Honda-SOHC

Anybody use Wellseal? There seems to be fors and againsts compared to Hylomar on other bike and car forums. I'm sitting on the fence.

I used a sealant in the olden days that was a thin light brown coloured compound that was slow to dry out - the name Wellseal sounds distantly familiar.

All but one of my clutch plates have a notch marked on them what is the marking for please is it something to do with the assembly my manual does not seem to mention them?



notch marked clutch plate by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

Great video of your rotating wheel - I'm impressed with your own wheel build.

Hi Al,

Yes I am serious about going for gold alloy rims but it's going to be early new year I think before I decide to have them or come to my senses and have silver alloy instead. With my hubs being original  alloy with patina it's a conundrum.

My BiL has recommended Central Alloy so I will speak with Richard nearer the time. Do Central Alloy have the measurements for the original wheel offsets when they build them or do you have to specify?

Cheers
Ted

Welcome home and thanks for starting the forum in the first place!!

I ditto the above plus of course credit to the current forum master & moderator(s).

I must of done thousands of clutches over the years and my tool box has never had a locking tool in it.
All you need is four washers. Put the springs back in place and put 4 x M6 washer that is wider than the spring on the bolts and put the bolts back in. This locks the clutch up to remove the nut with the correct tool and replace the tagged washer 

Thanks Trigger clutch came out a treat tbh I don't think it was very tight so that helped.

Not really done much since I've had the engine running, as the clutch will need to be stripped down & replaced I thought I would see if the casing screws wanted to come out. Removed the brake pedal & kick start for full access - just needed to find out if there were going to come out or not. The plan is/was simple go round getting each one undone then hand tighten ready for when I drain the oil & remove them all.

Tried by hand - got nowhere so got out my Kielder 1/2" drive impact driver with a new long JIS bit fitted via my hex adapter. They have all come out with ease. Only loosened them a few turns then nipped them up by hand ready for oil drain and strip down hopefully over the next few days.

My nightmare experience back in the mid 1960's of removing similar screws on my Honda 250 Dream with a hammer & chisel or drilling them out are now history.  RESULT.

Back in the 1960's I had access to a Tricoethylene Tank at the garage where I worked part time - I used to put engine blocks in it and leave it over the weekend. On a Monday it looked like a brand new part fresh out of the foundry - all bare metal.
 I believe health & safety have pretty much banned them due to carcinogenic issues.

On Nurse Julies 400 project posts she mentions  an acid stripper I'm sure she will tell you the what & where if you PM her.