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Messages - Winterfield
46
« on: May 06, 2019, 11:59:34 PM »
My first goal is to get a rolling chassis going. So I figured I'd start ground up, and get the wheels done. The rims and spokes were in bad condition, so I opted to get new spokes and rims.   Not likely to have any luck unscrewing those nipples, I opted for the quick and dirty route:  ... Like a hot knife through butter. I was also keen to keep cleaning parts myself, sans any blasting capabilities, so I invested in some more wheels for the bench grinder. Satin wheels and polishing mops and compounds. These satin wheels are great, but don't last too long, particularly on hard edges.   This hub has only been cleaned up with a satin wheel. I later polished with 3 polishing mops and made it shine.  Tappet covers are a great example of the cleaning process. 
47
« on: May 06, 2019, 11:51:32 PM »
Now that I've satisfied myself that the spare engine is somewhat salvageable, I moved back onto the frame. I found that the method of having the bike go to sleep with an engine, and wake up without one worked quite well.   Now that the engine was out, everything came off the frame, and the engine was fogged, covered, and hopefully won't rust. I started to mess with options for cleaning parts on the cheap - this one using my wire wheel on the bench grinder. Very efficient, but keep it well away from aluminium.     I suspect that if I put those bolts back into service they'll rust within the week. I am considering attempting some zinc plating myself, but I might just collect everything up and send it off. Here are more parts ready for painting, currently all cleaned using the wire wheel. 
48
« on: March 27, 2019, 10:58:07 PM »
I read that it is possible to get the barrels off if you split the cases, and then unbolt the big ends of the connecting rods. So onto the bench it goes. This is when I should have checked that the sump was emptied before the engine was removed from the bike. It wasn't.  Pictured here: the underside of the top half, with the connecting rod bolts showing. Note also the lovely new oiled bench top finish. If it seems like I'm going on about that, it's because I am. It still stings a bit to have made such a rookie mistake - no doubt one of many.  After getting the barrels off, I was able to extract the pistons. I didn't get any pics of this, but the process involved a small cylinder sized block of wood to protect the piston and sleeves, and a hammer. Some somewhat gentle persuasion and I managed to get the pistons out.  
49
« on: March 27, 2019, 10:43:26 PM »
On to the spare engine. It had the head off, and had likely been sitting like that for some time. No info on why it was in that state, or why it had been taken out of the bike. I wanted to see if I could get the pistons out, with the intention of stripping the engine down and rebuilding it to put back into the bike. It could have been totally minced inside, but I had a working engine so I didn't see I had much to lose. First steps were to try and loosen the pistons by way of soaking them with penetrating oil. I wasn't sure which to use, so I thought I'd experiment and tried motor oil, Halfords penetrating oil, WD40, and machine oil. One for each cylinder.  Left it for a week or so, and hoped to see the oil levels drop as it made its way down past the piston. No noticeable change, and the crank would not turn. I didn't expect that would work, as this would of course require all of the pistons to be freed. Someone recommended that I pour boiling motor oil (!) into the cylinders. The idea is that it heats the piston and sleeve, and while they're expanding/contracting at different rates, the oil makes it down past the pistons. No dice here though. Also tried some heat on the sleeves from a butane torch. I suspect that one of the issues with these approaches is the steel sleeves and the aluminium pistons just disperse the heat through the cylinder fins.
50
« on: March 27, 2019, 10:26:59 PM »
So, back to the bike. Work split into two parts at this stage: getting the engine in the bike started, and attempting to unseize the stuck pistons in the spare engine. After messing with the electrics, continuity tests, checking and sanding the points, I noticed that when I manually actuated the points I would get spark. This lead me to believe that the battery was shot and was not able to turn the starter and supply enough current to charge the coils. Someone with more knowledge might be able to confirm/deny the truth of this. With a new battery, and with no headlight attached, there was enough juice to get it started. At first it would rev very high, then die. I suspect I hadn't tightened the carbs to the airbox, or manifold properly. I eventually got it to idle and was happy that it was a running engine. https://youtu.be/C5RQ_t6lYfQ
51
« on: March 27, 2019, 10:06:10 PM »
52
« on: March 27, 2019, 09:30:48 PM »
Oxford English Dictionary definition of electrickery: "foil-wrapped fuses." 
Is one who practices electrickery known as an elec-gician? or an electrickster?
53
« on: March 27, 2019, 09:23:46 PM »
No pics for me to see either but now I’m replying, the pics show up in the lower previous posts - weird! Anyhoo, at least they have left the strengthening webs in place - if they had been cut through I would have said it was scrap. If you intend using it I would remove any burrs from Roger the bodger’s holes inside and out and leave a little radius on the edges to prevent ‘stress raisers’ where cracks can start. If, however you decide not to use it, I might have a spare but not able to check for a week or so on my return. Unfortunately it too will still have the metalastik bushes in.
Ian
I think for now I'll press on with it (perhaps try to have it repaired somewhere else), at least to make some progress. I would be very happy to take you up on that spare hub when you have a chance to check, thank you.
54
« on: March 27, 2019, 09:21:12 PM »
F me did they try selling you a pound of sausages as well. There are loads of methods to try before resorting to that. No doubt time and cost became a factor. The soggy paper towel method is very effective on blind bearing /bush removal. I was shown this method over 40 years ago and have used it many many times. It even works on broken seloc/roll/spring pins.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggsEewAg2YM
Time and cost did become a factor, as he charged me more because he said they were a pain to get out. Next time I'm going to save my money and give it a go myself. Thanks for that link, something to try for next time.
55
« on: March 27, 2019, 03:43:59 PM »
Welcome to the forum.
We just had someone on here emigrate to Australia, so one in one out keeps the numbers tidy 
Love that Nigel Shame the UK Gov can't work as efficiently as this Forums members 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Funny that both countries have folks very much opposed to immigration. One in one out is probably fairly common. People seem to believe people only emigrate in.
56
« on: March 27, 2019, 03:36:05 PM »
Yup, thanks. I've been using Google Photos - I'll switch to Imgur.
57
« on: March 27, 2019, 03:20:39 PM »
Updated with re-hosted pictures, apologies!
I really wish I had given it a go, but I was worried I'd do more damage than good.
58
« on: March 27, 2019, 09:48:08 AM »
Thanks Trigger.
I have no intention of going back to that shop for any work, paid or unpaid. I had a bunch of other stuff I was going to ask them to do, but I'll show my opinion with my wallet.
My main concern is of the structural weakness of the hub caused by the holes. If it's unlikely to be a concern, I'll find someone to repair the holes and press on with these hubs.
59
« on: March 27, 2019, 08:20:12 AM »
That's what I thought. I could have ruined the hub myself and saved £50.
Any chance of repair?
60
« on: March 26, 2019, 10:38:09 PM »
Thanks to the both of you.
Julie, I've been through every page of your 400/4 engine rebuild thread. Your bike is thing of beauty, and an inspiration.
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