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Messages - TrickyMicky
316
« on: July 06, 2018, 08:45:43 PM »
Hi there, have just been out to the garage and measured my shox, and they are 320mm between centres. Your query hit a nerve with me because I purchased a pair of replacements of very similar design without checking the length!!!! When fitted, the extra length meant that the rear axle nut fouled the silencer, so instead of calling it a day I managed to re-jig the silencer mounting, (Pillock!). When all this was accomplished everything looked ok until I realised that the rear wheel was only just off the ground when on the stand, and when the bike was taken off the stand it fouled the lower run of the rear chain! Removed, returned to seller for prompt refund, and took my time and eventually found a pattern pair that are a perfect match in size, looks, and capability. Do not fit any that are a different length!!!!!! Regards, Michael.
317
« on: June 28, 2018, 08:38:26 AM »
Make sure there is enough free play in the clutch cable, but only do this when the engine is cold. I've known people to alter the cable adjuster at the handlebar end when out on a ride, because the free play has increased when warm, but next time they go to use the bike from cold, the mechanism has contracted and taken out all of the free play and the clutch is not fully engaged. Keep iy Upright, Michael.
318
« on: June 26, 2018, 11:50:57 AM »
Hi, I'm no expert having never ventured any lower than the cylinder barrel, but bear in mind that even when it's in gear with clutch disengaged and brake applied, the primary chain is still moving. I think I would start with the easier task first and have another go at the carbs. Be lucky.
319
« on: June 15, 2018, 01:23:07 PM »
Hiya,
Had similar problem about 18 months ago, did not possess means or know-how to check if it was alternator, rectifier, or voltage control unit. I'm afraid I took the easy option and replaced the rectifier and control unit with a single "potted" item from Silver's. Managed to concoct a couple of mounting brackets, and placed it where the control unit originally sat, there is enough slack in the wires to the rectifier to pass them through the frame to the left hand side. So far no problems, charging well, original units removed and placed in the Black Museum.
320
« on: May 28, 2018, 09:24:33 PM »
Have owned my 400f for many years now, it's original but not concours. Now that I'm retired I prefer riding it when wife & weather permits!! Whilst I like originality I'm also a realist, and with todays traffic, mirror use is of prime importance, and the standard fare leaves a lot to be desired. Many years ago I blagged a ride on a pal's bike that had Stadium bar-end mirrors fitted, and I thought at the time they were superb. It now transpires that these are still available under the Halcyon name. Not cheap, but British made from Stainless steel. Just wondering if anybody has tried these, and wondering how out of place they would look on a 70's 400f?
321
« on: May 27, 2018, 04:13:25 PM »
Have you tried the very basic approach first? As the engine warms up, the free play in the clutch cable increases, and some people have been known to set the lever with minimal play when the engine is hot, meaning that when it cools you have no play in the cable whatsoever. Set the free play with a cold engine, try this first, much easier than pulling a clutch apart! Be Lucky!
322
« on: May 24, 2018, 12:07:19 PM »
Have always owned Hondas from 1967 up to now. Always used Shell Super Multigrade 20w50 with no problems whatsoever. (Dad worked in a Shell garage!). At present am running 1976 400/4, purchased in 1989, taken off road in 1991 for cam chain etc., rebuilt in 2005. You can't rush these things!!!!! Runs well, have been using Shell Helix 10w40 since then, but about 18 months ago I noticed that they now say that this oil is suitable for petrol and diesel engines. At about the same time when I checked the oil level, it wasn't using any oil, but there is a strong fuel like smell on the dipstick, and also from the base of sponge at the base of the air filter. Rode out with my son following me, he said there was no smoke whatsoever, and the oil level stays constant. At the moment the bike is sitting on the ramp, tank removed, no leak from tap, no leaks from carb overflow pipes, air filter removed, quite clean, sponge removed, stinks like hell, all breather tubes removed, all clear, breather chamber below filter box removed, all clear. Wiped round inside black plastic air chamber, all clean. Does this mean I've got to take those poxy carbs off again? Have bought some ordinary 20w50 mineral multigrade ready to change the oil and filter, bike has only done 1020 mile since last oil change. What am I missing, (apart from a few marbles!!)
P.S. Has anybody ever let the engine breather pipe just vent to the open air, (Smog Specification)?
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