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Topics - Ashdowner
31
« on: July 23, 2016, 05:01:52 PM »
Has anyone upgraded any of the lighting to LED? With electronic ignition I am drawing too many amps with the H4 halogen headlight on and see LED's as an energy-saving option but also improve the lighting. If so what have you done and what kit did you use? I've looked on the many websites but find some confusing info and find it hard to identify what bulb to use.
32
« on: July 18, 2016, 07:08:37 PM »
Anyone know where I can get some decent-priced handlebars for my 550K3 ?
33
« on: May 07, 2016, 09:18:45 AM »
Can anyone tell me where I can get these? Can't find them on any of the usual websites (DS, CSNL, Wemoto, ebay)
34
« on: May 04, 2016, 08:54:49 AM »
Can someone please tell me the length of their handlebars from tip to tip (in a straight line not along the bars themselves) and the rise from the clamp? Mine are 70cm from tip to tip and rise about 7cm. They're also quite swept back as the photo shows. Also, can you please tell me how far your throttle switchgear clamp is from the right hand side of the right hand clock? it's back to my cable routing problem because no matter what I do the cables will not go the standard routing. have I got the wrong bars?
35
« on: May 04, 2016, 08:35:24 AM »
Rigged up the vacuum gauges yesterday. The needles on 3 of the gauges are rock steady through the rev range but no matter what I do the gauge on pot 3 fluctuates wildly. Any ideas what disastrous problem I might have? Other things to note is that tickover is still very lumpy (due to pot 3?) and if I try and up the revs with the throttle stop screw and then twist the throttle it races and won't come back to idle unless I turn the screw back. Note I've checked all the cables and they're all as they should be.
36
« on: March 31, 2016, 08:15:11 AM »
Can someone p[lease tell me if both throttle cables route between the forks or outside of the Right hand fork? My push (return) return cable seems to be too short to go between, and consequently the bend to the grip is so tight that it has kinked.
37
« on: March 01, 2016, 08:02:06 PM »
Bought my Honda a year ago off the internet from a bloke in Liverpool. Absolute leap of faith. Got the bike and had a great year on it. Stupidly never checked the VIN number on the frame when it was delivered. Took it for an MOT last week, but didn't get through the first step of identifying the bike because someone had filed the VIN number off before I received it. Delivery to me was two days after it had been MOT'd in Liverpool where the tester obviously hadn't bothered about the missing VIN. Being an honest bloke I rang up the DVLA and asked what to do next. The conversation went.... DVLA - "Do you have a V5 with the VIN number in it?" Me - "yes". DVLA - "Does the engine number match the one on the bike?" Me - "Yes". DVLA - "well get the VIN number in the V5 re-stamped onto the frame". Me - speechless. Anyhow that's what I did and I now have a full MOT and a bike that I assume nobody will doubt it's legitimacy. One can only assume that the DVLA and the police have absolutely no interest in the true identification of a 40 year old bike, but the message is clear - beware what you buy and check the VIN on the bike.
38
« on: March 01, 2016, 07:36:55 PM »
The standard return (B) throttle cable is 83cm long. Therefore it's not long enough to go from the throttle through the forks and instead has to go on the outside of the RH fork before it goes under the tank and down to the carb link. This results in it kinking where it meets the frame under the tank. Does everyone have the same problem?
39
« on: October 12, 2015, 09:41:48 AM »
Decided to change my battery. Will do anything to get my bike to start better. Who has fitted what and how pleased are you with it? Motobatt?
40
« on: October 08, 2015, 08:36:23 PM »
Always had trouble starting my K3 when it's been left any time. However, it starts first time just after the battery has been charged. The battery is less than a year old, and generally registers 12.2v but 12.6v when it's settled down after a charge - which is when it starts no problem. Surely 0.4v can't be the difference between starting and non-starting? It's got the original voltage regulator and rectifier and electronic ignition. Has anyone else experienced this?
41
« on: September 06, 2015, 09:41:44 AM »
Just checked the alternator output on my K3. At with the headlight on (it also has electronic ignition) the most I get on the voltmeter across the battery is 12.8v no matter how much I rev it. Shouldn't it be more than that? The battery is only a year old and has been charged on the optomizer so I think it's ok.
42
« on: August 30, 2015, 06:53:01 PM »
My oil light came on today and wouldn't go off? What's the chances of this being a faulty pressure switch as opposed to a broken oil pump? I haven't yet done any checks like checking the wiring or running it with a tappet cover off to see if oil is getting there. The bike has done 29K and actually runs sweet as a nut above 4000 rpm, but of course that's a short burst cos I don't want to risk any damage.
43
« on: August 14, 2015, 08:44:39 PM »
Has anyone installed an HID headlamp conversion kit on a CB550 and if so would welcome any comments.
44
« on: August 11, 2015, 06:17:06 AM »
The CB550K3 has a little black plastic cover that attaches to the fork and through which the disk runs. I've no idea what it's for but on mine it's missing. Anyone got an idea where I might get one?
45
« on: August 10, 2015, 11:29:12 AM »
I put electronic ignition on my CB550K3. If I run with the headlamp on and have a run that involves a lot of traffic and not much revving I find that the battery power gets pretty depleted by the time I'm home. The battery is recent and with the optimiser I'm sure it's in good condition. Anybody else noticed this?
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