda manual that describes this element?
I've only one large idle screw ... are you referring to what I call the mixture screw ? I've been tweaking these slightly to get the best overall running
Post by: Bryanj on May 31, 2020, 05:27:41 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on May 31, 2020, 05:28:20 PM
The big, single screw that sets the engine's speed at tick over and lifts all carbs together is not the one I mean for idle mixture adjustment.
The mixture screws are the ones in the routine, after getting slides to parity with vac gauges, these refine each cylinder to effectively get each one running with the same combustion energy to smooth out crank speed fluctuations. This to make them run like a swiss watch.
Post by: SPR on May 31, 2020, 05:55:22 PM
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on May 31, 2020, 06:33:31 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: SPR on May 31, 2020, 07:10:00 PM
Have you ever heard one running like a Swiss watch?Sadly not for nearly 40 years
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hopefully I can keep on with this and get a little closer :)
Post by: K2-K6 on May 31, 2020, 07:28:09 PM
Have you ever heard one running like a Swiss watch?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok, I'll give you that one Steve. Maybe more like a contemporary from the same nation and era.
[attachimg=1]
How about a Seiko 6139 movement from early seventies.
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on May 31, 2020, 07:32:43 PM
Compared to what else was around at the time, they did run like Swiss watches.
I actually have a Swiss watch.
But it’s electric
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/5e5ee93aa8dcc205467262c5ac9f2bec.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: SPR on June 01, 2020, 02:35:51 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oSFa-YgHDM
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on June 01, 2020, 03:27:06 PM
Well touch wood it seems to be running very well ... nice bimble out round Bakewell / Matlock and all was good in the world :)Simon, when all restrictions are lifted call in next time you are in Bakewell and show us your good work. Our shop is still closed but when open again it will be good to see the shiney steed!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oSFa-YgHDM
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on June 01, 2020, 03:32:56 PM
Post by: SPR on June 01, 2020, 04:57:38 PM
Well touch wood it seems to be running very well ... nice bimble out round Bakewell / Matlock and all was good in the world :)Simon, when all restrictions are lifted call in next time you are in Bakewell and show us your good work. Our shop is still closed but when open again it will be good to see the shiney steed!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oSFa-YgHDM
I certainly will !!
Post by: Bryanj on June 01, 2020, 04:59:18 PM
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on June 01, 2020, 05:14:36 PM
Better not let my wife rad this, her fabric stash is nearly as big as my bike stash!!!Yes Bryan you definitely must show her!! -:P Thinking about it I have fabric and bike stash!! Wish I had the fabric value in bikes though...
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on June 01, 2020, 07:09:59 PM
That's the baby Ken! Yes I often look out at tastey bikes parked outside .Our shop is called Fabric and Furnishing Solutions. Last but one shop on the right if you take the A6 south towards Matlock.
Well bugger me, I stopped in Bakewell the last time I was there and parked outside the Pharmacy which if I'm right is opposite your shop, turned the bike round there as I fancied a meal at the Castle Inn round the corner, had a few meals at that pub and they've all been really good. It was last year and I'd have been on a red/white CB1300 like my avatar, you may have heard it and looked out of the window. There's a petrol station just up the road on the same side as you and a few years ago I accidentally gave him a forged tenner, I had it in my wallet as someone had passed it onto me when I was working on the buses and I'd pulled it out without looking, still feel a little ashamed of that even now. Some really good roads around you, envy you such scenery and the roads. I don't tend to use the A6 a lot even though it runs right through our town, I turn off just before Buxton and run through Sparrowpit, Stoney Middleton and Baslow and down the A619 into Bakewell. Far too many cameras on the A6 and the A515 including Police helicopters.
Yes fab countryside and even "fabber" a few weeks ago with nobody about. You can really rip on that road from Sparrowpit. Lots of plods about for good reason on the A6 etc., as some of our 2 wheeled brethren (and cars) are idiots . Frightening what you see sometimes.
I'll nip down to the garage and have a chat about dodgy notes and characters!! :P
Anyway kettle always on as we say on this site!
Post by: SPR on June 11, 2020, 03:11:40 PM
The fork ears were rusty but dent free so I either lived without the bike whilst having them chromed or hunted for another set
Found a dent free pair for £13
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200611/f4ee05eecc133751fd8bda8463f0f4fa.jpg)
Great .... off to the chromers who found some pin holes when prepping ....
I asked the question - can they be repaired and heard nothing till a message they were ready to ship
Arrived and TBH more attention to detail was needed to the repair bits and if I were going for a full resto I’d be disappointed !!
However they are on and most of the poor finish is to the side / rear so I’ll live with them
I’ve covered the others with wax oil to keep as spares as these type do seem rare
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200611/65c11d9a3ebb1ffd5a6d783ea50efcfc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200611/cd723266973d491a39985a5bd9eb9b36.jpg)
Post by: SPR on June 11, 2020, 10:05:41 PM
Being super critical here but reverse the upper yoke pinch bolts, they are meant to have the nut on the bottom so if for any reason the nut works loose you don't loose both nut and bolt.Thanks for the spot on the bolt - I’ll get it swapped tomorrow
I've got to admit I was sort of cursing you when i spotted you'd got them for £13. The K3 and the F2 550s use a lot of the same parts, speedo, tacho for instance. They can also use the same fork ears and I've been looking for a half decent set of fork ears for an F2 for a good while, the top down pic fooled me at first as I'd forgotten the K3 uses those big indicators and the ears have the stems already welded to them, the F2 doesn't so they wouldn't have fitted mine anyway and may even be the reason I didn't go after them.
I'm having my fork ears rechromed now but for £13 those are a nice find.
Really starting to look the part now, big improvement on how you bought it.
Interesting on the tacho as mine isn’t brilliant so will start looking
It is getting there - just waiting for decals from Piki to get the tank sorted so slightly annoyed with the chrome work - live and learn
Simon
Post by: SPR on June 12, 2020, 07:52:07 AM
I may have a tacho if your looking, they were blue faced on the 550F2 and 550K3. I’ll see what condition they are in, do have a NOS one but they ain’t cheap.
Thanks
Post by: SPR on June 13, 2020, 02:58:13 PM
Also it has the ND on the bottom whereas the speedo has the Nippon Seiki Japan
The number on the back isn't fully legible but again doesn't resemble the part number for the year
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Further confusion is that the ones I've seen supposedly correct for the year have slightly different red line markings
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
Post by: SPR on June 13, 2020, 09:53:10 PM
The one in the box is up for £238 which may be a little rich for me - but then again I suspect having a suitable one restored isn’t going to be cheap
Decisions decisions
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on June 13, 2020, 11:08:16 PM
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on June 14, 2020, 06:52:00 AM
He did my K0 clocks.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: SPR on June 14, 2020, 07:32:43 AM
True that Tim, but you need the correct one to start with and that ain't the right one, almost certain to be a 750 tacho.
I was pretty sure I had some second hand tachos lying around, found a decent speedo but no tachos as yet.
I'd be willing to part with the NOS one for what I paid for it, £175, I can then get my old one restored by Kent, I thought Kent was in South Africa BTW, wasn't there someone in the UK doing them? Last time I sent a package to SA it went missing for months.
If you need pics let me know.
I'll take you up on your offer :) and have sent you a message
Cheers
Simon
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on June 14, 2020, 04:27:41 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Nurse Julie on June 14, 2020, 04:44:38 PM
Thats Kevin Ken, TTR400Peter Horton (Kent400) is in the UK
He did my K0 clocks.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Fairly sure there's a Kent someone on the site in South Africa, he has his own website selling 400 bits, wonder who it is now. He engraved my CB1300 ignition cover for me with an old style Honda wing, really nice bloke.
Post by: SPR on June 15, 2020, 04:12:16 PM
Replacement exhaust arrived from CMSNL and after carefully checking it is now fitted and the old one available for offers ;)
Post by: SPR on June 21, 2020, 08:40:15 AM
Big thanks to Ken Oddjob for coming over yesterday with the NOS tacho - really does make a difference.
Also he patiently answered my rather basic questions and pointed out I’d got a loose tappet - checked my points were decent and had a visual of the bike to see if anything jumped out that was wrong ....
Never met more helpful people than on this forum !!
Valves done and adjusted again - let’s hope I’ve cracked it this time :)
Also top yoke bolts swapped to correct way
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200621/d0e2d960eaedccbfa78d40fba26099d2.jpg)
Post by: Bryanj on June 21, 2020, 08:45:52 AM
Post by: SPR on June 21, 2020, 08:50:20 AM
Careful with the tappet, i chased a loose tappet for a few hours till i nipped up the exhaust gaskets!!
Yep - that is what Ken said so checked they were all tight first ...
The problem I have is my ear didn't pick anything up :) so may not know if I was successful till someone more knowledgeable has a listen again
Simon
Post by: SPR on June 21, 2020, 09:20:53 AM
Did you find any out of adjustment?
Really tidy bike that Simon, looked very nice indeed.
Best bet for making sure the exhaust gaskets seal properly is too loosen off the rear bolt so the back end can float a little and then tighten the front nuts up, you can twist the exhaust out of shape tightening the back bolt up first especially if you've got the hanger positioning wrong which is quite easy to do on the 500, not so sure on the 550K3 can't remember how they fitted now. Try loosening all the nuts/bolts a little and doing the fronts up first.
I think 2/3 were a fraction loose so did them as you said after bending the feeler gauge so the end was perfectly flat when adjusting.
Yep slackened the brackets slightly before nipping up the bolts - a couple did nip up a full turn - I suspect I'm over cautious when doing them up
Post by: SPR on June 21, 2020, 09:37:28 AM
Maybe a job when you've got the head off?
Ha ha ... good joke :)
Post by: SPR on June 29, 2020, 01:11:00 PM
So was checking poor cold starting and found choke mech spring bit was sticking and not moving butterfly’s
Carbs off and found that spring plate was twisted - straightened and all ok
Thought whilst carbs off would remove bowls and check float heights etc again
Now - next is going to sound stupid ... I suddenly noticed the slow jets are different sizes ? Two outer ones are visually bigger than the inner ?
Is it me going mad or are they wrong ? Tried to pull them out but failed so any help would be appreciated
I’ve attached pics to hopefully show the problem
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200629/7ddab0c8bc7442530576821e1d0adb25.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200629/cb97dabc48c087c516ca1163934f8748.jpg)
Post by: SPR on June 29, 2020, 01:17:21 PM
So I can only assume these have been replaced incorrectly when the bike was done front to back inc the carbs cleaned etc ::)
Has anyone got 2 x 42 slow jets or point me to where I can get some from
I'm also assuming this won't have helped me try to get the bike idling and starting easily ... it does however run great :)
Post by: Bryanj on June 29, 2020, 01:59:47 PM
Post by: SPR on June 29, 2020, 02:08:29 PM
Only place i know does the jets is siriusconic in canada.
Brilliant thanks - ordered a set of #42
Post by: SPR on June 29, 2020, 04:12:33 PM
Whilst you've got the carbs like that I'd suggest carefully removing the air (mixture) screws, screw them down first so they LIGHTLY touch down, count the turns it takes do this so you know where to put them back so they are in the same place. Then remove and inspect, check to see if the o-rings are ok and the springs in place along with the tiny washer, most importantly check the condition of the tip, is it intact, do they all look the same, people tend to ground them too hard and the tip breaks off inside the carb, might as well check now whilst it's easy to do. Should be screw, spring, washer, o-ring. Look down the holes to see if any have got stuck down there if they come out with some missing.
Thanks Ken ... just had them off and double checked what you said - I'd previously changed o rings but checked everything again and all looks good
Post by: SPR on June 29, 2020, 04:16:35 PM
Good news. If you go to a big Asda they sell tins of compressed air (if you haven't got a compressor), give all the galleries a good squirting, I turn the can upside down so it comes out as liquid oxygen, you can actually see if come out then, compare each carb with the next so you know where it should be escaping, if it changes you have a blockage.
Excellent !! thanks - on it
Post by: SPR on June 29, 2020, 04:21:29 PM
They are stocked where the mobile phone accessories are Simon.
Ha ha - I would have been searching for hours !!
Post by: SPR on June 29, 2020, 04:41:05 PM
It's called Fellowes Air Duster BTW.
Thanks again
Post by: SPR on July 04, 2020, 05:32:27 PM
All assembled and refitted and fingers crossed it looks like no overflow / petrol leaks and only one air leak which was me not tightening up a clip
Used the aux tank as the proper one is at the painters and it started immediately which I suspect is a combination of the choke now actually not sticking and working and jets all the same size
Thanks everyone for the help again !!
[attachimg=1]
Post by: SPR on July 21, 2020, 01:42:51 PM
Still can’t road test as the tank isn’t back but using aux tank it started first press after about 4/5 days not running
Seems to rev freer but that maybe imagination :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200721/ba93c29540528e045b460a06cf2442b6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200721/23a3b86e0b91bba1786dba7b3a9ffdf3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200721/a57958839846a1edfc4c3072814e69b4.jpg)
Post by: SPR on July 21, 2020, 02:16:14 PM
That's odd, Mark said the new version took it's power from the look AFTER the ignition switch so the box was dead when the keys removed. That's permanently live by the look of it.
Any customs charges Simon? Post Office usual £8 robbery?
This may be a dim reply .... it gets power from where the coils black / white wire joins the loom ?
No customs / delivery charges
Post by: SPR on July 21, 2020, 02:22:30 PM
So there's an additional live feed from where you've connected it to the battery direct? and it's switched via the black/white near the coils, can't read the instructions as they are upside down so I don't know exactly how it's wired in, I was just going off Marks wiring diagram he sent me. He said he'd altered it so it switched on/off with the ignition, which is why I queried the battery feed.
No direct feed to the battery - that is my trickle charger connection
Post by: SPR on July 21, 2020, 02:26:53 PM
Oh so that black wire coming out of the box isn't connected to that connection, it looks like it is, I presume that's the wire going up to the coils to connect to the black/white wires there?
Yep - straight to the coils
Post by: SPR on July 21, 2020, 02:28:48 PM
Sorry Simon, just the angle you took the pic at, looked like it went straight to the battery.
Hey - worth asking as you never know with me :)
Post by: SPR on July 21, 2020, 02:33:33 PM
Is there a connector fitted to the end of the green wire? if so what type, I'm making up a new points wire with the white braided sheath and I was wondering if I could fit the green wire down it when I get round to doing it. I'm a bit of a neatness freak.
It is a little flat round one with a hole in it ... just big enough for the condenser retaining screw to fit through .... so no bigger than the washer on that screw
Post by: SPR on July 27, 2020, 11:53:07 AM
Tank back from painters and it really does lift the whole look of the bike
Now just need it to stop raining for some outside pictures !!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200727/5b7ef1baf4cf61ee76a631d6340aa7e6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200727/94a2a0825520311eb3f2813648fffd5b.jpg)
Post by: heli_madken on July 27, 2020, 04:23:58 PM
Post by: SPR on July 27, 2020, 04:27:05 PM
Wow that looks really nice, are the stripes painted on or decals?
Decals then lacquered over the top
Post by: Rob62 on July 27, 2020, 04:37:04 PM
Post by: Johnny4428 on August 30, 2020, 07:21:12 AM
Post by: gbjeppm on October 18, 2020, 11:18:58 AM
Post by: Bryanj on October 18, 2020, 11:27:23 AM