Honda-SOHC
Other Stuff => Misc / Open => Topic started by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 23, 2022, 09:26:04 PM
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I have an insurance cover contract direct with Baxi to cover us in case of breakdown that includes one service a year.. They last serviced it in August 2021 and were booked to do a service last Friday - they cancelled the appointment due to "unforseen circumstance" with a new appointment booked for mid February 2023 I was not a happy bunny.
Last night our boiler shut down with an error code E110 manual says "Safety thermostat or Condensate Safety Float Switch Operated".
Tried reset and boiler ran for 3 minutes & tripped out again. Its a Baxi Bermuda BBU 15HE unit so effectively built into the fireplace with an electric fire at the front.
Contacted Baxi who can come out on the 27th of 28th to get an engineer to look at it. Contacted the firm who fitted the boiler in Sept 2014 they no longer repair Baxis only Worcester Bosch.
Just wrestled the washing macine out of the kitchen unit to check the condensate pipe is not blocked. Sucked out some water so the pipe is clear - had a blow down it as well. Drain connection clean & free at the waste pipe fittong. Tried the reset again so at the moment the boiler is trying to work again - I'm not hopeful.
Currently using three electric fires to keep the ground floor warm - turned up the water bed a couple of degrees. Thank goodness it's mild weather in DErby at the moment.
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Oh dear Ted, that's rough timing.
To think you were talking about the luxury of a heated garage this week ...
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Oh dear Ted, that's rough timing.
To think you were talking about the luxury of a heated garage this week ...
I've had to move the Prem-i-Air tower unit out of the garage into the Hall to keep the spine of the house warm - it's thermostat controlled unit so pretty good. Basic fan heater with thermostatic control to keep the smaller front lounge warm. Rear lounge is where the Baxi unit fireplace is but fire not thermostat controlled just choice of 1/2kw.
Not going to freeze but less than ideal. I can see the leky meter working overtime for a few days.
Thank gawd it's not a heat pump system
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Hope they can get to you and sort something out promptly Ted, at least it's a little warmer than last week to help you cope with restricted temporary platoon of devices.
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Do you get any airlock in system, or need to bleed at any point Ted?
Seems there's possibility if flow is impeded to give this alarm.
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Do you get any airlock in system, or need to bleed at any point Ted?
Seems there's possibility if flow is impeded to give this alarm.
The central heating is a fully pumped system with hot water cylinder & an Immersion heater (we use that in the summer rather than the gas boiler) we have four radiators that have no thermostats the other 6 radiators have thermostatic valves. The highest point in the heating loop is the tall type bathroom towel rail so any air in the system settles there - its free of air.
The error code E110 showed again after a few minutes running this evening - it has since 2014 had two replacement condensate pumps plus the two condensate level switches were replaced under warranty in 2018. I suspect the level switch has failed again.
Thank goodness we have some back up with alternative means of water heating plus electric fires to keep the house warm. Ironically after 10 years without use we gave our SuperServe Gas bottle powered heater away as it took up too much garage space.
Brings into focus how lucky we are compared to the people of Ukraine.
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Very true Ted in regards to others having such difficulties of even basic safety and peace in their lives.
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We run on a kerosene boiler from 1985. Very easy to fix and service, was built before any E fault codes ;)
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We recently replaced the PCB and gas valve (Vaillant) before ironically it turned out to be the HT ignition lead, cost £28. The old one had no continuity when tested with a multimeter! 🤦
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My thoughts of that trauma are with you Ted. We have an oil burner too, no fancy error codes. It was fitted in 1999 in between Xmas and new year, after a festive breakdown. Not going to break in the summer when it’s not used I suppose. As trigger says very easy to repair and maintain.
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We run on a kerosene boiler from 1985. Very easy to fix and service, was built before any E fault codes ;)
Our previous boiler was the old style Baxi Bermuda it replaced a similar previous model in 1987 it never broke down up until we replaced it in 2014 with a more efficient condensing type unit as the old unit was kettling primarily due it being a Primatic hot water tank system. I serviced it myself - it was so easy to clean the heat exchanger etc.
When I have my current unit serviced it is a laptop plug in job - it's gone the same way as cars.
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According to t'interweb it's more likely to be overheating, I Googled this: Baxi Bermuda BBU 15 HE error code e110
This is one example:
"E110 relates to the Boiler hitting its maximum temperature and cutting itself out to stop damage, so its basically overheating, there are several causes for this, its generally a circulation fault so a system blockage, Air lock or faulty pump, in very rare cases it could be the temperature stat in the boiler faulty. If boiler has pressure and there are no obvious pockets of air in system (bleed all radiators) then a Gas Engineer will be required to repair the fault."
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It we are going to talk boilers our 16 yr old Potterton decided to leak this summer, just the right age to buy end of line nos spares, heat exchanger, sideplate, 2 connectors and control box for less tha £500 and my best mate just closed his heating business so cheap labour, thats 1/4the price of a replacement and basicaly new
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According to t'interweb it's more likely to be overheating, I Googled this: Baxi Bermuda BBU 15 HE error code e110
This is one example:
"E110 relates to the Boiler hitting its maximum temperature and cutting itself out to stop damage, so its basically overheating, there are several causes for this, its generally a circulation fault so a system blockage, Air lock or faulty pump, in very rare cases it could be the temperature stat in the boiler faulty. If boiler has pressure and there are no obvious pockets of air in system (bleed all radiators) then a Gas Engineer will be required to repair the fault."
I definetely have no blockages, air locks or a faulty circulation pump - my error code booklet shows E110 is a dual fault code with two causes - excess condensate in the sump as well as overheat of the primary water/safety thermostat. Based on previous history it's more likely to be the condensate pump system.
I can reset the boiler 4 times in a 5 hour period - Ive only reset it twice - each time the radiators have all got hot - LED display on the pump is lit up as it should be - then it stops consistent with the build up of condensate activating like a frozen condensate pipe. Mine is not a high pressure system I have the older fully pumped system with a hot water tank & a 3 way motorised valve.
I will update as & when the Baxi fitter turns up & eat humble pie if it's not the condensate pump/sensor system..
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It we are going to talk boilers our 16 yr old Potterton decided to leak this summer, just the right age to buy end of line nos spares, heat exchanger, sideplate, 2 connectors and control box for less tha £500 and my best mate just closed his heating business so cheap labour, thats 1/4the price of a replacement and basicaly new
Strangely enough I was thinking of doing something similar with our old boiler but the efficiency of the Baxi Condensing boiler is incredible - my gas consumption in the winter fell by over 60% in units of gas used averaged over 4 years on both systems. Had we not had a Primatic type system I might have gone down that route as the capital cost would have been less.
I worked out my gas bill reduction would pay for the current boiler instalation in 8 years so theoretically the system has now paid for itself.
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Baxi Customer Support came this morning - replaced the sump pump - that's 3 pumps since Sept/Oct 2014. Not even 9 winters so if you subtract the house fire that's not a reliable sump pump!
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Baxi Customer Support came this morning - replaced the sump pump - that's 3 pumps since Sept/Oct 2014. Not even 9 winters so if you subtract the house fire that's not a reliable sump pump!
Boiler condensate is quite corrosive, seems the OEM internal pump isn't quite suited...
Maybe fitting an auxiliary tank pump (i.e. Aspen) underneath the device would provide a more reliable solution...
https://www.aspenpumps.com/en/aspen-pumps/boiler-pumps (https://www.aspenpumps.com/en/aspen-pumps/boiler-pumps)
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The boiler has failed overnight error code E110 - I'm thinking they should have replaced the level switch like last time.
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Hi Ted. Sorry only just seen your thread. I have been a Baxi service engineer for years. That fault is almost always the condensate level switch, very rarely it's the condensate pump. You will struggle to keep a good condensate system on that boiler as they are frankly crap. That's a technical term that Baxi wont admit to. You may struggle to fit another type of pump as there is very limited space in there, the existing pump is made to fit that space. Best of luck.
PS. If they come back to change the switch get them to replace both.
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They are back tomorrow to fit the level switch, no option to fit anything else as it's a BBU 15 HE unit - so naff all space as it's a back boiler direct replacement with a dam expensive plastic chimney.
No level switch in stock they had to order one.
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You'd think that if it's common for them to fail they'd have a few in stock, poor service and lack of forethought.
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Frustrating for you Ted, effectively makes that switch a service part just like a filter on vehicle engines if it's life is that short.
Puzzling how something that needs inherent reliability can be so flaky, unless it generates callout income ::) deliberately.
I've worked with systems in industrial application, sumps, clearance stations, return loops etc etc for chemical handling, all of which ultimately needed highest level of reliability.
Often we'd use primary switching then backed by a secondary to give failsafe operation, this linked to some signalling to indicate that the primary switching needed attention.
Completely chemical proof magnetic sensors for level switching, stainless or titanium probe in aggressive chemicals to avoid failure. Sump pumps above sump (to keep it in isolated atmosphere away from corrosive fumes) with one way valve under liquid level such that the pump head always remained without air/lock etc.
Also mag drive pumps on which the chemical pump head used the impeller supported on liquid bearing (effectively no shaft etc) and driven by remote magnetic coupling so no seals whatsoever.
These are pretty routine devices, disappointing that domestic suppliers can make such flaky products and often at appreciable cost.
Industrial quality ranting there ;D
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I find a great many Baxi parts that fail are changed in the new replacement part but carry the same part number. Strangely just like a Honda Delta part. When you ask Baxi, the parts changed but they've never had any problems with it. Make your own minds up. By the way, it's not just Baxi they all do it.
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You'd think that if it's common for them to fail they'd have a few in stock, poor service and lack of forethought.
Typical of the current JIT system that so many firms follow to reduce stocking costs - I was shocked to find that when I worked at Merc Derby they carried no stock for some oil fiters & things like ABS wheel sensors.
Baxi have offered to contribute £75 against receipt for the purchase of electric heaters. That sounds generous on one level - my electricity costs for the total of 6 days without central heating is likely to be at least £110 more than usual less the gas I have not used.
Pleased I took out an Insurance Policy with Baxi themselves as the local firm who fitted my boiler were not interested telling me they now only deal with Worcester-Bosch.
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FMG our heating is back up & running - engineer turned up at 8.00 am as promised left at just gone 9.30 both sump level switches both replaced.
Hopefully sorted for a couple more winters now on sump pump number four counting the original & the third set of level switches.
I dread to think of the learning dip that future heat pump owners will go through not to mention Electric Vehice Owners - I think anyone buying a current EV is in the same place as those Mobile Phone owners with a house brick for a phone - they thought they were so cool.
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FMG our heating is back up & running - engineer turned up at 8.00 am as promised left at just gone 9.30 both sump level switches both replaced.
Hopefully sorted for a couple more winters now on sump pump number four counting the original & the third set of level switches.
Good to hear, comfy house again... (unless you think about gas prices...)
Over here "on the continent" condensing boilers are generally wall mounted models; hence either natural drain, or mentioned tank pumps...
The gripe is mostly due to MFGs stop carrying spares (over new models), like control PCBs...
I dread to think of the learning dip that future heat pump owners will go through...
Dunno working on A2W heat-pumps for quite some time now, they're quite reliable, issues origin mostly on the heating hydraulic inside the house...
And retrofitting old buildings is another issue, often more efficient to have them installing new, vacuum sealed windows...
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The problem here in the UK as a fellow Austrian born in Klagenfurt is that UK homes simply do not have the insulation required.
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The problem here in the UK as a fellow Austrian born in Klagenfurt is that UK homes simply do not have the insulation required.
Well, the castle of my former boss (D.I.Hochegger; RIP) is heated by some I'm responsible for the layout... ;)
https://www.burg-rabenstein.at/burg-rabenstein/
Proves that even rock & stone walls can be heated efficiently...
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Yes a four foot thick castle wall would do the trick - insulation wise.😁😁😁
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True, keeps the heat in BUT takes 6 months to warm up in the first place!
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Nowt wrong with some decent thermal capacity the summer heat will see you through to Autumn f.o.c.
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True, keeps the heat in BUT takes 6 months to warm up in the first place!
Indeed ;D
I think at first that "rock" never came over 12°C during the summer... ;)
Methinks British' castles won't be much different... ;D
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Just when I thought it was all sorted the central heating stopped working this morning no fault code displayed on the boiler just a temperature on the boiler panel saying 32 deg C.
Did the ON/OFF & tried reset trick no change, changed the batteries in the Room Stat - no change.
Started to run out of ideas so as a last resort had a look in the airing cupoard to see if the pump was working its a fancy Grundfos pump with green LED bars on it - everything was flashing on & off.
Switched off the power supply to the controller/programmer then back on - all returned to normal so heating now working.
Advised Baxi by e-mail they are attending on Wednesday.
The pump was new in 2014 our previous Grundfos was over 35 years old and still working but replaced when we had the new boiler.
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Pump replaced this afternoon with another Grundfos unit but different model - smaller impeller I was informed but higher speed with fewer indicator lights on it. The old unit had some sort of built in speeding up & shutting down program iirc.
I would be amazed if it's any better than the old unit but fitter said it was more efficient.
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Pump replaced this afternoon with another Grundfos unit but different model - smaller impeller I was informed but higher speed with fewer indicator lights on it. The old unit had some sort of built in speeding up & shutting down program iirc.
I would be amazed if it's any better than the old unit but fitter said it was more efficient.
They always say that sir!
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If your old pump is more than say 5 years old the new pump will be more efficient. Legislators ensure it has to be. But by what margin I’m unsure. Look on the pump, it probably states IE2 if it exceeds 120w duty.
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I've resurected this old post as last week the boiler stopped working (again) - managed to reset & get it going but decided Baxi ought to have a look at it. They came today by an appointment made last week.
Yesterday wife noticed some paint peeling off the fireplace wall, switched off the heating and reverted to a couple of electric fires. Repair man came today - needs a new condensate tank as it has rotted out causing water to spill into the back of the hearth - hence the damp patch.
Big job as he needs to take the boiler out of the fireplace to fit the new tank - full drain down - if parts are in stock coming on Wednesday to fix it.
I think it's all as a result of our house fire as from 2014-2018 it never faulted .
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Hope you get it sorted Ted. Why do these things always happen January 😧
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Why have I got dragged into this conversation ???? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Had a phone call this evening he has the parts - Baxi Engineer will be starting at 8.00 am - he tells me the manual time is four and a half hours to fit the new condensate tank.
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Why have I got dragged into this conversation ???? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Apologies Keith🤣
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Had a phone call this evening he has the parts - Baxi Engineer will be starting at 8.00 am - he tells me the manual time is four and a half hours to fit the new condensate tank.
That's about the right time Ted, it's a real bitch of a job to do. I hate those modern back boilers, always try to be too busy when one of those pops up. Fortunately Baxi didn't sell many so they don't come up often. One more year to go and I can wave them goodbye for ever.
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Had a phone call this evening he has the parts - Baxi Engineer will be starting at 8.00 am - he tells me the manual time is four and a half hours to fit the new condensate tank.
That's about the right time Ted, it's a real bitch of a job to do. I hate those modern back boilers, always try to be too busy when one of those pops up. Fortunately Baxi didn't sell many so they don't come up often. One more year to go and I can wave them goodbye for ever.
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Yes you know what a difficult task it is Roy - Baxi man says he does not need to remove the upper Granite effect hearth so that will make getting at the unions more difficult. Baxi man says he does not know how to remove it - two man job anyway.
I believe the fireplace surround is basically retained by four bracket & it lifts off looking at some old photos when the builders stripped our house out after the fire. Only the Hearth is stuck down with some sort of adhesive. Hopefully it will be sorted today the house is pretty cold even though its mild outside.
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Big expense as well to change that for a standard wall mounted, plus you then need a new fire and surround.
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As we live in a so called Dorma style bungalow aside from the loft there were few options available for replacing the old lounge back boiler.
I did not want the kitchen to look even smaller by fitting one in there. The BBU was an expensive but easy option.
We have never used the front electric fire, it's an ornament really to cover the boiler plus the black granite fireplace feature made Wendy happy.
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The hardware fitting work has now been done but the boiler is refusing to fire up correctly so a second Baxi engineer is currently helping with the diagnostics..................... ::) ::) ::)
Update:-
It's had a load of new parts including the main heat exchanger & condensate tank assy.
7.5 hours after first arrival & it's sorted.
Thank goodness for boiler insurance that includes servicing a snip at £17.15 pcm on a 9 year old condensing boiler..8) 8) 8)
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I knew it would end up a nightmare for them. Can you see why I avoid doing them, had a few late finishes over the years. Hopefully you will be good for a few years now.
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Just had to put a flow valve into our potterton he15, it had a new ebay one 6 months ago along with heat exchanger but O ring to outlet pipe started leaking and there is no part number plus nobody knows the size!! could only get the baxi one localy at short notice at 3x pattern price
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Boiler stopped working again yesterday fault code E158 - condensate system again.
Fixed this afternoon by Baxi engineer - poor connection on condensate pump.
Baxi Condensing Boiler is 9 years old this year with the current BBU 15 HE (lounge back boiler unit) now out of production.
I suspect getting boiler breakdown/service insurance cover might be unavailable once it's ten years old.
We are limited as to where we can fit a replacement normal condensing boiler as the lounge unit is in the centre of the house using a special plastic double chimney arrangement to draw in fresh air in from the chimney top.
I do not want a boiler unit in either of our upstairs bedrooms or in the bathroom (too small anyway.) The front lounge /room is not really suitable that leaves only the kitchen (major rework)or at a push the downstairs toilet.
Only option I can see would be in the loft but access for servicing is less than ideal not to mention all the pipework being re-routed.
Aside from the price a heat pump would have to be piped from the rear garden through our Conservatory that spans the whole of the rear of our home. We are well insulated - all our Porcelain floors would have to be dug up to fit underfloor heating anywhere.
The future might have to be Night Storage with no doubt a load of re-wiring as a 13 amp socket is probably not good enough.
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sort of still on topic, we had problems with the condensate liquid eating through plastic pipe as it is very acidic. anyway, i came across a product called condensulate in a 10m coil, so no leaky joints
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Father in law had his boiler moved from bedroom to loft about 10 years ago or so. They insisted on good access with a quality fitted ladder. But it worked out fine.
My father had storage heaters. They all had separate 20A switched d/p outlets.
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Our condensate pipe was replaced in 2018 by the contractors following our house fire in Nov 2017.
They fitted a more rigid type of translucent pipe that is routed through the rear of our fireplace into the kitchen waste water system where it is connected by a neat bespoke connector similar to the Speedfit type of unit.
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sort of still on topic, we had problems with the condensate liquid eating through plastic pipe as it is very acidic. anyway, i came across a product called condensulate in a 10m coil, so no leaky joints
Recently had exactly the same problem. The pipe in our house runs behind the plaster board between the kitchen and bathroom. The joints were attacked by the acidic condensate and only found out when a patch appeared on the bathroom wall. The studding and insulation were soaking wet. I’ll check out condensulate,
sounds like the perfect solution.
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sort of still on topic, we had problems with the condensate liquid eating through plastic pipe as it is very acidic. anyway, i came across a product called condensulate in a 10m coil, so no leaky joints
Recently had exactly the same problem. The pipe in our house runs behind the plaster board between the kitchen and bathroom. The joints were attacked by the acidic condensate and only found out when a patch appeared on the bathroom wall. The studding and insulation were soaking wet. I’ll check out condensulate,
sounds like the perfect solution.
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Working in chemical plant, all of the pipes were rigid pvc type, with glued together fittings for terminals, routing etc.
One of the easiest to work with too, just a blade type pipe cutter and all glued joints, highly impervious to high and low pH chemicals and ultra reliable. Absolute doddle to design and install.
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Boiler stopped working again yesterday fault code E158 - condensate system again.
We are limited as to where we can fit a replacement normal condensing boiler as the lounge unit is in the centre of the house using a special plastic double chimney arrangement to draw in fresh air in from the chimney top.
I do not want a boiler unit in either of our upstairs bedrooms or in the bathroom (too small anyway.) The front lounge /room is not really suitable that leaves only the kitchen (major rework)or at a push the downstairs toilet.
Only option I can see would be in the loft but access for servicing is less than ideal not to mention all the pipework being re-routed.
Not sure where your airing cupboard is Ted but a good option can be a Combi in that position. We do plenty of those conversions, it’s pretty standard and works well, only real things to overcome are the gas supply, the flueing and the condense waste.
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Unfortunately our airing cupboard has no space for the boilers due to the slope of the bedroom roof.
Ideally I want to keep my hot water tank & immersion. I'm not keen on mains hot water pressure on my 50 year-old radiator pipes.
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Hi Ted
I think the clue to why you got problems is in the name of the boiler unfortunately, We went for a Vassmaan back in 2019 and its run like a dream ever since and their was only a little difference in the price. Hopefully your get it fixed very soon and be toasty warm ;).
Gromitdog
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Ted. I'm pretty sure all back boilers were finally phased out in 2020 (Hurrah). The Viessmann boilers are reported to be suffering from burner box corrosion, the larger ones have even had a recall/replacement notice that cost the company a lot of money. When you say a bad connection to the condensate pump, was that water or electrics. The pumps on those things are a nightmare, if you have wooden floors you can replace the pump with a decent one. There's not room in a BBU for a better pump so we put them under the floor next to the chimney breast and pipe/wire to there. Obviously the pump needs to be lower than the heat exchanger so that wont work on a concrete floor.
I don't know the layout of your house but there are usually options. Is it a house or bungalow, is it concrete floors, are there laminate/tiled floors everywhere, is there room outside where you could build a small lean-to boiler room, is your chimney on an outside wall etc.
In 30 years as a gas engineer I have never failed to find a way to replace a boiler. An example was a back boiler replacement that we couldn't figure out. In the end the chimney breast (on an outside wall) was opened up and a combi put inside the old chimney then they had a cupboard front fitted. There was a lot of other work to it but that was the jist. Just some ideas for you.
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I believe only Baxi made a condensing boiler to directly replace their famous Baxi Bermuda back boiler item.
When our house was built a Bermuda model was fitted from new in 1967. That first boiler lasted until 1987 when it was replaced with a similar unit with a more modern front gas fire. The boiler sits behind it in the fireplace recess. The second boiler was replaced in 2014 with the current condensing type.
With Baxi boiler life of 20 & 17 years I stuck with Baxi due to a good experience with the brand plus no one else made one that would was a direct replacement. Obviously lost the front gas fire for a modern electric unit due to the special chimney arrangement.
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I agree Roy there must be other options, the local firm that fitted the BBU seemed to think the rear bedroom was the only other viable option.
We have solid concrete floors no wood on the ground floor. The. Kitchen option would mean having our consumer unit moved plus a relocation of Gas Hob & Oven Units.
Our outside walls, one side is our driveway, other side is our neighbours drive. Rear wall has full width Conservatory, front wall is the building line. My worry with the loft is it's a low height as it's a Dorma- Bungalow design. The existing header tanks would struggle to get them raised above the boiler.
The rear bedroom option might be the best of a lousy set of alternatives. Our boiler never faulted for the first 3 years. It's only since our serious fire that the boiler has started faulting.
With a bit of luck we can squeeze another 4 years out of what we have provided the insurance cover is not prohibitive.
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The obvious move is a combi in the attic as you wont have to climb loft ladders to get to it. It's your concrete floors that are the limiting factor. If you don't want want a combi (why wouldn't you) you could remove the expansion tank and fit a pressure vessel fill loop combination then you could use a standard heat only boiler (limited types available and pointless). Or you could use a heat only system boiler which is basically a combi without the hot water facility. The far easiest is the combi in the attic though. Gets rid of the cylinder and header tanks altogether and makes the fitment way easier. Plus any replacement later on are an easy combi swap. Most of your pipes will already be in the attic due to the concrete floors downstairs. You may need to re-run the gas supply in 22mm and install a drain.
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You could fit an Intergas Combi using the tank fed system. That would mitigate the mains pressure issue, which with the concrete floors is definitely a risk factor. We haven’t personally fitted one ourselves but I know other installers have used them in the same circumstances and have really rated them. My business partner is currently in the process of moving house and is seriously considering doing the same. If I’m honest I always dismissed the intergas boilers but having received some really positive feedback I would definitely consider them in the right circumstances, they are very different to a conventional Combi with very few mechanical parts to go wrong. So no personal experience to draw upon but might be worth some research?
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I had a talk with the Intergas sales rep at a demonstration at our suppliers recently and they do look impressive. Never fitted one myself though. Location could still be the big issue.
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Never heard of an Intergas Combi, I will do some research.
The main reason I kept a hot water tank was so I did not have to rely on the boiler for HW. At least on the days when the boiler has been out of action we could use the immersion.
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Ted I'm currently in the middle of renovating my uncles bungalow and he's in the process of replacing an almost new fitted in November baxi 400 heat only boiler for a combi. I can find out what he wants for it if you're interested?
I to live in a dorma bungalow and recently replaced an old crane caviller for a baxi 800 relocated to the loft. A modern combi takes up next to no room.
I think my crane boiler was funding Putin's war effort.
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Hey Mick, long time no see on here. Have you had any of your bikes out recently?
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Been crazy busy and still a bad back but managed to use the guzzi at lest once a week at the moment
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If you are thinking Ted of fully electric, there's some scope there although evaluation for your own preference and situation would be needed.
I grew up in 50s origin house, originally specified with solid fuel boiler in kitchen for hot water only, open fireplace in lounge and no other heating. Frost inside windows on North side in winter with lovely patterns too :) that was my sister's bedroom ;D
Very early 70s removed boiler and installed night storage heating, located off gas mains and so no option there to use anything else, hence choice.
Some consideration as they are not immediately responsive like a wet system, with separate meter for variable tariff a part of the "modernisation" being promoted then .... the all electric age a ? :)
Anyway, remember family conversation of parents and uncles etc as some had gas, baxi etc and memorable for our system having effectively, absolutely NIL maintenance and cost, attendant down time etc. Had large tank in airing cupboard, located centre of house with very low heat loss, heated with emersion also on night tariff, but with supplementary switching to demand IF ever needed to add heat during day for odd eventuality.
Remember the immersion being replaced a couple of times over about a 30 year time period, I eventuality swapped to new tank in early 2000s for my parents, stripped out old galv pipes for hot and old distribution to Bath and kitchen.
You can get water electrical solutions for wet heating now https://www.tradeplumbing.co.uk/electric-boiler-heating-6kw-20400-btu-potterton-gold-94022004.html perhaps a consideration for your circumstances.
Electricity tariff available seems far more adaptive now with systems and suppliers facilitating E car charge through off peak demand smoothing giving advantages in energy cost.
Not as cheap as gas, but offset against gas maintenance, insurance and reliability etc, there's some potential balance to be had.
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Odly enough the mention of Immersion Heaters (IH)- when we moved into our current home in 1984 the IH was replaced when we had a new hot water tank as needed for fully pumped CH.
The new IH failed after 18 months with the next two failing after only 15 months. All top fitted long heaters, they all failed at the bottom tip of the element where it curves back. 4 IH's lasting about 5 years. Just fitted a shorter unit now in year 3.👍
PS We live in a relatively soft water area.
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I had the same growing up experience as K2-K6. Frost on widows, burst water pipes and cold lino. As I said we had storage heaters in 1970. Never had an issue with any (except a problem with a fan that one had) in the 37 years until he died.
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I still have crittle windows at mine and a coal fire at my dad's
Are you saying ice on the inside isn't the norm anymore? ;D We never have hot water as the immersion heater never gets turned on. If you want to relive your youth your welcome to pop in for a brew on a frosty day.
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You namby pambies, used to get snow on the inside window sill when i was a kid!
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Aye, and a farthings worth of tripe fa thy dinner.
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Nope cant stand tripe, food or verbal!
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My folks had Crittal windows in their bungalow with "Everest" secondary double glazing. Think 7-9" gap courtesy of deep window sills. Remember the original 1960s Everest advert by Ted Moult with the falling feather test? Solid fuel boiler by Potterton. Warmest room was the kitchen with an old AGA stove that also heated the HW.
With my heart condition I'm so nesh that my house runs at around the 75 -78 F mark all winter in the daytime. I turn it down overnight to 68 F. I do have a water bed running at 89 F in the winter. If our bedroom drops below 68 F I wake up with Angina.
Our house is so well insulated upstairs that aside from the towel rail in the bathroom we have the bedroom radiators off all the time. Downside is in the summer we have to have all the upstairs windows open as it's often over 80 F upstairs in the summer.
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Central heating stopped working again - boiler does not fire up.
Engineer booked for the 15th April 2024 - I looked at the motorised valve indicator that was not aligned with the H position so using a lump of metal I tapped the main body of the 3 way valve.
The valve position slowly moved to H so the heat is working for now.
The external valve motor unit was replaced a couple of years ago by the Baxi engineer.