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Messages - r1_pete
16
« on: August 06, 2016, 09:03:59 PM »
Can I start...  My K2 has (well will have) Shortened dohc swinging arm and needle bearings. An F1 Engine. K7 Headers and probably Gold star style silencers. Front hub machined for Suzuki discs, and twin twin pot calipers. Dohc forks with the webs machined off and gaters. Painted headlamp and ears. Hump back seat. Disc rear brake. I'll not go on I'll have to leave something for you to spot
17
« on: July 15, 2016, 01:35:36 PM »
Its probably the oil pressure relief valve which is not seated properly, if the engine is left standing dry crap builds up as the oil coating deteriorates, when you run it again the valve lifts off it seat as it should to prevent over pressurizing, the valve then doesn't seat properly and allows oil to bypass all the time, instead of shutting off at low revs.
19
« on: January 29, 2016, 09:46:20 PM »
Thanks Ash, the holes in mine were punched 14mm but had a lip, Ive dressed the lip out and got 9.5mm diameter, result...
Cheers.
Pete.
20
« on: January 29, 2016, 10:08:18 AM »
I've re wired several bikes, and a couple of cars, inc the E Type, and will be doing my 2 750s eventually, so if you need a hand give me a shout.
Have a think about using the DOHC regulator rectifier, it reduces the number of components, and will save you some space.
21
« on: January 29, 2016, 10:04:42 AM »
Cheers Ash,
I think it was Bob I got it from, it is a really nice pressing and much sturdier than the originals, so I thought it worth a punt at about £20, I can get the holes welded up with some discs with a pilot hole in and drill them out at a later date.
23
« on: January 28, 2016, 07:57:37 PM »
I bought a seat base of eBay, in a heavier gauge than original, but, it was cheap as the rubber buffer holes are too big.
I need to do some welding this weekend so was going to correct them, can anyone tell me what diameter they should be?
Its for the rectangular seat to frame buffers, K1/2 etc.
Cheers.
Pete.
24
« on: January 24, 2016, 05:19:47 PM »
He doesn't mention the cheapo universal front mudguard on that Suzuki.....
25
« on: November 18, 2015, 06:05:48 PM »
The fork tops are 28 x 1.5 mm
26
« on: November 18, 2015, 02:45:25 PM »
Does anyone know if a f1 rear wheel would fit into f2 .
Yes, but, the F2 swing arm is wider so you need to mix and match parts as follows: Everything F1 except the following from the F2 Sprocket carrier, this is wider on the F2. The bearing spacer which sits inside the sprocket carrier, is also longer on the F2. The wheel spindle, again is longer. Our builds are very similar we ought to meet up some time.... Cheers. Pete.
27
« on: November 18, 2015, 08:10:33 AM »
Do you mean the fork tube top plug/bolts which hold the spring in? If you don't get a reply sooner I can pop the thread gauge on one tonight and let you know what size it is.
Alternatively a standard M8 bolt is 1.25mm pitch and should mesh correctly if you hold the two threads side by side, just leaves the diameter.
28
« on: November 17, 2015, 03:39:58 PM »
Cool thanks, found them, under W for Wheel, I was looking under S for spokes 
29
« on: November 17, 2015, 12:45:32 PM »
Does anyone know a UK supplier of spoke sets.
I'd like galvanised steel to match the back wheel which is in good order, there seems to be lots of suppliers in the USA at about £35, but postage is expensive.
Cheers.
Pete.
30
« on: November 16, 2015, 08:15:58 AM »
Back wheel is F1, with an F2 sprocket carrier, the F2 swing arm is wider than the F1, and the carrier makes up the difference, twin piston caliper too.
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